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When I took the cover plate off I seen where the gear hit. ( I'm lucky I was just going about 5 mph) I just filed it down and put some loctite on the nut then Tq it. Drove fine for years after that.
Yes, it's right behind your drive shaft. just take out the four bolts.
Ahh... so if I get under there tonight and the drive shaft moves, I just pop those four bolts off? I fluid gonna come spilling out? I have personally never violated a car by getting my hands all up in it rear end. This is new to me. Any pics floating around?
I have personally never violated a car by getting my hands all up in it rear end
Good time to start:)
No oil will come out. I'm going to say it wouldn't hurt to check it. (bad u-joints will also let the driveshaft move) It takes something like a 1 1/4 socket for the pinion nut.
if the pinion nut is backing off you'll have to get it serviced by someone because the pinion has to be set to within a thousandth of an inch, or else it will F*** S*** up later on.
if the pinion nut is backing off you'll have to get it serviced by someone because the pinion has to be set to within a thousandth of an inch, or else it will F*** S*** up later on.
Yes... I was just about to ask this. Doesn't have something to do with the gear lash or something. This is why you are Bone Approved. :)
[QUOTE=Firebirdkid96;856778]if the pinion nut is backing off you'll have to get it serviced by someone because the pinion has to be set to within a thousandth of an inch, or else it will F*** S*** up later on.[/QUOTE
(I think it's around .007) I was just saying this is what I done, and never had any trouble or noise afterwards.
Yeah, I'll get under there tonight and give it a wiggle. Hopefully all that needs to be done is the bolt tightened up. That high pitched whine is about to drive me nuts though.
if the pinion nut is backing off you'll have to get it serviced by someone because the pinion has to be set to within a thousandth of an inch, or else it will F*** S*** up later on.[/QUOTE
(I think it's around .007) I was just saying this is what I done, and never had any trouble or noise afterwards.
depends on the car and how the ring gear is setting up.
I know on my friends s-10, when we put a new auburn lsd in with 3.73's, it had to be shimmed .008 because we had used gears...
Before you freak out when you find some movement in the axle on the driver side like there was on the passenger side; this is normal with a c-clip style axle. ;)
Did you try listening for changes in the sound as I described before (back on page 3, I think)?? This can be very helpful in identifying the source of a bearing noise.
-<i>Travis</i><br /><b>99 Trans Am, Pewter, A4</b> Forged, stalled, and cammed<br /><b>85 Buick Regal WH1 T-Type</b> It\'d be cool if it ran...<br /><b>94 Camaro 3.4, Teal, M5</b> The daily beater
Before you freak out when you find some movement in the axle on the driver side like there was on the passenger side; this is normal with a c-clip style axle. ;)
Did you try listening for changes in the sound as I described before (back on page 3, I think)?? This can be very helpful in identifying the source of a bearing noise.
This is abnormal movement. I have never, in any car, been able to easy move the entire wheel/axel assembly to the point that it's like a bell's clapper on the brake pads.
I did try what you suggested and it didn't seem to affect the sound at all.
Alright, I never saw a reply to that, so I wasn't sure if you'd tried it. This pretty much rules out a hub, axle bearing, or carrier bearing.
As stated by alot of others in this thread, check for movement in the pinion gear; however, simply tightening the nut isn't a propper repair. What occurs in this situation is not simply the nut backing off. The crush sleeve that sits between the front and rear pinion bearings becomes "overcrushed." This can be caused by lots of hard launches and jolts to the rear end. Tightening the nut will pull the front and rear pinion bearings closer together, and in turn pressing them harder into their races. The result of that is too much bearing preload which will wear out the bearings even more. If they're making noise, they're probably already excessively worn.
The propper repair for an "overcrushed" crush sleeve is to replace the sleeve and reset the bearing preload to spec. While it might be somewhat intimidating, this really isn't as difficult as most think it is.
The real fix for the condition is to install a solid pinion spacer that does not crush. This is a little more time consuming to install, but it's actually kinda hard to screw up, unlike the crush sleeve.
Now, as to the movement in the wheel/axle- Like I said, some movement is normal. See how it compares to the opposite side. There's really only one cause for excessive movement in the axle, and that is physical damage to the axle and/or c-clip.
If you find that the pinion bearing is loose and want to tackle the job yourself, I can do a little write up for you if you like. There are no shims to change around and you won't have to worry about setting backlash or pinion depth. The only thing you need to check is the pinion bearing preload, and that can be done pretty easily with a cheap bar-type torque wrench.
And btw: Nice sig pic ;)
-<i>Travis</i><br /><b>99 Trans Am, Pewter, A4</b> Forged, stalled, and cammed<br /><b>85 Buick Regal WH1 T-Type</b> It\'d be cool if it ran...<br /><b>94 Camaro 3.4, Teal, M5</b> The daily beater
I would love to tackle it myself. A write up would be awesome. Also, I have a nice torque wrench, so I'll see set there, unless the technique requires a cheap bar-type.
Thanks on the sig pic. I had fun drawing this one. Actually, I starting making it for another member that requested a sig then thought, I'm gonna use this on mine.
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3 weeks ago
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