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Here are the differences in the a/c lines. I know the picture for the 97 is correct, but I'm not sure about the 01. The pictures are from auto zones web site. Note the difference in the ends that attach to the condensor and dryer. They are different, so swapping lines would mean swapping everything else.
Are you going to bend your lines? Or convert your ac system?
I will bend the lines. I will probably rent a tubing bender after my dismal failure with the oil dipstick. I hope to look at that this week sometime. From what i have read in the other threads it dosent take much of a bend to get clearance. Basically you dont want them touching so if its not much I will try and bend by hand. I'm not sure what kind of picture I can get of them though, its pretty cramped down there.....
I will bend the lines. I will probably rent a tubing bender after my dismal failure with the oil dipstick. I hope to look at that this week sometime. From what i have read in the other threads it dosent take much of a bend to get clearance. Basically you dont want them touching so if its not much I will try and bend by hand. I'm not sure what kind of picture I can get of them though, its pretty cramped down there.....
Well I will have the engine out of my car, but I dont want to disconnect the AC compressor from the lines. Im hoping I can bend them slightly while everything is still connected. It'd be nice to see how someone bent theirs before I do it, but I understand about taking a pic. It is pretty cramped if the engine is still in the car.
I had the engine out as well since I had to completely replace it. I also left my a/c with the car to keep from having to get it recharged.
Today was another failure. I broke one of the lines trying to bend it. I apparently had a leak somewhere as there was not much pressure left in the system. The lines hit the front cylinder tube on the manifolds. It holds the compressor out 2" from the mounting brackets. I dont know if they could be bent enough to work or not. The one that goes closest to the block has that large canister on it and made it difficult to work with. I tried bending them by hand, I didnt have access to a tubing bender.
I'm going to either switch everything over or have a custom lines made that will give me some clearance. I'm going to eat a little crow here and say, keep the log mainfolds. This is a big PIA, since I have broken the EGR, the A/C lines and still have to modifiy the y-pipe. The A/C is not a big deal right now since its getting cold, so I have time to fix it as $$ allows...
Sorry to hear that man! It sounds like Ill need to pull ac lines from an 01up car, the oil dipstick and make sure to get the stock ypipe that goes with the manifolds. Argh its so frustrating that changing from logs caused that much of a change in parts. I appreciate your thread though. Its the most straight forward on this that Ive seen. Ill be doing an L26 swap as soon as I get back from vacation. I plan on making a detailed swap thread on that. Keep up the good posts, and good luck.
The primaries on the tubular manifolds look to be about as long as those on shorty headers, so I guess there could be some gains to it, but shorty headers are a waist of money anyway.
Longtube headers are always the way to go for power though, but if the scratch isn't there then this is the next option. And at least this way you shouldn't have any exhaust leak problems at the collector flanges that plague many guys (including myself....) on this forum.
With this, 4 fittings and some hose I can make my own hoses and keep my factory accumulator and condenser. This will cost about $100, but will be much cheaper than converting everything since a new 00+ condenser alone is $184.... :eek:
With this, 4 fittings and some hose I can make my own hoses and keep my factory accumulator and condenser. This will cost about $100, but will be much cheaper than converting everything since a new 00+ condenser alone is $184.... :eek:
You might check rock auto. I looked on there and the 01+ AC hose was even cheaper. Just depends if they have any in stock. :)
You did see from the pictures that you will have to change more than just the lines right? The fittings on the accumulator and condenser and different as well. You cant just put the 00+ lines on an older car and be good to go. The other two will need to be changed as well. Thats why I'm looking into making the lines myself.
Rock auto has good prices, their shipping however is high and thats how they make it up. Most of the time that makes their price the same as getting it local for me...
So the L26 is in and running as of today. Trying to mod the y-pipe to fit and guess what (Pewter02Camaro already knows...) the y-pipe is 2" OD, but it has another pipe that is 1.75" OD inside it! I'm still chopping on it and trying to make it fit (no sense stopping now, lol), but you really need a 00+ y-pipe too.
Not only do you have to narrow it 2" from the pics I posted earlier, you also have to raise it about 3" or it will be on the ground with the car sitting still. It is also pushed back to the rear of the car to much right now, but I havent taken the length out of the down tube on the pass side to raise it up yet. I'm hoping that will shorten it just enough so I dont have it in 5 pieces.
Long story short, keep the logs. If you want to change go with some type of header. I will make it work, probably with a custom or 00+ y-pipe but this is a huge PIA!!!!
You could do a custom A/C line if you wanted , Nappa sent mine out to a place here in PHX , which puts it out of the way of the front of the engine. I have pics somewhere I posted. Its was like $65 for the hose and $50 to modify it. It makes a great opening/room for a front mount turbo too. Well worth the price, Nappa has the best prices on the hoses and accumulators, I think I paid $35 for a accumulator from Nappa, Autozone and checker wanted like twice as much for the same part. Bluex I would just go with some used headers or some Pacesetters since they will come with the Y pipe and you'll het some better gains with them also. Good luck.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
Well I got the y-pipe fixed at a local muffler shop for $60. I have attached a picture of how low it was hanging before modfications.
I also fixed my egr leak with a 00+ egr base. I found it at the local pick your part on new years eve during there half price sale. That cost me $8. It fit just fine and fell into place just like the stock 97 one did. It was just the base that I bought and my stock egr valve itself bolted right up. Only thing I didnt get to was resetting the code I have for the egr itself.
I have been driving the car for a little over 3 months and its averaging 26-27 mpg, even without the cat, or 4th O2 and a leaking egr, so I'm very happy with it. I havent worked on the a/c issue yet since its currently winter, but I will update this with the way I fix it when I do.
Hello, I am new to the group and am posing a question about the 2000-2002 "tubular" Camaro/Firebird 3800 exhaust manifolds. Why are they called tubular? I have had many come across my path to examine, and they were all regular castings, not tubular like in the sense of the rear manifold, like on say a Pontiac GTP with a FWD. I see where they appear to be smoother flowing than the 1995-1999 ramhorn style. If there was an actual factory tubular manifold, I need to locate a pair, mainly for the flanges and exhaust pipe stubs. Thanks in advance.
I would try ebay or TAcreations for a set if your going that route. I would pick up some Pacesetters if your looking for more performance.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
If you're looking for a set of stainless flanges for the 3800 Series 2, check out stainlessworks.net. They offer them for a good price. Not sure what you mean by 'pipe stubs', but if you mean the header collectors, they have those for V6's as well. If you mean flanges with a short section or 'stub' for the primaries, you could probably have them put together a set for you.
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