got problem... need some 3.4l EGR, and removal of sanpped bolt techniques... - FirebirdV6.com/CamaroV6.com Message Board

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got problem... need some 3.4l EGR, and removal of sanpped bolt techniques...

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  • got problem... need some 3.4l EGR, and removal of sanpped bolt techniques...

    I have had this problem once or twice befoe, bolts holding the EGR on coming loose, and they burning up my igniotn wirtes on passenger side.

    Either way, the bolt snapped it self I was oging to tighten it, but as soon as I hit it, fell off, and I saw it was broken, andy tips on how to get the rest of the bolt out? I was thinking of jsut trying to weld it to the exhasut manifold.

    also wondering are there any !egr. thinking blocking it off at exhaust manifold and upper intake plenum but keeping it plugged in would work?


    Any ideas?

  • #2
    Get a reverse or backout drill bit. Th will allow you to put a screw in and back the broken scfrew out.

    Once it's out use lock tite on the bolts.
    94 Quasar Blue Z28<br /><a href=\"http://www.9t4z28.com\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.9t4z28.com</a><br /><a href=\"http://www.9t4z28.com/Dyno1.htm\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.9t4z28.com/Dyno1.htm</a>

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    • #3
      I made a blockoff plate for my EGR system on both ends and I don't get an EGR light. There are 2 ways to do this...
      Get a piece of sheet metal, preferably steel and cut it with a dremel tool. Use the gasket as a template.
      Or, take a piece of sheet metal to a machine shop and have them do the same.

      They piece will almost definitely look better, but if you do it yourself, it's less money.

      [ December 09, 2002: Message edited by: viper98885 ]</p>
      - Josh<br />If you have any questions or need installation pics/help, e-mail me: Viper98885@aol.com<br /><a href=\"http://Camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/viper98885\" target=\"_blank\">\'93 Camaro Hardtop</a><br /><a href=\"http://Camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/01lincolnls8\" target=\"_blank\">\'01 Lincoln LS8 Sport</a><br />\'00 Yamaha YZF-R6<br /><a href=\"http://www.ftpp.net\" target=\"_blank\">Full Throttle Performance</a>

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      • #4
        Welding to cast iron is a pain in the neck. Especially when attempting to weld a different type of metal to it. Better to remove what is left of the bolts and go from there. I did the same thing to my 2.8 and it works fine. It used to throw a code ONLY if I remained above 3500 for an extended period of time. I just had my brother reprogram the PROM to erase code 32. As for the rest of the EGR circuit, I remove all of that too. It seemed like a possible vacuum leak waiting to happen. Plus it opens up the passenger side of your engine compartment!
        Jim

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        • #5
          it woudl be cast iron-cast iron...

          I iwll give a everseou out kit a try but it will be a pain do to it being a exhaust manifold bolt which really like to get stuck and hard to move, and the original bolt broke on its own so.... the metal is a bound to be fragile as hell... I almost wish it was my fault and I over torqued ti might have less trouble getting a bolt like that out.

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