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  • #16
    Re: vibration

    i replaced the tps sensor last night and it didn't make any difference, the vibration is still there.

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    • #17
      Re: vibration

      I had the exact same problem on my 97 3.8, I replaced both motor mounts and it took care of the problem. I know it's a different motor, but hopefully it will help you somewhat. Changing the mounts wasn't really that bad on the 3.8... the drivers side took no more than an hour and a half, and that was taking my time. The passenger side took me about 5 hours working by myself, but it was my first experience with anything of this nature and I'm sure it wouldn't be as bad the second time around. If you have any questions at all don't hesitate to ask, I'll do what I can to help. Good luck :)

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      • #18
        Re: vibration

        how do check the motor mounts to see if they are bad

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        • #19
          Re: vibration

          Honestly, I never could find a way to really check mine untill I had them off of the car. To me, the bad ones looked exactly like the good ones I replaced them with when they were actually on the car, but upon taking them off I could feel the rubber within the mounts and it was extremely tough feeling, with no real give at all. The ones that went back on had a more cushioned feel, honestly that is the only real difference I could tell. However, the second I started the car the difference was night and day... in a good way. There may be somebody else with some more useful information for you though, hopefully they will chime in.

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          • #20
            Re: vibration

            can you give me any tips what to look for when replacing the motor mounts?
            i really appreciate your help.

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            • #21
              Re: vibration

              I've never actually done this to a 3.4 engine, so I can't say as this method will work the best for you or not, I'm sorry. However, here is the procedure I took in replacing mine...

              1. Get the car up on ramps/jackstands/lift - whatever you're able to use safely.

              2. If the motor has been running long at all, then let it just sit for about 30 minutes to an hour before starting to work... that y pipe will burn. lol.

              3. Take a jack and a peice of wood that is larger than the base of your oil pan, and line the jack/board up with the lowest part of your oil pan and gently jack it up. Watch very closely as you do this and make sure nothing is going to bend or seem the least bit strained. Some may discourage this method, I don't know - I couldn't find any other way with the means I had to work with to do this. I can say that in my experience, nothing was hurt on my car and it worked flawlessly - but take your time and note the situation, there may be a better way to lift the motor a little bit and relieve tension from the motor mounts. Good luck

              4. You shouldn't have to move the motor up much at all, maybe 1/2" if that. With this done, it's time to start removing one of the mounts. I removed the passenger side first, it took the longest amount of time, but they both have to come off anyway. You should be able to look around the base of the mount and see 3 bolts holding it to the car itself. I forget the exact size, I want to say it was between a 14 - 18mm. The two bolts that are farthest from the front of the car weren't bad to get out at all. However, the bolt on the front was a pain. If I remember correctly I actually had to come in from the top of the car with a series of extensions and loosen it that way.

              5. With the 3 bolts loosened, there will only be one long bolt left that runs through the mount and the engine itself. It will be a long bolt, and on the end of it there will be a nut that holds everything tight. Take two wrenches (can't remember sizes) and start loosening the nut on the end with one wrench, while holding the end of the bolt in place with the other.

              6. With the nut off, you're about to begin the most aggravating part of this process. In my experience, the bolt would not slide out of the mount without having to unbolt the A/C compressor and move it forward about 2-3" to make room to slide out the bolt. This isn't really difficult, though if you have a friend or relative who could help you out this is the time to have them. Go up top and remove your serpentine belt from the front of the motor, and unplug any sensors on the compressor and set them safely out of the way. Unbolt the AC compressor from the motor and gently push it forward, be careful to not harm any of the lines, though in my experience they seemed very sturdy and allowed me to move the compressor enough to work the bolt out of the mount.

              7. With the bolt remooved, you should now have the passenger side mount off. Take it and do what you will with it, I was tempted to just hurl it across my driveway when I finally got the thing out, but I wouldn't recommend it.

              8. The new mount should go in smoothly and in the reverse process of what you just did. My advice - Put the long bolt/nut through the mount and the engine BEFORE you bolt the mount on to the car. I failed to recognize this crucial step in time, and had quite a time with it.... With the bolt slid through and the nut tightened back up, gently lower the jack holding the motor until the mount rests in place on the car. It should actually line up near perfect, if not you may need to gently raise the engine a very slight bit to adjust the mount and start each of the 3 bolts back in slightly, then lower the motor and tighten the three bolts down.

              9. With the mount fastened back in place, bolt the A/C compressor back to the motor, plug appropriate sensors back into place, and put the belt back on the pullies.

              10. Jack the engine back up about 1/2" or so, before beginning on the drivers side mount.

              11. The drivers side mount was cake. The procedure is exactly the same as the passenger side, except it's much easier accessed. You should see all 3 bolts holding the mount to the car, and access them relatively easily. Unbolt them.

              12. Using the two wrench method, remove the nut from the drivers side mount bolt, and slide the bolt out of the mount. This should have the drivers side mount off of the motor.

              13. Take your new mount and slide the bolt through the mount/motor and fasten the nut back in place.

              14. Tighten down the 3 bolts holding the motor to the car, and gently release the pressure on the jack.

              15. After all of your tools are picked up, cleaned, and stored away - sit down and turn the key and hopefully see the the vibration is out of the car

              Sorry that was kind of lengthy, I hope it helps you out. If you have any questions at all let me know and I'll answer them the best that I am able. Hopefully the 3.4 is like the 3.8 or this will probably be useless to you. Good luck :)

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              • #22
                Re: vibration

                thanks, that would be great

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                • #23
                  Re: vibration

                  wait, before you go doing motor mounts, replace the transmission mount. its way easier and in my opinion its way more likely to be your problem.

                  96 V6 A4 Camaro and 99 Z28 A4 Camaro
                  Visit My F-Body Page

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                  • #24
                    Re: vibration

                    i changed the transmission mount and also the tps sensor and it made no differerce. the vibration is still there.

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                    • #25
                      Re: vibration

                      what do you mean pm sent

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