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Hi guys, the last couple weeks when I put the key in the ignition, the security light comes on and I can't start the car! I have to wait like 5 min for it to disable itself, has this happened to anyone? Why does it only happen every once in a while? Has it do do with the cold temp outside? This has only happened since winter...
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<a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=401701\" target=\"_blank\">3.4L Red Firebird</a> -
When I got a new set of keys made, they weren't done right, so they threw that code up all the time and I couldnt start my car. Are your keys the originals? Or are they duplicates? I'd make an extra of your good key and use that, but they are exspensive to buy ;( like 20-30 bucksRedLineVSix <br />95 Patriot Red Trans Am, M6, 3.42\'s,no rear tires<br />(SOLD!)97 Silver Camaro 3.8 Liter A4 3.42 + LSD, 1pc DS, and one messed up speedo :) -
Looks to be original, has some scuffs on the plastic chip bit, mabey thats the problem?<a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=401701\" target=\"_blank\">3.4L Red Firebird</a>Comment
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well it has been happening to me recently. It does it about 2 out of 10 times i put the key in. My guess is that i put in the key too quick and try to start it fast, or i just odnt push it in all the way. This happened to me a year ago and the problem got worst. The diagnostic i got was that a wire in the ignition cylinder was cut and that the security feature would stop u from turing the car on. It will get worst, next thing that will happen is that when u start it the security light will either stay on or blink. Mine did that for about a year untiil I got it fixed over the summer. The ignition cylinder was $55 and two keys $60 plus $65 to check out of the dealer. I got my friend to fix it for $100 so I saved around 250 becuase the dealership will charge u like 450 dollars. The best thing to do right now is try and get new keys and make sure ur cylinder is clean, if the problem gets worst, do what I did to fix it.
I hope that this security thing that is happenign to me again doesnt get worst. good luck man.2005 Chevrolet Corvette C6 <br />M6, Magnaflow\'s 14336<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/v6purplebird\" target=\"_blank\">C6 Pics</a><br /><br />Old car:<br />1996 Firebird A4<br />SLP Cold Air Intake<br />Magnaflow Catback Exhaust<br />Magnaflow Catalytic Converter<br /><br />George Mason University<br />CEIE Major<br />Pi Kappa Alpha<br /><br /><a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/nsolano\" target=\"_blank\">Firebird Pics </a>Comment
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mine did this a few times but hasn't done it since.2005 Cavalier LS Sport M5<br /> <a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/firefighter8615\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cardomain.com/firefighter8615</a>Comment
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1. dirty key
2. master ignition lock cylinder is faulty
Had this fixed under factory warranty [img]smile.gif[/img] but I heard it's a $400 repair if done by the dealership w/o warranty. :(Comment
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No No No No No! I had the same problem with mine, and assumed that it was the key going bad. Incorrect assuption and it cost me 27 bucks for a new key. The PASS KeyII ignition switch has two contact points inside that touch the chip on the key. On the back side of the switch is a tiny openeing where two white wires run into the switch and go to the contacts. One of your wires is only hangin on by thread. Everytime you turn the switch, the broken wire is prolly barely touching and still working, but ocassionaly it doesn't have enough contact to make a complete circuit. The way PASS KeyII works is that your ignition key has a resistor chip in it and your switch measures the resistance. If the resistance is incorrect, the car wont start. I don't know if that is due to the ignition switch or if it is due to the computer or what. Anyway, here's a picture of my previous ignition switch. http://speed.supercars.net/avatars/17878.jpg You can see where the broken wire was, it snapped down in a recessed area of the switch. I took a X-ACTO knife and stripped the broken wire down in the recessed area and then stripped the othere end of the boken wire, and filled the recess with super glue ans pushed the two stripped ends together. After it set, I checked with an OHM Meter to see if contact was being made around the whole switch. Tadaa. It worked. So now I have a spare. It's VAT 4, just incase your curious. The list price on a new ignition switch is 56 dollars from the shop that replaced mine. The Ignition Switch, Master Key, two Ignition Keys, and all the labor was 276 dollars. Waaay too much in my opinion, they charged for testing the switch after they installed it. Anyway, that's my story, anybody feel free to correct my if I made a mistake about the way PASS Key works or whatever, cause I've been typing a long time and who knows.
[ January 07, 2003: Message edited by: silvachris1 ]</p>~Chris<br />1999 Hugger Orange Camaro<br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/ride/273836\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/ride/273836</a> <br /><br />†…faith…hopeComment
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if you want to get rid of the security feater all together... go here... i havnt tried it but it tells u how to work around it... so that remote start systems will work....
http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/fbody/alarm.htm
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