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  • 3.4 Header Questions (Pictures)

    I need help. The Chilton's guide is a peice of trash and won't help me in this area.

    I need to slide this out of the way:

    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...i01/acedit.jpg

    So that I can get to the right side exhaust bolts.

    Now, I am told that these bolts will release freeon:

    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...i01/freeon.jpg

    Are the bolts I need to loosen under the A/C Pulley?

    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...8-3841_IMG.jpg


    I can't seem to get this plate off, either:

    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/digi01/plate.jpg
    I need to get the engine oil dipstick and holder out, so that i can remove the sheild that is guarding the bolt so I can remove the larger shield, keeping me from getting to one of the final manifold bolts.

    Also, I can't find which fina; bolts are holding the stock manifolds in place. Is it just the y-pipe connection?


    I must look like a real dumbass.

    [ November 26, 2005, 07:45 PM: Message edited by: fast 3.4 ]
    K&N CAI, Magnaflow High Flow Cat, Flowmaster American Thunder 2.5\" Cat-back exhaust w/ 40 series Muffler (single piped exit), Pacesetter Midlength Headers, TB Bypass.<br /><br />Vid of my 3.4 - <a href=\"http://media.putfile.com/Headers49\" target=\"_blank\">http://media.putfile.com/Headers49</a>

  • #2
    The Haynes manual isn't much better.

    For moving the compressor, it says to discharge the system first. Then there is the electrical connector, remove the serpentine belt, disconnect the suction and discharge lines (mounted to the back of the compressor with a plate secured by one bolt). Plug the open fittings to prevent the entry of dirt and moisture, and discared the seals between the plate and compressor. Unbolt and remove the rear compressor mount. Remove the compressor-to-front-bracket bolts and nuts and lower the compressor from the engine compartment.

    So it does not talk about any bolts under the pulley. The compressor-to-front bolts it is talking about might be those ones you have circled, but you say pulling those will release refrigerant?

    In the chapter dealing with removing the exhaust manifolds it also has this to say:

    While working from underneath, remove the last two bolts on the exhaust manifold and the rear bolt of the air conditioning compressor mount. Lower the vehicle, and unbolt and set aside the sair conditioning compressor and brackets.

    Were you able to get the Y-pipe bolts removed?
    1994 Firebird 3.4<br />15.65 @ 86.8<br /><a href=\"http://www.funkz.net/firebird.htm\" target=\"_blank\">funkz.net/firebird</a><br /><a href=\"http://mywebpages.comcast.net/funkz/timeslips.htm\" target=\"_blank\">Timeslips</a>

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    • #3
      I loosened one of the bolts that was circled (the one on the left) and green stuff under pressure shot out, so I very quickly tightened it back. I hope that's not what it means by "discharging the system".

      Funny, in my Chilton's it only says "do not attempt to remove it, doing so without a certified mechanic will result in a 25k fine...", or somethnig along those lines. Not even telling me what to watch out for.

      And no, I have not yet been able to remove the Y-Pipe bolts. They are just in such a tight space. I have only removed one nut on the left side of the y pipe fastner near the manifold from underneath the car.

      Thanks for the help so far, I'll keep you updated. Hopefully next week my 2-book factory manuals will come and it will be a lot more help.
      K&N CAI, Magnaflow High Flow Cat, Flowmaster American Thunder 2.5\" Cat-back exhaust w/ 40 series Muffler (single piped exit), Pacesetter Midlength Headers, TB Bypass.<br /><br />Vid of my 3.4 - <a href=\"http://media.putfile.com/Headers49\" target=\"_blank\">http://media.putfile.com/Headers49</a>

      Comment


      • #4
        Well, yeah the old R12 stuff is supposed to eat holes in the ozone layer or something, so you're supposed to capture it, not release it into the atmosphere.

        Maybe something from the huge repair manual or one of the service sections would help...

        http://www.fullthrottlev6.com/forums...repair_manuals

        From the sounds of it there should be just one bolt in the rear that attaches the compressor to a bracket?

        [ November 26, 2005, 11:14 PM: Message edited by: FunkZ ]
        1994 Firebird 3.4<br />15.65 @ 86.8<br /><a href=\"http://www.funkz.net/firebird.htm\" target=\"_blank\">funkz.net/firebird</a><br /><a href=\"http://mywebpages.comcast.net/funkz/timeslips.htm\" target=\"_blank\">Timeslips</a>

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        • #5
          ok to remove the compressor there sould be a small plate that is rest on with two bolts but you will have to remove the bracket(the one that hold every thing) there is one bolt a the bottem with a gournd wire hope this helps or makes sense i will try to get pics
          94 3.4 camaro m5<br />mods-- B&M ripper shifter, TB bypass, <br />here\'s my vid-- <a href=\"http://video.ls1tech.com/Player.aspx?fileid=8E16D909-7766-41B1-BC2A-EBCCB9111EDD&term=3.4&p=0\" target=\"_blank\">http://video.ls1tech.com/Player.aspx?fileid=8E16D909-7766-41B1-BC2A-EBCCB9111EDD&term=3.4&p=0</a>

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          • #6
            As long as none of the other bolts release or discharge freeon, or I can do it without discharging the system, I will attempt it. My dad just doesn't want me messing with it.
            K&N CAI, Magnaflow High Flow Cat, Flowmaster American Thunder 2.5\" Cat-back exhaust w/ 40 series Muffler (single piped exit), Pacesetter Midlength Headers, TB Bypass.<br /><br />Vid of my 3.4 - <a href=\"http://media.putfile.com/Headers49\" target=\"_blank\">http://media.putfile.com/Headers49</a>

            Comment


            • #7
              you do not need to unbolt the AC. you can remove and install the old manifold and new headers with it still in place.

              ...and get that engine bay and motor cleaned up. It will make the job easier and will compliment your new headers. [img]tongue.gif[/img]
              ---94 Camaro-L32--- <br />\"Don\'t hate the playr, Hate tha GAME!!\" <a href=\"http://members.cox.net/jeanda_sd/SD_L32/SD300L32.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cox.net/jeanda_sd/SD_L32/SD300L32.jpg</a> <br /> <a href=\"http://members.cox.net/jeanda_sd/SD_L32/100_0022.JPG\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cox.net/jeanda_sd/SD_L32/100_0022.JPG</a> <a href=\"http://members.cox.net/jeanda_sd/SD_L32/L32flipmode.wmv\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cox.net/jeanda_sd/SD_L32/L32flipmode.wmv</a>

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              • #8
                not necessary to unbolt ac

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                • #9
                  It's not necessary, but definitely makes things easier. Your system should be 134, not R12. There should be a sticker under your hood that tells whether it's 134 or R12.
                  - Josh<br />If you have any questions or need installation pics/help, e-mail me: Viper98885@aol.com<br /><a href=\"http://Camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/viper98885\" target=\"_blank\">\'93 Camaro Hardtop</a><br /><a href=\"http://Camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/01lincolnls8\" target=\"_blank\">\'01 Lincoln LS8 Sport</a><br />\'00 Yamaha YZF-R6<br /><a href=\"http://www.ftpp.net\" target=\"_blank\">Full Throttle Performance</a>

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