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  • Throttle body experiment, Grand prix TB

    Ok right now I have the FWD TB bolted on (only two of the bolts line up). I have RTV sealing up any possible air leaks. I switched the throttle linkage set ups.

    When I first installed and started it up it would run away jump up to 5000+ rpm. I removed all the sensors, and throttle linkages and it still did the same thing. Then I switched my old sensors into the new TB -same result.

    I then heavily RTV'd where any possible leaks could be now it goes from 500- 1200 rpm and acts like it wants to die.

    I'm going to go swap in the new (GP) sensors again and reinstall the TB screen. I'm also thinking that the blade might not be heavy enough, might switch in the birds old tb blade (if it fits). Nope didn't work. Even when mashing the gas peddle.

    Any suggestions or theories would be greatly appreciated. By the way I do NOT recommend this mod. Too many problems.

    [ May 24, 2003: Message edited by: Mr. Spock ]

    [ May 24, 2003: Message edited by: Mr. Spock ]</p>

  • #2
    Just out of curiosity why would you want to change your throttle body? Does the FWD throttle body have some kind of advantage? Why not just P&P your current one?

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    • #3
      The Grand Prix one has no maf tower. . . . also happened to have one and got bored so . . .

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      • #4
        Welll..... If thats the case then carry on!!!

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        • #5
          props for tryin something different
          2000 Firebird 3.8, auto, flowmaster 80, taillight blackouts, 02 formula swaybars, poly endlinks and energy support bushings, 1 1/2in cut springs

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          • #6
            Don't the GPs have the electronic TB??
            <a href=\"http://pics.projectpredator.com/thumbnails.php?album=16\" target=\"_blank\">2003 Zinc Yellow Mustang GT</a> 1 of 701<br />ET : TBD<br />But our shenanigans are cheeky and fun! Yeah, and his shenanigans are cruel and tragic. Which... makes t

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            • #7
              This one uses the cables. I swapped back on my old TB, but now I'm having an odd problem. When I get on the throttle It keeps accelerating and wont stop until I turn the engine off.

              I think it might be because of the lighter TB blade I swapped in from the other TB (for quicker throttle response :rolleyes: ) Maybe it's too light to close when air is rushing in (which would explain why it wont do this sitting still). I'm going to try swapping in the heavier springs to counter this. Nope not it.

              For those of you going to extremes with weight reductions our TB blade weighs about 10 ounces more than the other one.

              [ May 26, 2003: Message edited by: Mr. Spock ]

              [ May 26, 2003: Message edited by: Mr. Spock ]</p>

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              • #8
                I did something similar. except from a GTP to an LS1 TB. You HAVE to have an autotap or some sort of datalogger to get it to work. I also would be very concerned that RTV might not be good enough to keep the engine from sucking in coolant. THAT WOULD BE BAD!!

                Just fab up an adapter plate, it will save you some of these headaches.

                DEE
                1997 GTP(13.3@104)-Sold<br />1999 Trans Am M6

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                • #9
                  Now the acceleration problem is happening with both TBs. Any time I do more than part throttle driving the engine will just start accelerating and wont stop unless I shut it down. Not good definetly not good. I had the other TB working except this same problem and now my old one is doing the same thing what the hell is going on??

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                  • #10
                    The return spring, when correctly engaged, should firmly snap the throttle back. More than enough to counter the weight of any throttle blade.

                    If the spring is not quite right, then at idle there may be enough pressure to close the throttle because there is very little air flowing through it, but going down the road, there's a lot more air going through and could be holding it open.

                    That's the only thing I can think of right now...
                    \'98 A4 Camaro v6-&gt;v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>

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                    • #11
                      The springs are installed correctly and the blade will snap closed when released. Last time it did this I pulled the gas pedal up just to make sure something wasn't happening there (which had no effect still had to shut it down to get it to stop). I don't understand how it will do this just under rapid acceleration and not when I'm going a certain speed or above that speed. . . .Just tested this I can go 75 with out this happening at all. Just takes a little while to get up to that speed when keeping the rpms around 2500.

                      [ May 26, 2003: Message edited by: Mr. Spock ]</p>

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                      • #12
                        That is really weird.

                        And when you shut it down, that's all you have to do? You don't have to jiggle or pull anything? Just start it back up and everything is fine again?

                        I was thinking something is sticking, but if so, it would still be stuck when you shut down...
                        \'98 A4 Camaro v6-&gt;v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>

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                        • #13
                          nothing sticking just shut it down and start right back up. I have heard of some after market cruise controls doing things like this. So my next step is to remove that circuit breaker.
                          Wow long weird day. .

                          And that didn't even work! ???????!

                          [ May 26, 2003: Message edited by: Mr. Spock ]</p>

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                          • #14
                            Finally figured this one out. The screws that secure the TB blade were not tight enough. That allowed the blade to wigle a little and the actual blade would get stuck open. Doh! all that and it was something that simple.

                            [ June 01, 2003: Message edited by: Mr. Spock ]</p>

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                            • #15
                              I'm glad you got it figured out!

                              I thought about mentioning the blade might have been flipped around, with the taper the wrong way, but that would make it stick when first pressing the gas, not when it was already open.
                              \'98 A4 Camaro v6-&gt;v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>

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