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I didn't know this but the 3800 has both a crank position sensor and a camshaft position sensor. In the Haynes manual Section 6-15 it shows the test procedure for the cam sensor.
1. With the key in the Run position, the voltage at the red/black and white/black wires should be 12V.
2. If #1 is good, reconnect the connector and then backprobe the brown/white wire with the + probe of the voltmeter, and the - side of the voltmeter goes to a good ground. You should get 4V. Then rotate the crankshaft 2 full turns and see if the voltage drops to 0V. This shows that the sensor is sending a signal and is probably good.
I would do this when it's refusing to start, and before going through headache of pulling off the crank pulley.
I didn't know this but the 3800 has both a crank position sensor and a camshaft position sensor. In the Haynes manual Section 6-15 it shows the test procedure for the cam sensor.
1. With the key in the Run position, the voltage at the red/black and white/black wires should be 12V.
2. If #1 is good, reconnect the connector and then backprobe the brown/white wire with the + probe of the voltmeter, and the - side of the voltmeter goes to a good ground. You should get 4V. Then rotate the crankshaft 2 full turns and see if the voltage drops to 0V. This shows that the sensor is sending a signal and is probably good.
I would do this when it's refusing to start, and before going through headache of pulling off the crank pulley.
But if the car starts now should I still check it??
I mean the only problem now is that the car will randomly stall but it has no issue starting up anymore. I mean I have to give it a few attempts before it starts but it'll start on the 3rd or 4th try but turn off anywhere from a minute to an hour later.
Oh and that Haynes manual is like a bible for these cars. Whew!
EDIT: Oh and after attempts to take off the center bolt I accidentally broke the oil pressure switch, but soon replaced it. But I noticed when I turn the car on I cant hear the fuel pump prime anymore.
Ok now im getting no fuel pump noise in the back and 0 psi on the gauge?? Whats going on I checked everything is connected I only touched the belt and thats it, now fuel pump sounds dead.
And then randomly after I wait a few minutes it'll prime again and start right up, but then again I wait and it fails to make a sound. Jeez whats going on...
Your fuel pump may be intermittent, or maybe it's the relay. You really need to get the codes read, that will probably give you a good clue. When my fuel pump died they tested the voltage at the pump, and the voltage was there, confirming that it was the pump that had died. It was an $1100 repair. So do it yourself if you can.
Nice. I love when multiple problems occur at the same time, add more flavor to the mess.
Codes are going to be read tomorrow we'll see what comes up. Its so strange the fuel pump only started to give me problems this Saturday after I took off the belt. But im going to work on her all day tomorrow! :tup:
When it rains it pours right. Update this tomorrow wish me luck.
Ok so I haven't got the codes checked yet, I dont want to cough up the money just yet it seems so close of a fix.
I changed the crankshaft position sensor today and it started up fine but died about 3 minutes into idling. Turned it on again and died 2 minutes, turned it on one last time and died a few seconds after. The idle is fine just dies out suddenly. So apparently the fix didn't do anything...
But here is my question. When the car is refusing the start and just continuously cranks I SHOULD be getting a spark in the spark plug wires right? I mean the car doesn't have to be running to get a spark detected in the wires.
I ask because the times she's refusing to start there is no spark coming from those wires. The spark plugs AND wires are brand new. What could be causing those wires not to be getting power? Security system?
Yes, you should be getting a spark when cranking it. So it looks like you've narrowed the problem down to the ignition system. You know it's not the plugs or wires, because those are brand new. And even if it were, it would only be like one plug or wire, they ALL wouldn't be bad. It would still run. You've already checked the coils and the ICM and verified it isn't them. You now have a new crank sensor so it's probably not that, there's nothing complex about that sensor anyway, it's just a magnet. You'll have to get the code checked because otherwise you're just throwing money and time at it by guessing. You can get the codes scanned at Autozone or Advance Auto for free, and probably other places will do it, too.
If the security system was an issue, then the security light would be on all the time, not just the few seconds during the bulb check or when the engine just died. I also think that the security system will cut off fuel, but I'm not sure.
So how was it getting that crank pulley off and then back on?
Haha it was.... fun. Yah thats what im sticking to.
The hardest part was getting that center bolt off man I had to rig two tools together to get enough torque to pull on that thing. But otherwise from that the crows foot puller was easy to use and got the job done.
Yah im scared to drive the car so I dont know if I can make it to Autozone and back but i'll see if they have a scanner for rent. When the car stall im not sure if it will start up again.
Just buy the $80-$90 pocket scan, dont pay someone everytime you want a code read. I bought mine and have saved hundreds in not having it scanned anywhere. On top of that i have saved probably a couple grand in repairs by figuring it out myself.
Ok so I haven't got the codes checked yet, I dont want to cough up the money just yet it seems so close of a fix.
I changed the crankshaft position sensor today and it started up fine but died about 3 minutes into idling. Turned it on again and died 2 minutes, turned it on one last time and died a few seconds after. The idle is fine just dies out suddenly. So apparently the fix didn't do anything...
get the codes read...or just keep throwing pointless money at the car only to not fix anything...COME ON!
Team NoVa
2000 Firebird- Intake, Pacesetters, !cat, full 2.5 to flowcrapster, 1.9 rockers, LS6 springs and Intense modded retainers, WS6 speedlines, T/A bumpers and hatch, 5 spd swapped, SOON TO BE nitrous'd and cammed.
Yah I know I found one at my local autozone for $60.00 what do you guys think. Is this sufficient enough to tell me what the problem is? I ask because when the car starts up no SES light comes on.
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4 weeks ago
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