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  • Welcome to Projekt EGR Tube!!!

    When your replacing your EGR and your getting the bolt off of the little pipe that conects your manifold to the EGR and you brake the shank inside the manifold.

    To see what im talking about look at this picture:
    Here

    Now this is the deal. The angle is facing towards the driver's side wheel well. I can't even fit a small dremel in there at this angle let alone a drill. I can use a right-angled drill, however I still can't fit a center punch down in there so there is no point. I don't think using something like JBweld or any other kind of RTV will hold the plate there. The only thing I can think of is taking the manifold completely off by cutting it, then getting it out, and welding it back on... which I do not want to do. I'm going to take it to nucar pontiac tomorrow and see what they think. For now I have it clamped on there, and it still leaks a little from the bottom.

    [ November 21, 2002: Message edited by: Ted ]

    [ November 23, 2002: Message edited by: Ted ]</p>

  • #2
    time and a good extractor will get it out..jusr be really easy with it...also use a square type extracotr instead of a corkscrew looking one...i just broke the blot that holds the tensioner pulley on...lol..looks like were in somewhat the same boat [img]smile.gif[/img]
    96 A4 Camaro<br />15.51 1/4

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    • #3
      ok before you do anything......go to the store and get like 2 packages of J.B. Weld. C-clamp the thing together and just smear that crap all over your connections but dont get it on the clamp or you wont get that off. Trust me , this stuff is so very under rated , after it bonds overnight take off your clamp and check for leaks and where ever it might leak , put more on and then when your all done paint the weld black so it looks decent , all in all this may cost like 15 bucks so do this first before droping mad cash...... [img]graemlins/crybaby.gif[/img]
      {1995 3.8 A4}{Flowmaster Exhaust}{SLP CAI & Fan Switch}{4 Wheel Disc Brakes}(3.42 LSD}<br /><br />{2004 Dodge Dakota SXT 3.7L SOHC V6}{Cold Air Intake}{Dynomax Ultraflo 2.5\" Catback}<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/95blackbird3800\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cardomain.com/95blackbird3800</a>

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      • #4
        well supossedly you should be able th weld anything with it. you could always try that liquid muffler mender , i have used that for some things.

        arent our radiators plastic on that part? maybe it would work different on metal?

        i used it on my exhaust system and i am really happy with it , stuff dried hard as a rock , just make sure that the surface is rough or it will come off , at this point what do you have to lose?
        {1995 3.8 A4}{Flowmaster Exhaust}{SLP CAI & Fan Switch}{4 Wheel Disc Brakes}(3.42 LSD}<br /><br />{2004 Dodge Dakota SXT 3.7L SOHC V6}{Cold Air Intake}{Dynomax Ultraflo 2.5\" Catback}<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/95blackbird3800\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cardomain.com/95blackbird3800</a>

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        • #5
          Welcome to Project EGR Tube

          Plan A: Take it to the dealer and have them get it out. Nucar can't look at it until monday and they said they would need to take the whole manifold off. No other repair shop wants to do it. All said i will need to take it off.

          Plan B: Use muffler mender and a small 1in. clamp. I let it sit for 3 hours with it clamped tight. I started up the car and exhaust is still leaking. I would need to have the clamp on there because the pipe wants to come out, it doesn't sit in there so there is a lot of pressure that is going to be on the mender which is why it won't hold.

          Plan C: The bolt is roughly 1/4in diameter on the shank size. And a little under 1.5in. in length. Since I can't fit the drill bit in the dremel, i cant use a dremel with a right angle joint. So I will buy one of those jointed drills and drill it out. Then rethread it. This is my last option so hopefully it will work. And of course after 3 hours in home depot it won't. I only have 4 inches of clearance, no right angle drill (no matter how expensive), no angle adapter, nothing will work. And the stuff that might work? Won't have enough power to cut through stainless steel.

          Plan D: Our next plan of attack is to cut a slant into the shank and turn it out with a screwdriver. We got a really small dremel bit and cut about 3/16 into it. After custom making our own wrenching stubby screwdriver we still can't get it out after years of rust. I have 3 of the best car guys i know over my house and we're all out of good ideas.

          Plan E: Welcome to plan E... Plan E will be to tac weld the plate onto the manifold then use muffler mender to seal around any other opened cracks. Plan E sounds like a winner so we will see what happens today.

          Plan F: Hopefully we will never see plan F, Plan f is to take the manifold off but cutting it, then drilling the bolt out then reassembling it. Sounds a little drastic for a bolt, but it might come down to this.

          [ November 23, 2002: Message edited by: Ted ]</p>

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