Ok, I'm really pissed right now. I went to go over my intake to see if I could find out why my SES light was on. When I pulled my lid off I saw that right above my radiator the bottom of the dryer duct had split open :mad: Apparently it wasn't flexible enough and split at the seam. I yanked the mangled contraption off and ran my fingers across the maf screen to find a layer of dust/dirt on it. How long I've been sucking unfiltered air I don't know but it was far to long for my likeing. I've replaced the duct with some aluminum foil duct that I've seen other on here with. My question is what could this have done to my engine and are there any measures I can take to reduce any possible damage or clean out what has been sucked in? Stupid stupid dryer duct!!!!
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Running without filter?!?!?!
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Running without filter?!?!?!
1998 Red RS 3.8l A4<br /> Whisper - K&N - N20 - 1LE Panhard - Ghetto STB - 255/50ZR16 Ecsta<br /> Removed grille - Limo tint - blackouts - A-pillar cf a/f ratio<br /> Panasonic DF88 - 1 12\" Eclipse 88120.4 - Eclipse 3322 amp<p><a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/raven_rs\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cardomain.com/raven_rs</a>Tags: None
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quit going w/ homemade mods!!! get a whisper lid and be done w/ it. also, while the intake is off, get rid of the maf screen. it is just another restriction. if the ZO6 vettes can run w/o one, so can we. just make sure the filter seals the air box. some dumbass didn't set the filter in right when i had my car in to change the oil( i got lazy that time) and I sucked in a piece of lint that go stuck in the maf sensor.2001 Arctic White Firebird<br />T-Tops, 3.42 rear gear stock<br />Mods:K&N Air Filter,Whisper Air Induction Lid, maf screen removed, raised air box, Kumho Ecsta 712 255-50-ZR16 tires, BMR stb<br />Mods not installed yet: FTRA, SLP Lsd/Differential cover<br />Near Future Mods: HPP3, GMMG 3\" Exhaust , 1LE Swaybars, Transgo Shift Kit, MSD-DIS-4 w/ Accel Coil-Packs, Turquoise Blue Neon Underbody Kit, BMR Adj. LCA\'s, G2 Sfc\'s & V-braces, Pacesetter headers
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I'm a cheap skate, what can I say? Any ways It's fixed almost for certain now. I'm not willing to pay 100+ for something that I have already basically done. Isn't that just dryer duct on the lid anyways? thats what it looked like in the pic on ThunderRacing. Anyways I'm not worried about that, I'm worried about what I have done to my engine.
Oh and I'm not going to remove my maf. That has controversy over whether or not it really does any good. Thats more of a risk than I'm willing to take for something that MIGHT give me a performance increase.
[ April 16, 2002: Message edited by: RaVeN1469 ]</p>1998 Red RS 3.8l A4<br /> Whisper - K&N - N20 - 1LE Panhard - Ghetto STB - 255/50ZR16 Ecsta<br /> Removed grille - Limo tint - blackouts - A-pillar cf a/f ratio<br /> Panasonic DF88 - 1 12\" Eclipse 88120.4 - Eclipse 3322 amp<p><a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/raven_rs\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cardomain.com/raven_rs</a>
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by RaVeN1469:
Apparently it wasn't flexible enough and split at the seam...
My question is what could this have done to my engine and are there any measures I can take to reduce any possible damage or clean out what has been sucked in?<hr></blockquote>
I have thought about doing the dryer duct on my '98, just to get rid of that awful hose routing and silencer, but have not been confident in the strength of the dryer duct. I did find some alternate hoses at ihozs.com, they were kind of high price though, unless you could find somebody to share a 6' section with.
Back to your question, you have probably moved whatever dust/dirt through and out of the system, there is probably not any lingering in your cylinders. Your oil may have a little bit in it that got past the rings, and an oil and filter change should clear it up.
Whatever abrasion was done to your cylinder walls and rings is done. Hopefully not much, depending on how long your tubing was split, and if you were driving on gravel or dirt roads...\'98 A4 Camaro v6->v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>
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i can understand being cheap but how cheap will it be when your engine turns to ****2001 SOM Camaro SS<p>Direct flo lid---Lakewood LCAs----Edelbrock Torque Arm-----Lous Short Stick---Dynomouth 3\" Exhaust---SLP Center Mount Exhaust---Poly tranny and torque arm mounts.<p>My site....http://community.webshots.com/album/49413018hRfdbP
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shadly, dirt particles are far smaller than the holes in the MAF
even with the MAF there only a tiny bit of the dirt would remain behind...
most of it will still go throughR.I.P \'99 Firebird, you will be missed<p>New toy - 2001 GSXR-750, Yoshimura Exhaust, Power Commander, Rebuilt Airbox
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Patrick Javert:
quit going w/ homemade mods!!! get a whisper lid and be done w/ it. also, while the intake is off, get rid of the maf screen. it is just another restriction. if the ZO6 vettes can run w/o one, so can we. just make sure the filter seals the air box. some dumbass didn't set the filter in right when i had my car in to change the oil( i got lazy that time) and I sucked in a piece of lint that go stuck in the maf sensor.<hr></blockquote>
if u keep the dryer ducct stuffs DO NOT REMOVE THE MAF SCREEN! if u haden't had it on, u'd have been screwed<b>*§*Julian*§*</b><br />*~*~*~<br />2000 Grand Prix GTP -Daytona 500 Edition (only 2000 made) - Supercharged 3.8L V6<br /><br />1998 3.8L V6 A4 Firebird w/ W68 package, Y87, T-TOPS!<br /><br /><a href=\"http://myweb.usf.edu/~jadidona/index.html\" target=\"_blank\">MY SITE - CHECK IT!</a>
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Silent Majority:
Do it right, get the Whisper Lid and be done with it...<hr></blockquote>
For the people who keep saying this, the original post was about the intake tubing from the lid to the tb. Have y'all seen that mess on a '98, it's awful.
So those of us with the '98 have a challenge to somewhat straighten that hose (and somewhat is the key word, because no matter what, you still end up with a big s-curve arrangement. And you have to do something creative in order to get rid of the silencer. The lid does nothing for the hose problem...\'98 A4 Camaro v6->v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>
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i thought that the whisper lid came with tubing that gets rid of the silencers? atleast thats what i heard.....Street Lethal Performance<br />2000 Black Firebird Y87<br />3.42\'s, Torsen Limited Slip, 160 powerstat,<br />Manual Fan Switch, Cutout exhaust, Whisper Ram Air CAI,<br />K&N filter, Zex spark plugs, MSD plug wires, MAF screen removed.<p>AIM: FIREBIRDRUMBLE00<br /><a href=\"http://www.streetlethalperformance.com/profiles/gazmentselman/gazmentselman.html\" target=\"_blank\">Street Lethal Performance Profile</a>
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Good point, since the oval outlet on the stock lid is 4" circumference, and I believe the round outlet on the whisper is 3", so they would have to replace at least some of the tubing, if not all of it. I haven't seen a pic of one on a '98 yet to see what they do about the routing, but I've heard it increases the bending because the lid outlet sticks further out.\'98 A4 Camaro v6->v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by John_D.:
I haven't seen a pic of one on a '98 yet to see what they do about the routing, but I've heard it increases the bending because the lid outlet sticks further out.<hr></blockquote>
Here's a B&W photo I took last year for photography.
http://home.cfl.rr.com/mkaprocki/Camaro/whisper.jpg
MattMatt
1998 Mystic Teal Camaro M5
Whisper Lid, Pacesetter Headers, Catco Cat, Dynomax Super Turbo, B&M Shifter, BMR STB, LSD, P&P Intakes, GT2 Cam, Comp OE Lifters, 1.7 Roller Rockers, Pushrods, SSM Heads, DHP PowrTuner.
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I didn't know this post got moved, thought it just dissapeared. In fact I don't think I've ever noticed a intake/exhaust forum on here. Guess i should look around more often. But honestly would someone tell me how a whisper lid will help me here? yes I am cheap in the fact that I just modified my lid. But what are they gonna do for the god awfull curve your left with? Like the picture on thunderracing.com and the pic that was just posted, that looks like fancy dryer duct to me. Even though your not going to convince me to spend $130 on a new lid you might as well explain why it's a good idea for someone else that might read this post. Are you seriously going to see much hp increase? What advantage does it have over removing the fins, it appears to have a higher lid but how much higher, the opening looks to be bigger but how much bigger? Personally from the power gain I got from my cheap dryer duct I wouldn't doubt it if most of what the people who spent the money on the lid are feeling is from the silencer not being there. And I highly doubt I'll run into the problem of the duct breaking again, last time it was because I used actual aluminum but it couldn't make the bend and split.
Now heres something I need help in. I'm gonna be putting in NOS and need something other than duct to put the nozzle in. So if anyone can come up with a better idea I am very willing to try it. I was thinking PVC but those bends would be hard to make.1998 Red RS 3.8l A4<br /> Whisper - K&N - N20 - 1LE Panhard - Ghetto STB - 255/50ZR16 Ecsta<br /> Removed grille - Limo tint - blackouts - A-pillar cf a/f ratio<br /> Panasonic DF88 - 1 12\" Eclipse 88120.4 - Eclipse 3322 amp<p><a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/raven_rs\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cardomain.com/raven_rs</a>
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i dont think being cheap and trying make your car faster is a good combination.... i hear building model cars is a fun hobby......or how bout collecting hotwheels... :DStreet Lethal Performance<br />2000 Black Firebird Y87<br />3.42\'s, Torsen Limited Slip, 160 powerstat,<br />Manual Fan Switch, Cutout exhaust, Whisper Ram Air CAI,<br />K&N filter, Zex spark plugs, MSD plug wires, MAF screen removed.<p>AIM: FIREBIRDRUMBLE00<br /><a href=\"http://www.streetlethalperformance.com/profiles/gazmentselman/gazmentselman.html\" target=\"_blank\">Street Lethal Performance Profile</a>
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by ssms5411Haven’t done anything on the Camaro, but put LEDs on my truck headlights . And my oil pressure sensor went out on the truck so going to fix that this...5 days ago
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