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would the fact the the 3.4 is OBD I have anything to do with the effects differing between cars? the cooling systems from 3.4 to 3.8 are different, and i can understand how the PCM may control some part of the cooling system on the 3.8...isnt the 3.4 PCM's only cooling function operating the fan?
thanks....
I'm hardly an expert on 3.4's but I know as I said earlier, I couldn't run a 180 in my 3.8 until i got the PCM reflashed.
i seem to blow up alternators, drop **** into tiny crevasses in my car ( i think i have 3 or 4 screwdrivers somewhere near my air deflector) :(
Just think of it as carrying around a tool kit. You prepared for any roadside emergency. :)
i break spark plug wires when i try to change them, break bolts off egr pedastals etc etc (these are all within the last 2 weeks)
Everybody does this. Fixing them is how you gain experience so it doesn't happen the next time. Asking alot of questions is how you avoid it in the first place. For instance, a little silicon grease on the inside of the spark plug boots will keep them from sticking to the plugs, a little anti-sieze will make the egr bolts come off easier the next time.
The best question you can ask yourself is when was the last time the car ran fine and what's changed since then. That usually gives you a pretty good place to start looking. Hopefully your next post here will be that your car is running great.
the air dam unbolts from the bumper and you can get whatever you mightve lost in there.
i know ive dropped a screw or two down there, what a pain.
as for the problems at hand.
ditch the underdrive pullies. theres no need or imo no place for them on a daily driver.
manual fan switches and lower temp thermos shouldnt be necessary either, for a properly running cooling system.
i have the stock thermo, no fan switches, and my temp stays below 180 in most circumstances. it used to go WAY over. but since ive replaced my water pump and flushed my coolant its been good.
do you still have the stock water pump? is there any gunk in your coolant?
your low voltage is likely a combination of too much load and underdriving the alternator. i dont have any extra electronicals so i cant really help you out there.
<a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2265676\" target=\"_blank\">95 bright red camaro 3.4l</a>
thank you for the helpful replies (just checking in since i got back from work)
the underdrive pully is on the way OUT. i'm trying to get one from a fellow v6 member but if i can't find one their or ebay, i'll just suck it up and order it (70$ from gm parts direct)
is it expensive for a piece of metal? yeah, but if it fixes my problem its well worth its weight in gold to me.
as for the water pump and coolant, yes it is stock but my coolant is always full (whenever i check) and there is no gunk from what i can see, but who knows if this 15 year old car has ever been flushed or not, so might as well give it a shot.
i think you guys are right about the voltage situation, as it being a combination of underdrive and overload by my accessories.
in a perfect world with our theory as it now stands, puting the stock crank pulley back on just might fix both problems. =)
wrestled around with my thermostat for a while (if you've got a 3.4 and know where the thermo is, you know its a pita without the right tools)
and i finally got it replaced with a 160 degree fail safe thermo.
Keep in mind i realize in light of the "real" problem, when i do get it fixed then this 160 thermo will help me keep my engine just that much cooler. :cool:
btw, the coolant looked very clean.
I'm still gonna have it flushed and put new rad. hoses on cuz i'm gonna go to the shop for some spot welding anyhow so why not.
still can't find a shop or person who's sellin a stock crank pulley, if i have enough $ i will order the stocker on friday, along with a stock serp. belt.
thats all i got for now, i'll let u know how the whole "shop business" works tomorrow and let u know if it's changed the situation at all.
Keep your old thermo! Wish I could have stopped you before you put in that "fail safe." The temp will heat up when stopped to 220, and when it does (which it will if you don't have the fan running) my concern is that failsafe will snap open leaving your cooling system in open loop. Keep your old thermo and if it does, switch back. - This is a heads up to what *might* happen. And yeah, it's a pain to switch those out in the 3.4.
I agree with almost everything Andy said, except the part about the thermo. a lower thermo won't make your car over heat, but it will make it seem like it's over heating. Stock is 195, most of us have 180, and a few have 160. When stopped the car will heat up to 220 until the fan kicks on no mater what thermo you have. It will even do this with an open thermo if you are stopped.
Keep your old thermo! Wish I could have stopped you before you put in that "fail safe." The temp will heat up when stopped to 220, and when it does (which it will if you don't have the fan running) my concern is that failsafe will snap open leaving your cooling system in open loop. Keep your old thermo and if it does, switch back. - This is a heads up to what *might* happen. And yeah, it's a pain to switch those out in the 3.4.
no i hear what your saying, my hope is that it will NOT ever get that hot if i can get this problem fixed. plus it only "might" break.
btw, how can i tell if i'm in OPEN loop mode?
as in, what will happen?
it says if it does do that, you have to replace it.
i really don't mind having to do it again if it breaks cuz then i will just put the stocker back in.
Keep your old thermo! Wish I could have stopped you before you put in that "fail safe." The temp will heat up when stopped to 220, and when it does (which it will if you don't have the fan running) my concern is that failsafe will snap open leaving your cooling system in open loop. Keep your old thermo and if it does, switch back. - This is a heads up to what *might* happen. And yeah, it's a pain to switch those out in the 3.4.
I agree with almost everything Andy said, except the part about the thermo. a lower thermo won't make your car over heat, but it will make it seem like it's over heating. Stock is 195, most of us have 180, and a few have 160. When stopped the car will heat up to 220 until the fan kicks on no mater what thermo you have. It will even do this with an open thermo if you are stopped.
just read your NEW info, wish i knew that, so basically NOW what will happen is that it will climb up to 220 again when stopped but now it will "appear" to be "overheating" even quicker, right?
just read your NEW info, wish i knew that, so basically NOW what will happen is that it will climb up to 220 again when stopped but now it will "appear" to be "overheating" even quicker, right?
Not quicker, just more pronounced. (it will go from 160ish to 220ish when stopped, unless your fan is switched on instead of 180 to 220 or 195 to 220 (which on my Impala 3800 isn't obvious at all). When the coolant is running open loop, it just means that the thermo will be stuck open, which is what those failsafe thermos do. It won't hurt anything (not right away), it will just keep the car from warming up as fast as it normally would, and when winter comes you won't have much heat and the car will probably never enter the ECU's "closed loop" because the computer won't think the engine is warm, which it won't be.
Just hang on to your old thermo, IF and when the failsafe does what it's designed to do (which I affectionately call "breaking") you won't have heat and the car will take forever to warm up. This is really more of an aside, cause it's not part of your problems right now, just keep it in mind.
Not quicker, just more pronounced. (it will go from 160ish to 220ish when stopped, unless your fan is switched on instead of 180 to 220 or 195 to 220 (which on my Impala 3800 isn't obvious at all). When the coolant is running open loop, it just means that the thermo will be stuck open, which is what those failsafe thermos do. It won't hurt anything (not right away), it will just keep the car from warming up as fast as it normally would, and when winter comes you won't have much heat and the car will probably never enter the ECU's "closed loop" because the computer won't think the engine is warm, which it won't be.
lol i don't get that table at all but thanks for trying. :wavey:
i do understand the concept of what your saying tho.
but let me get this right, the only time it will go into open loop is if it breaks, which i'm hoping it won't cuz its new, but if it does then i can recognize that it is broken because the car will essentially take FOREVER to heat up??
Not quicker, just more pronounced. (it will go from 160ish to 220ish when stopped, unless your fan is switched on instead of 180 to 220 or 195 to 220 (which on my Impala 3800 isn't obvious at all). When the coolant is running open loop, it just means that the thermo will be stuck open, which is what those failsafe thermos do. It won't hurt anything (not right away), it will just keep the car from warming up as fast as it normally would, and when winter comes you won't have much heat and the car will probably never enter the ECU's "closed loop" because the computer won't think the engine is warm, which it won't be.
Just hang on to your old thermo, IF and when the failsafe does what it's designed to do (which I affectionately call "breaking") you won't have heat and the car will take forever to warm up. This is really more of an aside, cause it's not part of your problems right now, just keep it in mind.
so "failsafe" is really like saying "yeah, its basically gonna break but at least you won't have your thermo stuck shut!! :rolleyes:"
i will hang on to the old one.
btw, what are the "chances" of it "breaking" does it happen often? and when does it break more easily, when its overheating?
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