Keeps dying

[jrock]

well i have pulled the ICM and brushed off the white crust off of it and the mount it sits on. I put some corrosion block on the connectors and reinstalled everything. I sat there waiting for it to die for about an hour and it didn't. I did notice that the fuel pump is active all of the time (atleast during idle) Is that supposed to do that or is it supposed to come on and off depending on fuel pressure?

[jrock]

The car is still stalling on me. It did it to me two more times today. I have yet to put a fuel pressure gauge on it but i am going to take it up to a repair shop and see if they can diagnose the problem before i put any more money into it. I will let everyone know what i come up with.

[jrock]

what does everyone think about seafoaming the gas tank? There is a TSB out on the injectors being cloged. (the repair shop didn't help any) Should i just seafoam the thing and replace the fuel filter and sea what happens?

[jrock]

I got an SES light today. It was a PO420 which is a faulty cat. Could that be causing my stalling or would that be unrelated?
Thanks your all your help

[Turbo V6 Camaro]

Originally posted by jrock:
I got an SES light today. It was a PO420 which is a faulty cat. Could that be causing my stalling or would that be unrelated?
Thanks your all your help

yes it could couase it

[jrock]

Ok guyes yesterday I took a step in the right direction. I connected a fuel pump to my fuel rail and found that when operating correctly the pressure is one pound within spec. when the car started to die the pressure dropped to less than 20 psi and then quickly came back up to 42 or so then the engine was able to "restart" itself. What i am thinking now is possibly a connector for the fuel pump's power is corroded and i need to clean it up. If someone could tell me where the connectors are for the motor power, it would help out alot. Any other ideas would also help greatly. Thanks again

[Turbo V6 Camaro]

Originally posted by jrock:
Ok guyes yesterday I took a step in the right direction. I connected a fuel pump to my fuel rail and found that when operating correctly the pressure is one pound within spec. when the car started to die the pressure dropped to less than 20 psi and then quickly came back up to 42 or so then the engine was able to "restart" itself. What i am thinking now is possibly a connector for the fuel pump's power is corroded and i need to clean it up. If someone could tell me where the connectors are for the motor power, it would help out alot. Any other ideas would also help greatly. Thanks again

sounbds like your fuel pressure regulator has gone flaky

is it hard starting on cold moring? or just when the car has been sitting for a while?

[jrock]

The reason i think that it may be an electrical issue is the fact i only have 67k miles and the car was up to its lugnuts durring a hurricane. when do regulators go bad? how can i prove that it is the regulator without buying one?

[Turbo V6 Camaro]

Originally posted by jrock:
The reason i think that it may be an electrical issue is the fact i only have 67k miles and the car was up to its lugnuts durring a hurricane. when do regulators go bad? how can i prove that it is the regulator without buying one?

thing is even if my car stalls the FUel psi dont drop off

[jrock]

What i have noticed is.. The fuel pressure will drop and then as a result of that the car will almost stall (sometimes it will stall) The fuel pressure will then jump back to just over 40 psi and then the car will run like normal. As is appears in the drawings the fuel line comming from the pump to the regulator is somewhere around 60psi all of the time. The regulator is there to make it easier for to computer to provide the right amount of fuel. when you hit the gas the regulator allows for more pressure in the fuel rail to compensate for the extra fuel required by the injectors. (at least that is how i understand it) My fuel pressure does everything it should according to this. (except for when it stalls)

[98Camaro3.8]

Originally posted by jrock:
As is appears in the drawings the fuel line comming from the pump to the regulator is somewhere around 60psi all of the time. The regulator is there to make it easier for to computer to provide the right amount of fuel. when you hit the gas the regulator allows for more pressure in the fuel rail to compensate for the extra fuel required by the injectors.

The regulator controls the actual pressure. Without it, the pressure would be higher. It does increse fuel pressure like you said, based on the higher MAP associated with increased throttle position.

Correct fuel pressures:
Pump on, engine off: 48-55 psi.
Should drop no more than 5 psi in 10 min.
Relieve pressure to 10 psi, should drop no more than 2 psi in the next 10 min.
Engine on: 3-10psi lower than engine off (with pump on).

According to the manual, anything over 55 psi (pump on, engine off) should be looked at.

[jrock]

Thanks for the clarification!

My fuel pressures:
Pump on, engine off: 48 psi.
drops about 5 psi in 10 min.
Engine on: 42 psi.

[jrock]

I have found the problem (I think)

Looking at the schematics i found that the ground for the fuel pump motor (located near the driver seat on the floor board) was loose. It obviously has been arching because the bolt that holds it down has heated up to a point where the carpet has slightly melted to it. I cleaned it up and we will see if the problem is still there.

I wanted to take the time to thank everyone who has helped me through this problem. If it weren't for your help then I might have given up and took it to a dealer. You saved me 100s of dollars.

THANK YOU