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I have heard that removing some of the lip of the air dam that pushes air up to the radiator causes our cars to overheat. is this true? i wanna get rid of some of it so it doesn't scrape as much. If i were to get the rafiator from slp, 160 degree thermostat, redline water wetter(if it works like everyone says), and lowered the fan temp setting, will the car still overheat?
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2001 Arctic White Firebird<br />T-Tops, 3.42 rear gear stock<br />Mods:K&N Air Filter,Whisper Air Induction Lid, maf screen removed, raised air box, Kumho Ecsta 712 255-50-ZR16 tires, BMR stb<br />Mods not installed yet: FTRA, SLP Lsd/Differential cover<br />Near Future Mods: HPP3, GMMG 3\" Exhaust , 1LE Swaybars, Transgo Shift Kit, MSD-DIS-4 w/ Accel Coil-Packs, Turquoise Blue Neon Underbody Kit, BMR Adj. LCA\'s, G2 Sfc\'s & V-braces, Pacesetter headers -
My air dam has been scraping for 8 years and not had any problems, doesn't even looked that scratched up. jsut remember not to pull all the way to a parking spot, even if oyu do it doesn't hurt anything, it was built to take it, hell clipped a racoon going 35 mph with my air damn, he did some barrel rolls in my rear view, but got up and scurried away, didn't see any blood on the road later, guess he was alright. [img]smile.gif[/img]
I guess in theaory oyu cold do it, but if it does affect your car, its gonna cost a fortune to fix it, unless you use duct tape. [img]smile.gif[/img] -
Don't use water wetter! It will corode your radiator.2002 M5 Bright Metallic Silver <br />*Fully loaded and modded<br /><br />2005 GSXR 750<br />*Micron Serpent Race Exhaust *K&N Filter *Power Commander *Trying to hit 200 MPH!<br /><br />1970 SS 454 Chevelle Cortez Silver<br />*It can pass anything but a gas stationComment
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You're better off keeping the air dam on, especially considering the amount of money, and the potential problems that you're creating, just to get rid of the scraping. If you do all of that to run the engine cooler, you also run the risk of keeping the engine under the warm-up up temp, in which case the PCM would stay in open-loop all the time. That means that you'd be running rich and un-metered all the time, which would give you some extra power in certain areas of the powerband, but hurt it in others, and it would also wipe out your gas mileage.Wife and a dog, they both think they\'re Kujo.<br /> <br />1999 3.8 A4 Y87<br />Navy Blue Metallic<br />BFG G-Force KDWS 275/40/17s, <br />WS6 Wheels (17x9)<br />Phoenix Transmissions 2400 Stall Converter<br />FRA, Holley Powershot filter, Whisper Lid, Ported Throttlebody<br />2000 manifolds, Flowmaster, WS6 Tail Pipes, <br />MSD 8.5mm Wires, MSD Coils, Autolite plugs<br />Performance Cryogenics treated rotors<br />1LE Sway Bars and panhard rod, 1LE front springs w/SLP Bilsteins, stock rear springs w/ 3rd Gen Bilsteins, BMR STB, KBDD SFCs, 1LE rear lower control arms, 1LE front lower control arms<p>1968 Chevelle Malibu 327 TH350Comment
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by MustangEater8251:
hell clipped a racoon going 35 mph with my air damn, he did some barrel rolls in my rear view, but got up and scurried away, didn't see any blood on the road later, guess he was alright. [img]smile.gif[/img] <hr></blockquote>
[img]graemlins/rofl.gif[/img] :D
stuff like this amuses me. I did hit an opposum once. I tried to drive directly underneath him but I guess it freaked out and moved at the last second because I heard a "bump...bump" and saw a lump in the road...what a shame.Comment
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by 99Camaro99:
[img]graemlins/rofl.gif[/img] :D
stuff like this amuses me. I did hit an opposum once. I tried to drive directly underneath him <hr></blockquote>
whoa! talk about slammed! :rolleyes: [img]graemlins/rofl.gif[/img]Comment
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On mine i just took a hacksaw and cut off the part that hangs down, about an inch and a half. So it is all there, just trimmed down. Doesn't scrape a bit anymore!
ScottComment
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I wouldn't bother trying to remove the air dam, or any part of it. What's it hurt if it scrapes? Nothing! So why remove it if it could screw your car up? Think about it.
I've also reason in some posts that the air dam helps keep the front end of your car stable and on the ground when going at high speeds.
[ April 23, 2002: Message edited by: GrdLock ]</p>Kyle M<br />--------------<br /><a href=\"http://grdws6.netfirms.com\" target=\"_blank\">2002 Trans Am WS6</a> (silver, A4) - lid, cutout, stage 3 shift kit, 12 bolt, vig 3200, tranny cooler, bmr sfc/stb, torq thrust ii. <b>12.688 @ 106.47mph -=- 1.756 60\'</b>Comment
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my whole thing is i'm gonna lower my car some and don't want anything getting messed up w/ it. the max i'll go is 1 1/2 inch drop.2001 Arctic White Firebird<br />T-Tops, 3.42 rear gear stock<br />Mods:K&N Air Filter,Whisper Air Induction Lid, maf screen removed, raised air box, Kumho Ecsta 712 255-50-ZR16 tires, BMR stb<br />Mods not installed yet: FTRA, SLP Lsd/Differential cover<br />Near Future Mods: HPP3, GMMG 3\" Exhaust , 1LE Swaybars, Transgo Shift Kit, MSD-DIS-4 w/ Accel Coil-Packs, Turquoise Blue Neon Underbody Kit, BMR Adj. LCA\'s, G2 Sfc\'s & V-braces, Pacesetter headersComment
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Patrick im lowered 1.5" and i dont even scrape on speed bumps... the worst place i scrape is coming out of parking lots without angling it, if i hit it at an angle them im good, i also bang my catalytic converter over speed bumps alot...i hate thatR.I.P \'99 Firebird, you will be missed<p>New toy - 2001 GSXR-750, Yoshimura Exhaust, Power Commander, Rebuilt AirboxComment
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DO NOT REMOVE THE AIR DAM, it is highly functional and necessary. When it rubs, it serves as a warning to be more careful and that you are getting close to the ground [img]smile.gif[/img] Mine rubs all the time with no problems. When I had it off for a little bit, even going 60 with foot off the gas or on, car went to 230* and climbing, quickly pulled over and put it back on, instantly better, back down to the normal 180 in a minute or two of driving, my strong advice is to leave it on.C. Boney<br />1997 Firebird 3.8L V6<br />---------------------<br />Modifications:<br /> <br /> SLP Cold Air Induction, Ported/Polished Throttle Body, Carsound 3\" High Flow Cat, Sweet Thunder 24\" Chambered Muffler, Removed Rear Exhaust Section, Custom Fan Switch, 35th Anniv. Silver Stripes, Old T/A-Style Silver Sail BirdsComment
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Blue Flame V6:
Don't use water wetter! It will corode your radiator.<hr></blockquote>
really? it's formulated to keep rust and corrosion down, not raise it.
and if you feel that way, get some royal purple, or 40 below2011 Camaro LS 6M, in black.Comment
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Woohoo!!! I love you guys, I know whymy car has been running hot lately. It's been ever since I took off my air dam thingy, it makes sense now... I've been going insane for the past few months, I've flushed the radiator twice, swapped PCMs twice, replaced my 160 thermo once, and then put in a fan switch --still no luck on getting my temp down the way it used to be. I'm stupid, its been the lack of the air dam the whole time, thanks guys!!!
:D1999 Black Trans Am A4<br /> <br />-Flowmaster with Flowtech Cutout <br />-SLP Lid <br />-SLP MAF <br />-Ported Heads, hardened pushrods<br />-Diable Sport Programming<br />-18\' ZO6 Polished rimsComment
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Even shaving your airdam won't help too much. With my lowering springs, I hit my catalytic converter, i-pipe and BMR tunnel brace more than anything. I haven't bottomed out on the air dam in a LONG time.- Josh<br />If you have any questions or need installation pics/help, e-mail me: Viper98885@aol.com<br /><a href=\"http://Camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/viper98885\" target=\"_blank\">\'93 Camaro Hardtop</a><br /><a href=\"http://Camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/01lincolnls8\" target=\"_blank\">\'01 Lincoln LS8 Sport</a><br />\'00 Yamaha YZF-R6<br /><a href=\"http://www.ftpp.net\" target=\"_blank\">Full Throttle Performance</a>Comment
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