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OK I am in the middle of an engine rebuild on my 97 3.8 Firebird. The main cap bolts, rod bolts and head bolts are all TTY.
The machine shop says go ahead and re-use them, other's say dont take the chance.
Does anyone have any experience with this?
Scott
I got the rocker bolts with the cam. The head bolts are readily available so I can get them with the head gaskets. I cant seem to locate the main cap bolts, and I understand that if you change the rod bolts the rods need to be resized to match the cap up to the rod. Id like to avoid that expense if I can.
Scott
To be on the safe side and not worrying about it , I would get the correct TTY bolts.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
IMO, the worst thing to happen would be going through the rebuild just to have a chance of having to do it again later, plus as ssms said, the peace of mind of not having to worry about it is well worth the extra cost, don't know about having the caps resized, though...
Rebuilding the engine... Building a custom front end... T-top conversion... Custom rear hatch..
Custom interior...
X2 , if it's not a high HP engine being FI or anything just buy stockers instead of putting ARP stuff and Clev. 77 stuff in it, would be just a waste since it would be just over builded for what it is for. ou'll save at least $500 just on the ARP and Clev. 77 bearings etc. then buying just stock replacements. Like from Checker , Rock auto, GmPartsdirect.com(pricey on shipping) or just find a dealership.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
X2 , if it's not a high HP engine being FI or anything just buy stockers instead of putting ARP stuff and Clev. 77 stuff in it, would be just a waste since it would be just over builded for what it is for. ou'll save at least $500 just on the ARP and Clev. 77 bearings etc. then buying just stock replacements. Like from Checker , Rock auto, GmPartsdirect.com(pricey on shipping) or just find a dealership.
i agree, i think i would be very hard, if not almost impossible for a v6 camaro to make enough power to break stock main/head/rod bolts
replace them, but get stock ones, never re-use your old stretched bolts
The problem as I understand it is if you change the rod bolts you have to resize the rods. This is by far the most expensive rebuild I have ever done, and that is just for stock replacement parts. Now I understand why people just junk em and buy something elst. The cost of the gaskets alone for this motor is Insane.
TTY bolts actually stretched by giving them the correct torque sequence, every time you reuse them you stretch them out even more so the more they stretch the less reliable they are. The bolts aren't probably THAT much to replace, the cost of a bolt snapping off on a rod or main cap will be a lot more than replacing them now. I would recommend replacing them.
I'm with pumm3l, they should always be replaced. The expense of the bolts is minimal compared to the expense and headache of botching the job by re-using bolts that were not designed to be re-used. Plus, since they are stretched, you cannot get a correct torque reading with the used bolts.
To answer the question of having machine work done due to buying new bolts... from what I've uncovered, you only have to do that if you switch from factory fasteners, to high-strength fasteners such as the ARP bolts I linked you to... If you buy from GMpartsdirect.com you shouldn't need to make any modifications, but like I said, that's just from what I understand.
ARP reccomends having your parts "align-honed" when switching to high-strength fasteners. This is due to the different amount of torque reccomended, thus creating different tolerances and alignment. Basically, high-strength fasteners have a different torque rating than factory fasteners, so they will change the shape of the bore. If the new fasteners have a higher torque rating, which is likely, it will cause the bore to "oval" and they will need to be honed to correct it.
Don't take this as gospel, though, it's just the conclusion I've come to from a little diggin
Just did some more searching, and I found that switching from bolts to studs on the main caps makes it pretty much mandatory to align-hone the bore. Now, the question that I have is since our main caps also have the bolts on the sides, if there was a tolerance difference wouldn't it affect the alignment of these bolts?
are you asking if the align-hone will miss align the bolt holes on the main caps or asking if the using studs (without an align-hone) will miss align them?
Either way you probably wouldn't even notice it assembling the engine unless you took measurements, everything would bolt up just fine. The change in cylinder wall is so minuscule that the bolts would still line up but once you fired it up you could potentially have ring seal issues or even worse.
An align-hone will not miss align the bolt holes, they basically just bolt up a plate to the block and torque it down then hone the engine, not much to it.
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