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Will a suitable chasis ground be sufficient? Do I need someone to be cranking the car, or will it be sufficiently charged with the key just in the on position?
Thanks for the tips. Why would you need to be grabbing the prongs at all? Wouldn't just touching the multimeter contact pin to the prong be sufficient?
You could also use a sparkplug tester. They are around 10 bucks. Pull the fuse for the fuel pump. Attach the number 1 wire to the tester. Its basically a sparkplug with a clip on it. Clip it to a ground. have a budy crank the car and look for a spark. Go down and check each wire. Which ever coil pack is not firing is the bad one. If you want to check your ignition module(the plate the coils sit on), move the bad coil to a diff position and recheck each wire with the sparkplug tester. If more wires don't produce a spark, then your module is bad as well.
You could also use a sparkplug tester. They are around 10 bucks. Pull the fuse for the fuel pump. Attach the number 1 wire to the tester. Its basically a sparkplug with a clip on it. Clip it to a ground. have a budy crank the car and look for a spark. Go down and check each wire. Which ever coil pack is not firing is the bad one. If you want to check your ignition module(the plate the coils sit on), move the bad coil to a diff position and recheck each wire with the sparkplug tester. If more wires don't produce a spark, then your module is bad as well.
when doing this test its also a good idea to run a compression test as everything will be all set.
Visually it appears that all coils are firing in order just fine. I'll try and pick up a spark plug tester as well. Since it looks like the coils are firing fine, then no spark from the plug tester would indicate a bad wire right? Which could then be checked by using a different wire on the same coil post and seeing if it is the wire or the coil right?
Alright, today I stopped by Advance Auto Parts after work to check and see what the SES code that was actually being thrown. Since I was receiving the P0300 code before I replaced the bad Ignition Coil. Since the problem was still occuring I assumed that it was the same code. Unfortunately it isn't. This time the code being thrown is P0420, which has to do with a bad catalytic efficiency in bank 1, or something along those lines.
Is there any way to take care of this without having to replace the Cat, since they are so damn expensive?
They aren't that expensive. I replaced the cat on my 99 Firebird with a generic one from Advance. The total with the 3" to 2.5" adapter was around $100 which is lot better than $235 for the "assembly". I cut the old cat off before the hanger by the tranny and welded a little stub piece to the old pipe so I'd have something the clamp the rear of the cat to. You could probably attach the rear of the cat to the pipe in several different ways but that seemed the easiest to me. Just for a laugh I called the local Mienke to see what they wanted to do the job... a little over $900 with the sales tax. So when I say it's not that expensive I guess it's all relative.
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