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doesn't the lid pull air from in front of the radiator? and this would pull air from behind the radiator... even if you get more air, the air is gonna be hotter, thus less oxygen per volume... maybe better than bone stock, but prolly (like has been said) not better than the lid...
Rebuilding the engine... Building a custom front end... T-top conversion... Custom rear hatch..
Custom interior...
well the box is getting air from under the car yes. but its not DIRECTLy behind the radiator. haha no trans x for this one lol. I do have a chip in my windshield though....(maybe itll fix that lmao)
your probably right. probably not that much gain from stock...but it feels so much better at top end. literally feeels like the car isn't starving for air. I'm getting my camera charged right now. and pics will be up first thing tommorow.
oh and i can promise you its more than 3 or 4 hp from stock. probably less than ten. but i know its more than 4 lol
how is the stock lid shaved and all done up even close to a ram air anyways? with the hood closed. it covers the front completely and the only air it gets it from right in front of the radiator, I'm pretty logical and I'm actually calling BS on the FREE ram air deal.. once the air hits the radiator its instantly diffused. which causes the air to slow down but DOES not funnel it into the filter by any means. I don't know...the only ram air intake i will ever believe is either from a hood of mounted directly at wind, where THERE IS NO other rout for the air to take.
It sounds unnecessarily complicated to me. If you have a 98+ just go with the LID set up and sand down the fins and add some dryer hose or water tubing from Home depot for the silencer like pace mentioned.
By "water tubing" truekoa is referring to this product at Home Depot:
This stuff is 10X better than dryer vent. It can take the heat under the hood, is more rigid, so it doesn't just flop around, is flexible enough to make the engine to air filter housing connection, won't puncture, rip or tear like dryer vent, and has less restriction due to corrugation than dryer vent.
Truekoa and I both use this and it does work very well.
how is the stock lid shaved and all done up even close to a ram air anyways? with the hood closed. it covers the front completely and the only air it gets it from right in front of the radiator, I'm pretty logical and I'm actually calling BS on the FREE ram air deal.. once the air hits the radiator its instantly diffused. which causes the air to slow down but DOES not funnel it into the filter by any means. I don't know...the only ram air intake i will ever believe is either from a hood of mounted directly at wind, where THERE IS NO other rout for the air to take.
then get the scoop if you are worried about air over the radiator that goes in front of the radiator and directs it right at your filter. When your driving it is all cold air anyways coming across the front of the radiator, not going to warm up enough by the time it hits your lid.
oh and i can promise you its more than 3 or 4 hp from stock. probably less than ten. but i know its more than 4 lol
sorry, but you can't promise that. your butt dyno is not that accurate.
Back when I worked at a shop here that had a dyno we ran my car back to back runs with a lid, without a lid, with NOTHING attached, with the k/n intake and filter, with the stock air baffles and manifolds etc. We did this 3 times in one week and no matter what intake I had attached the HP gains were all extremely minimal. trust me it is HIGHLY unlikely your car magically is gaining anywhere near 10-15rwhp from some weird tubing setup
By "water tubing" truekoa is referring to this product at Home Depot:
This stuff is 10X better than dryer vent. It can take the heat under the hood, is more rigid, so it doesn't just flop around, is flexible enough to make the engine to air filter housing connection, won't puncture, rip or tear like dryer vent, and has less restriction due to corrugation than dryer vent.
Truekoa and I both use this and it does work very well.
The baffle delete cost me only $15 for materials and took 30 minutes to complete. Threw on a K&N air filter for another $30 and now my car runs 9s with the extra 350hp I gained ;)
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
Here is a pic. the pic from underneath didnt go through to the email. so ill get that tomorrow. IM actually thinking about making a metal shroud to go around the rubber hose. to insulate the air more :) h8.jpg
Last edited by thedetailman; 07-16-2010, 01:29 AM.
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