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changed the fluid and everything, and changed the thermo, and my car STILL takes forever to warm up... im talking 15-20 minutes of driving to get some heat.. what the heck is going on here?
there is a 195 thermo in it, same one that came out
edit* oh yeah, and i just want to say how DUMB it is to have the coolant resivore under the battery, now all of my radio presets are gone, and i almost stalled my car out 10 times while driving
What about that thing that opens and closes the line to the heater, maybe its bypassing the thermo. Sorry dont know what its called. But just a guess, sorry.
EDIT: Wait, you're trying to get it to get warmer? So your car's not warming up? Air in the system would make it warm up faster, my bad. As for the coolant reservoir thing, just don't spill it and you'll be fine :P A funnel can be your best friend. Perhaps your sensor is bad and that 15-20 min is really when it's getting up around 210ish, or even close to overheating?
What about that thing that opens and closes the line to the heater, maybe its bypassing the thermo. Sorry dont know what its called. But just a guess, sorry.
i thouht that the fluid went through the heater core 100% of the time?
i thouht that the fluid went through the heater core 100% of the time?
maybe not for our cars, but i know some others do
Didnt know that, but its the continous flow that matters. Ive had plenty of cars that overheated and I just turned on the heat and the temp went down. My 3rd gen bypassed the core completly and it took about 10 min to warm, and that was a V8!
Didnt know that, but its the continous flow that matters. Ive had plenty of cars that overheated and I just turned on the heat and the temp went down. My 3rd gen bypassed the core completly and it took about 10 min to warm, and that was a V8!
this is true, turning the heat on will take heat out of the coolant, which cools it down.
you can also turn the ac on if your car starts to overheat because it turns the fan on
im talking 15-20 minutes of driving to get some heat
So, what exactly do you mean by this?
15-20 mins before:
your temp gauge begins to move?
or
you get to full temp (210F)?
or
you can feel any heat from heater?
or
something else???
Typically, on a cool day (approx 40F degrees), my FB will take 10 mins of driving before it peaks at about 180F(or thereabouts). It will not reach full temp of 210F unless its above 70F outside, and even then it takes quite a while to get there. But on that cool day, my heater will start blowing warm air into the cabin in about 3 mins and the temp gauge has just started to move up scale.
Now Playing: \'99 Pewter Firebird, stock, bone stock, and nothing but stock, so help me God!<br />Comming attractions: K&N Filter, Lid Mod, Intake Bellows Smooth Pipe Mod.<br />I dream about: Forced Induction (TC or SC) or NOX (or both!)
15-20 mins before:
your temp gauge begins to move?
or
you get to full temp (210F)?
or
you can feel any heat from heater?
or
something else???
Typically, on a cool day (approx 40F degrees), my FB will take 10 mins of driving before it peaks at about 180F(or thereabouts). It will not reach full temp of 210F unless its above 70F outside, and even then it takes quite a while to get there. But on that cool day, my heater will start blowing warm air into the cabin in about 3 mins and the temp gauge has just started to move up scale.
well, my car has never reached full temp, during summer days, it will go a little bit above the line between 160 and 210.. winter it will be between that line, and 160
but it usually takes that amount of time driving to begin to get warm air, it really sucks, because i have no rear defrosters, and it takes forever for the back window to become see through.
when it gets really cold outside (single digits) i will let my car idle for like 10 minutes and it will take up to 30min of driving for me to feel comfortable in my car... yes i know having it idle for that long is bad.
this is true, turning the heat on will take heat out of the coolant, which cools it down.
you can also turn the ac on if your car starts to overheat because it turns the fan on
You wouldn't want to turn the AC on while overheating. It engages the AC compressor, putting more of a load on the motor, creating even more heat. If the engine is overheating, the fan is already on.
You wouldn't want to turn the AC on while overheating. It engages the AC compressor, putting more of a load on the motor, creating even more heat. If the engine is overheating, the fan is already on.
turning on the ac turns the fans on. and if the motor is to hot the ac will never kick in...
if you have no heat you heater core my be cloged
that lets coolent pass though around the motor and it take forever for my car to warm up with the heater core blocked off
take the line off and put some high PSI water through them
www.turbov6camaro.com 1997 3800 Series II Camaro 4600 Stall for my ride to the mall :chug: 7.18 @ 99.77 1/8 -1.8x sixty (current quickest v6 fbod) 11.23 @ unk 5 1/4 - 7.19 1/8 - 1.83 sixty
You wouldn't want to turn the AC on while overheating. It engages the AC compressor, putting more of a load on the motor, creating even more heat. If the engine is overheating, the fan is already on.
well, when it is 95 degrees out, im not going to be driving with my heat blasting on me, when just turning the ac on will allow the second fan to turn on and help the cooling MUCH better than only one can
Sounds like your heater core is plugged or restricted.
Forget the pressure wash thing.
What I would do is disconnect the two hoses that lead to the heater. Put one in an empty bucket and then pour boiling water through the other hose. Have someone in the car turn on the fan and check to see if it is blowing hot air. At the same time that your pouring in the boiling water, take note of the amount of water dumping into the bucket from the other hose. It should drain as fast as you pour it in. If your not getting hot air or the water doesn;t drain out quickly, then I would say that your have a restriction in the heater core.
The best way to cure a restricted or plugged heater core is to outright replace it with a new or rebuilt core.
Now Playing: \'99 Pewter Firebird, stock, bone stock, and nothing but stock, so help me God!<br />Comming attractions: K&N Filter, Lid Mod, Intake Bellows Smooth Pipe Mod.<br />I dream about: Forced Induction (TC or SC) or NOX (or both!)
Sounds like your heater core is plugged or restricted.
Forget the pressure wash thing.
What I would do is disconnect the two hoses that lead to the heater. Put one in an empty bucket and then pour boiling water through the other hose. Have someone in the car turn on the fan and check to see if it is blowing hot air. At the same time that your pouring in the boiling water, take note of the amount of water dumping into the bucket from the other hose. It should drain as fast as you pour it in. If your not getting hot air or the water doesn;t drain out quickly, then I would say that your have a restriction in the heater core.
The best way to cure a restricted or plugged heater core is to outright replace it with a new or rebuilt core.
well, it still takes forever for the temp gauge to move also.. like in my dads car, it will be over 140F after a block of driving, while my car takes 15min for it to get over 160f
Still trying to find oil leak on my Camaro, it’s a tough one. I think it is the oil pressure sender myself. Leaking when raving and going into boost....
3 days ago
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