Fuel Cooler installed - long post, with pic.

[viper98885]

So I decided to install a fuel cooler on my 3.4L. I figured that with the tank mounted above the muffler and the fact the the unused fuel travelling through the fuel rail, heating up and returning to the tank, would make for some relatively high fuel temps. Not hot enough to ignite, of course, but if it was cooled before entering the engine, more power will be produced.

I used a Perma-cool fuel cooler and Russel, Earl's and Aeroquip -AN fittings along with stainless steel reinforced hose and aluminum tubing to complete the plumbing.

Since I have removed my AC condensor, my options for a mounting position were very open. I decided to put it on the lower driver's side of the radiator where a lot of air could hit it.

From there, I used aluminum tubing and a tubing bender to do some custom plumbing. The aluminum piping connects to stainless steel braided -6AN lines. I chose to use these flexible lines in order to reduce any flex on aluminum piping during engine movement while under acceleration.

From the stainless hose, the lines are connected to the stock, nylon, black fuel sending line that comes out of the driver's side fender well.

After I had all of the correct fittings, installation was very simple. Also, since -AN fittings were used, the plumbing looks awesome and doesn't have teflon tape all over it.

Gains from this mod are about where I expected them to be. I started the car this afternoon, drove it around for a couple of minutes and then stopped and let the oil temp get to around 240 degrees and the water temp get to around 210 degrees. At this point, the engine usually feels more sluggish than when it is running at normal temps (160 water, 180-200 oil temps). I put the car under hard acceleration and could tell a nice difference in throttle response and it seemed to climb through the power band faster. The engine cooled faster also and at normal operating temps, I had the same results, faster acceleration and better throttle response.

I have not had this on a dyno or taken it to the track so I can't give numerical times, but from my honest opinion, it feels somewhat better than before the mod.

Fuel cooler lines - pic 1

Fuel cooler lines - pic 2

[black98V6]

cool... literally.. :D

[zccop2001]

Viper, your car is a 3.4 right? how did you manage to mount that intake up front?

lemme know, cause when i get a ram air hood, thats what i need to do..


dave

[viper98885]

I have the SLP Ram air hood. The airbox in the pic is SLP's box that goes with the hood. Air goes in the scoop and almost directly into the air box. Check the link in my sig for pics of the hood.

[Wicked 3800 V6]

Viper, how much was the fuel cooler project, in all?
And, while you're at it, do a powersteering cooler. That's next on my list. [img]smile.gif[/img] I'm using a 24" permacool prm-1003 ($34.99) cooler / kit (listed as frame rail trans cooler) to mount directly behind the air dam, from http://www.go-fast.org/z28/index.html resources, and actually talked to the guy. Chose this after evaluating 3 different install writeups, and this seemed the easiest / most effective.
If a fuel cooler is legal for AutoX, and cheap, a fuel cooler here I come
Later,
-Rob

[viper98885]

Well, the Aeroquip, Earl's and Russell fittings made the project expensive, but it looks nice. You could do the smae thing without these expensive -AN fittings. Here's a rundown of the parts and prices:

Permacool fuel cooler, Part number 1009, $35.99

Russell Twistlock Hose end Part number 624000 - $4.99 X 2

Anodized Flare reducer (-4AN..-6AN), Part number 661760 $4.69 X 2

Anodized hard tubing AN Adapters, Part number 639210 - $6.99 X 2

Anodized hard tubing AN Adapters, Part number 639200 - $6.99 X 2

2 Feet of -6AN stainless steel reinforced tubing - $12

25 ft. coil of 3/8" diameter aluminum fuel line, Part number 10800B, $24.99

I also installed a fuel pressure guage so I needed a pressure adapter guage ($8.69), guage ($20) and a swivel coupler($7.99).

The total of my setup was just over $150, but it could have been done for much less with brass fittings and standard rubber fuel hose.

[Wicked 3800 V6]

Viper,
You have always been very prompt and helpful in explaining all of your mods, and I speak from personal experience here. Thanks, from everyone!

And, since it's 20 questions, what's the 25 ft of fuel line for, if you've already got some AN tubing?

Where did you mount the gauge (probably what the tubing was needed for), and is it on the feed line to the engine? I didn't know that was pressurized. Wait, duh, where else would it be pressurized? ... lol ...

Is it not recommended to use the cheaper method, using rubber and brass? IE -- is your method just for looks? I'm going with the cheap method on my PS cooler, but have not made decisions about oil, fuel.

And it's a very nice looking, clean install. Good to hear you had good luck with the Permacool cooler.

Thanks again!

-Rob

[knowledgefreak]

can i just ask you something with out being rude or putting your taste down?

But why yellow on maroon?

[12secondv6]

Wow, that's really nice.
I wanted to do it but no one had done it before.
All I did was wrap all my fuel lines in thermo tech fuel line heat resistance wrap.
Your set up is much better.
You get [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]

[southern94]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by knowledgefreak:
can i just ask you something with out being rude or putting your taste down?

But why yellow on maroon?<hr></blockquote>

[img]graemlins/rofl.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/rofl.gif[/img] damn josh well i like it [img]tongue.gif[/img]

[viper98885]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>And, since it's 20 questions, what's the 25 ft of fuel line for, if you've already got some AN tubing?<hr></blockquote>

The aluminum fuel tubing has to be bought in bulk (25 feet) and I have a lot left over. I chose to run the aluminum tubing from the braided hose to the cooler itself because I could bend it the way that I want it and it would not flex and rub against the radiator or frame. You could very well run the braided line all the way (or rubber is you choose to do so) to the cooler, but I felt that this would work a little better. Honestly now that all is said and done, I don’t think that it would make any difference at all.

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Where did you mount the gauge (probably what the tubing was needed for),
and is it on the feed line to the engine? <hr></blockquote>

The gauge and cooler are both mounted on the sending line from the tank to the engine. It would not make much sense to cool the fuel running from the rail to the tank (return line). The line is pressurized. I was thinking that the pressure on that line would be somewhat higher than the pressure off of the fuel rail, but I have come to find out now that they read the same pressure. This does eliminate the need for the gauge off of the rail and will make for fewer fittings when the Nitrous Express wet kit is installed.

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Is it not recommended to use the cheaper method, using rubber and brass?
IE -- is your method just for looks? <hr></blockquote>

You could use either method when doing your setup. It is NOT necessary to use the expensive fittings, but there are some fittings in the setup that I have never seen in brass. This DOES NOT mean that the fittings don’t exist, but I have never seen them. I decided that I would stay uniform in the setup and run all anodized fittings instead of a little of each. Rubber and brass would work perfect in this situation if you could find all that you needed. I also wanted the anodized fittings because they look awesome and when I put the LS1 in, I want it to be showcar quality. In my opinion, the anodized fittings fit the bill better than bare rubber and brass.

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>I'm going with the cheap method on my PS cooler, but have not made decisions about oil, fuel.<hr></blockquote>

Either way, I think that you will be happy with the results and in any of the systems (oil, fuel, PS fluid), pressures and temperatures do not get high enough to REQUIRE braided hose and anodized fittings, but they sure do look nice.

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Can I just ask you something with out being rude or putting your taste down?
But why yellow on maroon?<hr></blockquote>

Everyone ahs their own opinions about what looks nice and what doesn’t. I have had a lot of positive and negative comments about the color scheme, as well as the spoiler and the euro-taillights. These options are what I think look nice and I do not take offense to negativity. I appreciate everyone’s honest opinions, but don’t look to see any changes in the color, spoiler or taillights. I am happy with my setup.

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Damn josh well I like it <hr></blockquote>

Thanks Matt.