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for your computer to reset after the battery is disconnected. I went to get my emissions testing done, and they kinda failed me because my computer was still in a reset mode or something.
and is there a way to know when it has reset for sure? i have a engine scanner, and i cant tell how they knew
i work for the emmisions testing company here in az
was your car obd not ready or where there codes and you failed?
by the way i work at the 40th st & greenway rd. location
this is generic but it might work for you oh and you shouldnt need 3 drive cycles just 1
The OBD-II drive cycle begins with a cold start (coolant temperature below 122 degrees F and the coolant and air temperature sensors within 11 degrees of one another).
NOTE: The ignition key must not be on prior to the cold start otherwise the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
1. As soon as the engine starts, idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defrost on. OBD-II checks oxygen sensor heater circuits, air pump and EVAP purge.
2. Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle. OBD-II checks for ignition misfire, fuel trim and canister purge.
3. Hold at a steady state speed of 55 mph for three minutes. OBD-II monitors EGR, air pump, O2 sensors and canister purge.
4. Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch. OBD-II checks EGR and purge functions.
5. Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at half throttle. OBD-II checks misfire, fuel trim and purge again.
6. Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes. OBD-II monitors catalytic converter efficiency, misfire, EGR, fuel trim, oxygen sensors and purge functions.
7. Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking. OBD-II makes a final check of EGR and canister purge.
thanks yeah my car was obd not ready, so they didnt really pass or fail me.
im pretty sure half of why it's taking so long for the computer to reset is because my speedo is messed up, says im at 30mph when im doing 80 haha
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