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you cant run the car without a thermo...the gasket seals around it...unless you wanna pull some ghetto crap with some form-a-sealant...
Team NoVa
2000 Firebird- Intake, Pacesetters, !cat, full 2.5 to flowcrapster, 1.9 rockers, LS6 springs and Intense modded retainers, WS6 speedlines, T/A bumpers and hatch, 5 spd swapped, SOON TO BE nitrous'd and cammed.
I run a 160 thermo drilled twice on mine with a manual fan switch, still hits almost 200 F , I hope when I put in the 3 core ALM radiator drops it down 20-30 degrees.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
2000 Firebird- Intake, Pacesetters, !cat, full 2.5 to flowcrapster, 1.9 rockers, LS6 springs and Intense modded retainers, WS6 speedlines, T/A bumpers and hatch, 5 spd swapped, SOON TO BE nitrous'd and cammed.
STOCK DRILLED? so get a 160 and mod it? is there more info on this ill start searching i guess
Or make your own thread and not hi-jack someone elses expecting people to start answering questions on your car problems. Searching is the best or making your own thread.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
(Don't expect too many responses.) OP if you look at the stock temps I posted your well in the area of stock temp, its when a fan or fans don't work is when you'll run into high temps. If your existing coolant looks good and the fans are turning on, no need to waste money on the coolant system. Unless you change it from Dex crap to green coolant , thats a good investment.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
ok well i ran my car today. allll day at around 170.
with the stock radiator.
my mods to the coolent system are.
160 coolent temp sensor
(located under the throttle body)
modded thermo
(took the thermostat and cut the guts out.) "it restrics coolent enough to stay warm but lets it flow just enough to stay cool"
plastic delete infront of the radiator and condensor
(located in the front of the radiator and condesor. you unbolt them and bull the two plastic pieces out) "this causes more air to enter the radiator fins"
last but not least.
manual fan switch
("::"switch"::" witch you can control when the fans turn on or off.)
"allows you to keep the fans on constantly while cruising around, then turn off and race =] (prevents alternator being stressed. there for saving horsepower(5 or so)
i ran alll aroun town today (92 degrees out and very dry) the car only ran around 165 170. which is great. cause a warm engine makes more horsepower vs a hot one.
ECT sensor below the TB are all the same they just read the temp of the coolant. Theres not really a 160 sensor, the thermo is the one that is rated. For more cooling running more water per coolant will cool the engine off quicker than coolant, like a 30% coolant and 70% water or even more with some RP ICE.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
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