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Yeah, I do believe I have the newer version of the balancer, but I suppose I could give it another look.
Those who have replaced a bearing, how did you go about removing the engine? Is it easily lifted up and out through the top or do you have to drop it out of the bottom of the car?
I'm talking about the inside the balancer, you can't tell just by looking at the outside of it. Mine looks the same as the one in the video, there is no newer version of the balancer just if you want to upgrade to a 97' balancer and bolt. If yours is stock on your car its the same one that you will get if it is replaced. Mine was the same when they put one on for me.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
i had that same knock in my 2000 3.8 it was a rod bearing and about 12 mile down the road after i noticed the knock i spun a bearing and destoryed my motor so i am leanin more to the rod bearing bein the cause as for a flex plate they can also cause a knock but i don't know if it would be that bad because i haven't really heard one, now as for checking the bearings. that should be too hard you just have to pull the oil pan off and ckeck for play of damage on the end caps
2000 Firebird- Intake, Pacesetters, !cat, full 2.5 to flowcrapster, 1.9 rockers, LS6 springs and Intense modded retainers, WS6 speedlines, T/A bumpers and hatch, 5 spd swapped, SOON TO BE nitrous'd and cammed.
my car is doing the same thing, except I have more of a squeal and knock mix. I'm just gonna drop the engine and get a new one.
Get a new engine?
I've tossed this idea around as well (in addition to parting out the car or just selling as is, haha). Where do you plan on getting another engine and what do you expect to pay?
theres a lil junk yard down the road we always buy engines from, i got my 3.4 for my monte there for $400 with 89k miles on it, so I'm thinking no more than $800 I hope.
yeah you can. there is two types, the big earlier gay rubber one
and the one he has. same one i have, no rubber. hence, not a balancer problem.
He has a 96' so he will have the older one like I have since mine is a 96'. There is no newer version for the 96' I had mine replaced about a year ago and it was the same as the one that was replaced. Again you can not tell if a balancer is bad by lookiing at the outisde of it. The mechanic heard mine knocking when I drove up and said thats a balancer dry rotted. 2 hours later it was fine again. He showed me when I drove up he reached inside the balancer and had some chunks of rubber in his had, said he could feel where the rubber had came off. But don't listen to me, start ripping the motor apart or buy a newer engine instead of a $100 part. Also if you have no rubber on your balancer , how is it balanced, all 3800's I have seen even the 05' Buick's have rubber on their balancers.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
theres a lil junk yard down the road we always buy engines from, i got my 3.4 for my monte there for $400 with 89k miles on it, so I'm thinking no more than $800 I hope.
Nice. I'll have to look around to see what is available locally and keep that option in mind.
He has a 96' so he will have the older one like I have since mine is a 96'. There is no newer version for the 96' I had mine replaced about a year ago and it was the same as the one that was replaced. Again you can not tell if a balancer is bad by lookiing at the outisde of it. The mechanic heard mine knocking when I drove up and said thats a balancer dry rotted. 2 hours later it was fine again. He showed me when I drove up he reached inside the balancer and had some chunks of rubber in his had, said he could feel where the rubber had came off. But don't listen to me, start ripping the motor apart or buy a newer engine instead of a $100 part. Also if you have no rubber on your balancer , how is it balanced, all 3800's I have seen even the 05' Buick's have rubber on their balancers.
If the he you're referring to is me, my car is a '99 and thus has the '99 balancer. I had it off to change the timing chain and gears and didn't notice that it was rotted or anything, but I will certainly check it again before I go and rip my engine apart or anything.
But don't listen to me, start ripping the motor apart or buy a newer engine instead of a $100 part
now dont go gettin all but hurt. his is a 99
1999 Camaro 3.8
A little over 70,000 mi
4L60E
Stock ac
which means he has the same balancer as i do, which has no rubber.
Team NoVa
2000 Firebird- Intake, Pacesetters, !cat, full 2.5 to flowcrapster, 1.9 rockers, LS6 springs and Intense modded retainers, WS6 speedlines, T/A bumpers and hatch, 5 spd swapped, SOON TO BE nitrous'd and cammed.
I'm not hurt at all , just pointing out that your wrong if you think your balancer does not have any rubber on it or inside it to keep it balanced. All the 3800 balancers I have seen have rubber inside them to keep them balanced. This is what it says about 99' balancer they have a pic of it I'm trying to post with this but didn't come out which shows pretty much like you pictured rubber on the outside and rubber on the inside. I get a pic of it to show you, your wrong.
Replacement harmonic balancers are quickly becoming a hot item for today's car owners. The reason is Harmonic Vibrations which can lead to a variety of mechanical failures.
"Harmonic vibrations" are specific and repeated vibration patterns which pass through an object. In today's cars, such vibrations result from the combustion of the air-fuel mixture. Each time a cylinder fires, the connecting rod pounds the crankshaft journal as the force turns the crankshaft, causing energy to be dispersed throughout the engine. Multiply this by the number of cylinders (with variations in engine speed) and you have what is commonly called harmonic vibrations.
Some of the warning signs of harmonic balancer failure in a vehicle are:
A leaking front main seal
Visible deterioration of the rubber between the balancer hub and outer ring.
Visible cracking or warping of the balancer hub or outer ring.
Excessive engine vibration.
Slipping, squealing drive belts, belt damage, accelerated belt wear or frequent belt replacement.
A highly polished spot on pulley grooves (warped balancer).
Elongation of the balancer keyway or wear on the balancer hub/crankshaft.
Alternator, power steering pump, air conditioner or water pump failure.
Engines that do not run properly when adjusting the timing, or poor performance and irregular idle.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
Heres a pic of a 99' as you can see the outter is rubber and the inside has rubber going around it to balance it. Do you really think the balancers today don't have rubber to balance them out. I know the older cars they didn't but all the newer cars do. It actually looks like the pic up above that was posted, hard rubber front with rubber going around the inside.
Here is somemore reading for ya............Don't get Butt hurt.LOL
BAD VIBRATIONS
An effective torsional damper will extend the life of your small-block V8 for V6/90-degree Chevrolet by dampening harmful crankshaft vibrations. The torque inputs from the piston and rod assemblies bend and twist the crankshaft slightly with every power stroke. The crank then rebounds as the next cylinder fires. A torsional damper "quiets" these potentially destructive vibrations.
Productoin Chevrolet torsional dampers control crankshaft vibrations by the stretch and rebound of an elastomer (synthetic rubber) ring sandwiched between the damper's hub and its outer inertia ring. The GM/Fluidampers, in contrast, dampen vibrations by shearing a thick, viscous silicone fluid which is sealed inside the damper housing. Elastomer balancers are tuned to a specific frequency, and are very effective at that frequency. The GM Fluidamper is not tuned to a specific vibration frequency, so it is effective over a wide range of operating needs.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
2000 Firebird- Intake, Pacesetters, !cat, full 2.5 to flowcrapster, 1.9 rockers, LS6 springs and Intense modded retainers, WS6 speedlines, T/A bumpers and hatch, 5 spd swapped, SOON TO BE nitrous'd and cammed.
But the point is there is rubber on the front and on the inside to help balance the crank, read what I post about the 90 degree syntheic rubber for the balancers. You posted your balancer has no rubber which you are wrong. Just admit it and be done. Have you ever had a balancer go bad because it dry rotted out from the inside, I have and it sounds like a rod knocking because I have heard that noise too. That balancer in the pic you posted needs to be inspected it looks worn out badly, if the outside looks like that I don't even want to know what the inside is like.Heres what you posted:
Quote:
1999 Camaro 3.8
A little over 70,000 mi
4L60E
Stock ac
which means he has the same balancer as i do, which has no rubber.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
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