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Thats what I'm talking about, will be putting it in tomorrow and replacing my leaking oil level sensor.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
As that other guy stated.. Its all about the filter too. I use mobil 1 filters.
**** aint cheap either. i kinda wish i didnt spend 40bucks to change my own oil but.. 'eh
Heady Navy Blue Metalic<br />Heady Catback Flowmasters<br />Heady Bilstien HDs, PAnhard rod, LCAs,SFCs<br />NGK\'s and MSD Wires, K&N flowin + Smooth Bellow<br />Y87 3800 GT Performance.<br />I love the way this car makes turns!<br /><br />1989 black Camoaro RS. R.I.P.
They fail to state who performed the tests. I'm sure Amsoil is the tester so why wouldn't they only show the test they did well in. In most of the results on that page, the majority of us will never see conditions the test are supposed to simulate. The one thing I do see from those tests are that synthetic oils all perform better than conventional oils. They also left out price comparison. Who gives the most bang for the buck spent?
Is there an independent or government test that has been done to compare oils?
Mobil 1 5w-30 and an AC Delco oil filter. I tried using the Mobil 1 filter, but I can't justify paying $10 for a single filter. You can't go wrong with an OEM filter and the type of oil that most manufacturers of high end cars recommend.
[QUOTE=zpwn06;897143]why not if they can rebuild the engine every race?
They rebuild the engine after every race because it is put under such stress that it may not hold up for another gruling race, think about it why risk the chance of loosing a huge race with a used abused engine.
I've used all of them except the new valvoline fully synthetic. They are all good. I like the rp for the extended drain intervals. However, mobil one is a little cheaper around here so I just run RP in my camaro's and use mobil one in my daily drivers unless RP is on sale and the same price as the mobil one, then I use the RP.
Race oils and oil for street cars are not the same oils. They are designed for different environments. Race oils have higher levels of antiwear additives such as zinc to prevent wear that are not legal to use in street cars. These higher levels of zinc etc destroy emissions equipment such as o2 sensors etc and the EPA made the oil companies reduce these antiwear additives in street oils. Lots of people running flat tappet cams in older muscle cars with no emission equipment or race engines have gone to using race oil and changing it more often or using diesel oil such as Shell Rotella T since both have higher levels of zinc. Also race oils do not have the additives that prolong their useage so they break down much quicker. They are not designed to go 3000 plus miles.
Nascar engines operate over 8000 rpm for 500 miles and that is equal to putting on 100,000 miles on a street engine. Would you start the next race and potentially lose millions not to mention piss off your sponsors giving you lots of coin by using an worn out engine? Top fuel and funny cars that run nitro pretty much destroy pistons almost every single round. I guess thats expected when you push 8000 hp to the max.
Hey everyone! I've been trying to remove my transmission for two days now! I need to replace the clutch. Only thing I've got left holding the transmission...
4 weeks ago
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