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I'm probably changing my oil pan soon...Its been bottomed out a few too many times. But, I've got the tubular k-member, so its supposed to be alot simpler...did somebody have a decent write up about changing? Its always nice to have another reference than the repair manual (which can be alittle too general sometimes)
I, of course havent seen the under side of your car, would imagine you're pretty clear of anything in your way. You probably just need to put your car on stands, drain the oil, get under it with a ratchet and break all the bolts loose. Then use the air ratchet, 3" extension and I think a 13 mm socket and undo all the bolts completely, drop the pan, CLEAN the gasket. Then get some siliconiac (rtv, silcone w/e) put in on the block and the oil pan. stick the gasket on the block and shove the pan back up there. tighten up. hahaha Fill with oil and put the car on the ground
damn... i was just looking on the instrucs on how to do this.. there is alot involved. its saying about the mounts, raise motor, drop k member, then you have access to the pan.. thats BS man. thats suppose to be one of the easy things to fix/ replace on ANY car.. bastards.. lol good luck man.. it doesnt look easy and even labor is going to take you appx 4-5 hours at the dealer pending what your transmission is..
I, of course havent seen the under side of your car, would imagine you're pretty clear of anything in your way. You probably just need to put your car on stands, drain the oil, get under it with a ratchet and break all the bolts loose. Then use the air ratchet, 3" extension and I think a 13 mm socket and undo all the bolts completely, drop the pan, CLEAN the gasket. Then get some siliconiac (rtv, silcone w/e) put in on the block and the oil pan. stick the gasket on the block and shove the pan back up there. tighten up. hahaha Fill with oil and put the car on the ground
cant just DROP the pan.. there are alot of things in the way...
I'm probably changing my oil pan soon...Its been bottomed out a few too many times. But, I've got the tubular k-member, so its supposed to be alot simpler...did somebody have a decent write up about changing? Its always nice to have another reference than the repair manual (which can be alittle too general sometimes)
here is one without the photos. there are spaces in there. I just removed the photos that were attached.. to make it easier to post for you hope this helps
Service and Repair Removal Procedure
Install the engine support fixture to the engine. Refer to Engine Support Fixture.
Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
Drain the engine oil.
Remove the right side engine mount (2) to cradle bolts (1).
Remove the left side engine mount (2) to cradle bolts (1).
Remove the right and left side shock absorber lower mounting bolts.
Remove the intermediate steering shaft bolt from the rack and pinion.
Support the engine cradle with appropriate equipment.
Disconnect the oil level sensor electrical connector (1). Notice Remove the oil level sensor, located in the oil pan, before the oil pan is removed. The sensor may be damaged if the oil pan is removed first.
Remove the oil level sensor from the oil pan.
Remove the starter motor.
1G12. Remove the front crossmember bolts.
Remove the oil pan bolts (1).
Remove the oil pan (2). Lower the rear of the oil pan while rotating the pan outward.
Remove the oil pan gasket
Clean the oil pan gasket mating surface.
Installation Procedure
Install the oil pan gasket
Install the oil pan (2). Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
Install the oil pan bolts (1).
Tighten the oil pan bolts to 14 Nm (10 ft. lbs.).
Install the front crossmember bolts.
Tighten the upper four crossmember bolts to 125 Nm (92 ft. lbs.).
Tighten the lower two crossmember bolts to 145 Nm (107 ft. lbs.).
Install the starter motor.
Install the oil level sensor to the oil pan.
Tighten the oil level sensor to 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.).
Connect the oil level sensor electrical connector (1).
Remove the equipment used to support the engine cradle.
Install the intermediate steering shaft from the rack and pinion.
Tighten the intermediate shaft bolt to 47 Nm (35 ft. lbs.).
Install the right and left side shock absorber lower mounting bolts.
Tighten the shock bolts to 65 Nm (48 ft. lbs.).
Install the left side engine mount (2) to cradle bolts (1).
Tighten the left side engine mount to cradle bolts (1) to 58 Nm (43 ft. lbs.).
Install the right side engine mount (2) to cradle bolts (1).
Tighten the right side engine mount to cradle bolts (1) to 58 Nm (43 ft. lbs.).
This is why I went with a tub.K member a A arms , don't loose anything because it falls right through and you have access to all the oil pan bolts , so it comes right out.Tub. K FTW.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
That lil write up was for ssms5411. as far as i know there is only one tube on the v6 that is less than 2" in diameter and is out of the way.
^ Thanks.lol
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
Hey everyone! I've been trying to remove my transmission for two days now! I need to replace the clutch. Only thing I've got left holding the transmission...
4 weeks ago
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