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  • #16
    <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by O2Bsogood:
    You guys sure it's just not the battery being weak from the cold, when the weather is in the 20's my car is slow cranking and when it's below 20 it sometimes takes a couple times to start it. And everytime my battery is weak or if I'm reconecting my battery it'll make that clicking noise. I'm thinking it is just the cold causing the battery to be weak, and the door ajar bell is using what little juice that the battery has.<hr></blockquote>

    i dunno, i think its the door switch cause even tho the battery is cold, as soon as the clicking noise stops, and i can actually crank the car, it cranks at normal speed and starts right up.

    if the battery was weak from the cold, im thinkin it would crank slower.

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    • #17
      where is this door thing located?
      96 Camaro 3.8 A4 Basemodel: 8 mm wires, Shift Kit, Hollowed <br />Cat(o2 sims), RKSport exhaust, IAT 5.6K resistor, Home Depot CAI<br />&gt;&gt;&gt;15.375 @ 89.27&lt;&lt;&lt;NEW BEST TIME <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/552491\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/552491</a>

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      • #18
        i have a 96 camaro and i have the same problem. my car has even stalled out on me at stop lights on cold days. this must be a common problem for the 96's.

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        • #19
          Can't help you solve your problem. Just wanted to confirm that this happens to me every winter when it does get cold out. My car is a 96 as well. Are 96's funky or what?

          BTW mine only does this when it gets wicked cold out. Like under 10*F. The car even does this with a good battery.

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          • #20
            Aite guys, i guess its 96's only.

            BUT, do this:

            Next time you open your door and get the clicking noise, notice that there is no dome light on or anything.

            If you get the opportunity, while the thing is clicking, hit the door switch in a few times with your finger. (door switch is under the fuse box i think). See if that stops the clicking at all.

            Ill try it today, when i go out to my car. It was cold as death last night, so hopefully it does it.

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            • #21
              yeah its obviously a 96 thing but i dont mind much because i was reading this cat statistic thing and the 96 chevrolets were said to be the most reliable cars ever built. my 96 133,000 still kicken. a friends 96 pickup that lets just say he has 23 tickets and a posi rearend. still runs like a champ. 96s are awesome all except for the...TICKING. guys lets check and re plug-in our fuses and things. itll take all of us to figure this out. i will go to chevy to see if they are familiar with this problem.
              96 Camaro 3.8 A4 Basemodel: 8 mm wires, Shift Kit, Hollowed <br />Cat(o2 sims), RKSport exhaust, IAT 5.6K resistor, Home Depot CAI<br />&gt;&gt;&gt;15.375 @ 89.27&lt;&lt;&lt;NEW BEST TIME <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/552491\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/552491</a>

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              • #22
                FIGURED IT OUT
                It is the Integrated Body Control Module located behind the glove box. I took IBMC out of its place and plugged it back in outside of the dash. I noticed that it does it when I start my car everytime but was only one or two ticks and didn't notice it. It is definitely the IBMC making the ticking noice and its not the connection(it's in the little box-like units on the little computer board)and at the dealership it costs 208.68 brand new and if you ask for a discount you can get it for $189. I checked at a junkyard and they are $75 at a junkyard. I was going to buy one but forgot my license and didn't have the cash. If you get one from teh junkyard make sure they gaurantee it for a minimum of a month. And yes the 96 is the only ones with this type of module. There are two types for the 96s though. One for cars with remote door locks(code: AUO) or without. Price is the same. Same for Fbird and camaro. Good bye tick ticks= goodbye $$

                Step 1. Unscrew 3 screws under the glove box and remove it.
                Step 2. Pull out plastic plug things from insulated cover that usually sits over your feet and remove it.
                Step 3. Lay seat back and lay upside down and backwards then you will see this black box about 5in by 6in and 2 in thick w/one white plug(w/two clips)and one plack plug(or two if you have remote door locks.) Un plug these no need to label them.
                Step 4. Pull out IBCM box. Only wires connected you have already unplugged and the IBCM box is like clipped in, you'll see. Take box out and buy a new one. I'm not sure if you get the black box or just the electrical board inside it.
                Replace with new IBCM using steps 1-4 backwards. Self explanitory but for those that don't know much about cars the steps are for their sake. Its very simple and you'll need a small socket(for glovebox screws) and a flathead screwdriver for interior plug screw things and one plug clip.
                I haven't replaced mine yet but will tomorrow. I'm 99.9% positive this is it because you would be replacing the thing that's ticking. The 0.01% of not being sure is because i haven't finished it yet. Will post as soon as I'm done.

                Note to self: WARNING! Do not pull plug in direction of eye. I was pulling the black pulg and had a hard time. Pulled harder and harder and finally it came out. Put my hand right into my face and gave yours truly an almost black eye.
                96 Camaro 3.8 A4 Basemodel: 8 mm wires, Shift Kit, Hollowed <br />Cat(o2 sims), RKSport exhaust, IAT 5.6K resistor, Home Depot CAI<br />&gt;&gt;&gt;15.375 @ 89.27&lt;&lt;&lt;NEW BEST TIME <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/552491\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/552491</a>

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                • #23
                  <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by O2Bsogood:
                  You guys sure it's just not the battery being weak from the cold, when the weather is in the 20's my car is slow cranking and when it's below 20 it sometimes takes a couple times to start it. And everytime my battery is weak or if I'm reconecting my battery it'll make that clicking noise. I'm thinking it is just the cold causing the battery to be weak, and the door ajar bell is using what little juice that the battery has.<hr></blockquote>

                  No, that's what I thought it was, so I bought a new battery. Still does it in the severe cold.
                  1996 Hunter Green Chevrolet Camaro A4 Y87 - 3.8 Series II V6 (200k and still going strong)<br />Flowmaster 80 Series Muffler, SLP Cold Air Intake

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                  • #24
                    <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Die Ford V8:
                    FIGURED IT OUT
                    It is the Integrated Body Control Module located behind the glove box. I took IBMC out of its place and plugged it back in outside of the dash. I noticed that it does it when I start my car everytime but was only one or two ticks and didn't notice it. It is definitely the IBMC making the ticking noice and its not the connection(it's in the little box-like units on the little computer board)and at the dealership it costs 208.68 brand new and if you ask for a discount you can get it for $189. I checked at a junkyard and they are $75 at a junkyard. I was going to buy one but forgot my license and didn't have the cash. If you get one from teh junkyard make sure they gaurantee it for a minimum of a month. And yes the 96 is the only ones with this type of module. There are two types for the 96s though. One for cars with remote door locks(code: AUO) or without. Price is the same. Same for Fbird and camaro. Good bye tick ticks= goodbye $$

                    Step 1. Unscrew 3 screws under the glove box and remove it.
                    Step 2. Pull out plastic plug things from insulated cover that usually sits over your feet and remove it.
                    Step 3. Lay seat back and lay upside down and backwards then you will see this black box about 5in by 6in and 2 in thick w/one white plug(w/two clips)and one plack plug(or two if you have remote door locks.) Un plug these no need to label them.
                    Step 4. Pull out IBCM box. Only wires connected you have already unplugged and the IBCM box is like clipped in, you'll see. Take box out and buy a new one. I'm not sure if you get the black box or just the electrical board inside it.
                    Replace with new IBCM using steps 1-4 backwards. Self explanitory but for those that don't know much about cars the steps are for their sake. Its very simple and you'll need a small socket(for glovebox screws) and a flathead screwdriver for interior plug screw things and one plug clip.
                    I haven't replaced mine yet but will tomorrow. I'm 99.9% positive this is it because you would be replacing the thing that's ticking. The 0.01% of not being sure is because i haven't finished it yet. Will post as soon as I'm done.

                    Note to self: WARNING! Do not pull plug in direction of eye. I was pulling the black pulg and had a hard time. Pulled harder and harder and finally it came out. Put my hand right into my face and gave yours truly an almost black eye.
                    <hr></blockquote>

                    Excellent! I tried to get my car to do it today, but it started normally.

                    If i have a problem with it again, maybe i will replace it.

                    But here is my question:

                    You said only 96's have this IBCM. Whats to stop a junkyard one from doing the same thing eventually? What is the IBCM used for, and is there a way to bypass or reset it when the car wont start?

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      I have no clue but I'm sure if the junkyard one doesn't tick already it won't later. Test it before you leave the junkyard too. EVERYONE LIST THEIR MILEAGE. mine started around 100,000 miles and not sure if it needs to be reset or even can be reset. I'll ask around to find out though. When I pulled mine out the wire(you know how they are bent one direction and fling back if you don't hold on to it) when the circuit board was out of the box and hit the other set of wires. something made a tick noise once under the dash and now the little thing clicks every 20 seconds. Still works fine, but ya. I tried to go to the bank to get money to buy an IBCM but it was closed. Guess I'll have to wait till tuesday.
                      96 Camaro 3.8 A4 Basemodel: 8 mm wires, Shift Kit, Hollowed <br />Cat(o2 sims), RKSport exhaust, IAT 5.6K resistor, Home Depot CAI<br />&gt;&gt;&gt;15.375 @ 89.27&lt;&lt;&lt;NEW BEST TIME <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/552491\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/552491</a>

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                      • #26
                        the relays within the BCM are more than likely going bad, or at least that was always my theory.
                        White 1998 Firebird M5, Suncoast WS6 hood, Chrome 18\" C5\'s, beaver tail wing, 2 15\" Kicker Comp VR\'s, ect.

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                        • #27
                          This is the first winter ive had my car, but i only JUST hit 70,000 miles.

                          Lemme know if you get any problems with the new one you got. If the IBCM happens to act up again on me, and really pisses me off or leaves me stranded somewhere, ill replace it.

                          Until then, i can see spending $75 on a unit to just get rid of the very intermittant problem and the clicking noise.

                          Thanks for the great info tho.

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                          • #28
                            CRAP!!!! I went to the junkyard and they sold their last IBCM an hour before i got their. the only other one the guy could find was in southern california. with shipping and all it would be around $110, but since they cant guarantee it i will only go with a new one. Im trying to get ahold of one of the guys on this forum to see if he has one but he hasn't gotten back to me yet. Goodbye $210 :( My IBCM now clicks like nothing else. I will have to get one soon and pray this one holds up.

                            Does anyone have any ideas what could cause these to go bad or is it just the product itself that sucks.
                            96 Camaro 3.8 A4 Basemodel: 8 mm wires, Shift Kit, Hollowed <br />Cat(o2 sims), RKSport exhaust, IAT 5.6K resistor, Home Depot CAI<br />&gt;&gt;&gt;15.375 @ 89.27&lt;&lt;&lt;NEW BEST TIME <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/552491\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/552491</a>

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                            • #29
                              i really want to send an email to GM with a link to this thread and explain the problem.

                              If it isnt a recall, it probably should be for the 96's.

                              Waddya think?

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                              • #30
                                TOTALLY A RECALL. :mad:
                                My friends 96 camaro did the same thing and his was a z28(not sure if there is an IBCM difference but...) try to get everyone that has these problems to post. Ill see what I can do as far as talking to GM. do what you can and I hope this idea pulls through. Good luck. [img]graemlins/dunce.gif[/img]
                                96 Camaro 3.8 A4 Basemodel: 8 mm wires, Shift Kit, Hollowed <br />Cat(o2 sims), RKSport exhaust, IAT 5.6K resistor, Home Depot CAI<br />&gt;&gt;&gt;15.375 @ 89.27&lt;&lt;&lt;NEW BEST TIME <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/552491\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/552491</a>

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