Welcome to the FirebirdV6.com/CamaroV6.com forums.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.
If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Hey guy so today i replaced my side mirrors and i had to take the door panel trim off a bit in order to undo the bolts from the previous mirror, and now this happened. theres a gap between the trim and the actual door. ive tried messing with it a fair amount but i was just curious as to if anyone can help me out or give me some advice. haha sorry if this is a dumb question/easy fix, id just appreciate some help. Thanks alot, robby
Robby 2001 Chevrolet Camaro 3.8 V6
|JET Chip|Flowmaster American Thunder|K&N Intake|BMR STB|Spohn Rear Sway Bar|
Looks to me like you just need to play around with the panel some more. I have not messed the panels on F-bodies, but on my other cars it sometimes took some time to get those panels back on properly.
the inside black piece kinda hooks over the door where that gap is.
X2 it hooks over and hangs on.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
put the flap over then go down. i believe this is how it works, sorry for the crude drawing
Team NoVa
2000 Firebird- Intake, Pacesetters, !cat, full 2.5 to flowcrapster, 1.9 rockers, LS6 springs and Intense modded retainers, WS6 speedlines, T/A bumpers and hatch, 5 spd swapped, SOON TO BE nitrous'd and cammed.
Yeah, they were a PITA to get them to "hook" correctly. I think I used to remove the corner triangle piece (opposite the rear view mirror) in order to get a little more room for the door panel to hook-over.
A little tip, have someone help you when you're doing it... line everything up the best you can, and have someone hold it toward the door near the bottom where the "hooks" are and then you hold it near the top and just ease it downward... I've done this to these doors like 6-7 times and it never really gets easier, I don't think I've ever gotten it on the first try...
Just figure out everywhere on the door panel that hooks into the door, and try and keep constant pressure on all those places while you move the panel down...
and most importantly... good luck, bc that's what really gets the door panel on right is luck
Rebuilding the engine... Building a custom front end... T-top conversion... Custom rear hatch..
Custom interior...
I suggest you go to home depot and get some silicon spray, spray the area that needs to be connected so you can reduce the resistance. I replaced my passenger mirror
two weeks ago but only pulled the inside door panel just enough to remove the bolts
that held on the old mirror. I know what you are going through and its a *****. If all else favors, go to a body shop at the chevy dealer and say " I wonder if you could do me a FAVOR? Could you get this door panel back for me?"
Its definitely a pain in the *** to put those panels on. The key is really getting each hook and the top flap to get into their attachment points at exactly the same time. I find that the part up near the front by the mirror sometimes is not in while everything else is. In this case just give it a little punch and it should snap in.
Like everyone else said, you'll rarely get it the first time, I dont think I have after doing it on 3 different f-bodies for window motors, speakers, window adjustments etc.
Yea sometimes it can be a pain in the @ss, but its never really taken me more than 1 0r 2 trys, You gotta do like blizzard says, angle the door panel, hang the top as you push toward the door and then down.
So my truck is finally getting some work done, after 17 years, Oil pressure sensor went out and it’s located under the lower intake manifold. Have to...
3 weeks ago
FORUM SPONSORS
Collapse
Working...
X
We process personal data about users of our site, through the use of cookies and other technologies, to deliver our services, personalize advertising, and to analyze site activity. We may share certain information about our users with our advertising and analytics partners. For additional details, refer to our Privacy Policy.
By clicking "I AGREE" below, you agree to our Privacy Policy and our personal data processing and cookie practices as described therein. You also acknowledge that this forum may be hosted outside your country and you consent to the collection, storage, and processing of your data in the country where this forum is hosted.
Comment