I was thinking of getting the MAFT+, but then I saw ZZP's Mini-AFC for only $99. Does anyone have any opinions as to which one is better?
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ZZP Mini-AFC or MAFT+
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ZZP Mini-AFC or MAFT+
97 Silver Camaro M5<br />Y87 Package<br />K&N FIPK<br />Flowmaster 80 Series<br />Mille Miglia MM11-2 18x9 wheels<br />Kumho ECSTA 275/35ZR 18s<br />Centerforce Dual Friction<br />B&M Ripper Shifter<br />1LE Aluminum DS<br />BMR LCA\'S<br />SLP 1.8 Rockers<br />ZZP UD WP Pulley<br />H&R Sport Springs<br />Spohn Adj PHR<br />160* ThermostatTags: None
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I have the Mini-afc. It works good. Not much to it. If you're gonna be running nitrous or a blower in the future, and don't have a method of retarding timing, then get the MAFT+.
Oh, the mini afc allows you to alter the maf signal by as little as 1% plus or minus. The 100% setting is the full (normal) maf signal. A 1% change in the maft signal causes a 5% change in your Long Term Fuel Trims.
Do not look to have a whole lot of play with the device. N/A, a 101% setting gave me an overly rich condition that throws a light. Dee97GTP can only set it as high as 104% and his car is blown with intake work. The leanest that I can set the device is 96%. 95% throws a catalyst below threshold code from being too lean. Settings below 100% are noticeable N/A, car is peppier. Do not go lower than 98% without some method to monitor your o2s.
Your fuel maps will never be the same again. The computer will always strive to reach a stoich state, but will not be completely successful. Worth having if you're into tuning and performance. Not worth it, if you're looking for a big go fast mod. That's about it.
[ April 29, 2003: Message edited by: AMinor65 ]</p><b>1998 Firebird 3800 Series II, A4</b><br />Direct-Flo Lid,K&N Filter,DEE TB Spacer,TPS-TEC,ZZP Mini-AFC,Raised and Cutout Airbox 7mm,BMR STB & Boxed LCAs,KYB AGX Shocks,Drilled/Slotted Rotors,180* Thermo,2.5\" Catco Cat,Dynomax 2.75\" custom catback,Kumho Ecstas/245,Jet Stage 2,3.42,Edge Racing 2870 Stall,B&M Tranny Cooler,B&M Deep Tranny Pan,LSD,AAM Girdle,1LE DS,NX Wet Kit,MSD DIS-4,MSD Blaster Coil Packs,Taylor Spiro Pro 8mm Wires,NGK TR6\'S gapped .045,ZZP UD WP Pulley,SLP Fan Switch,TT II\'s<br />N/A: 15.6342 @ 88.44 (On stock converter. Strugglin\' to beat it.)<br />Nitrous 50 Shot: 14.7463 @ 93.49
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bout how much is this MAFT+? I have intake, low thermostat,and a resistor in my AIT sensor. It seems like the car runs pretty rich. I haven't added exhaust yet, but I doubt if that'll make it even out. Should I go ahead and get this device? Where can I get one? Planning on staying n/a 3.8l160* thermostat, K&N cold air intake, pullies, red lights inside air condition vents, ZO6 17\"18\"back. Black letters inside fire red CAMARO lettering. (used electrical tape) Anyone know cheap mods? Still a student
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by ZderekZ:
bout how much is this MAFT+? I have intake, low thermostat,and a resistor in my AIT sensor. It seems like the car runs pretty rich. I haven't added exhaust yet, but I doubt if that'll make it even out. Should I go ahead and get this device? Where can I get one? Planning on staying n/a 3.8l<hr></blockquote>
Well, before you purchase either product, how do you know that your car is running rich?
It may be running richer because of the IAT mod. If you're getting more timing from the mod,
you're also getting more fuel. That's usually how it works. If your were to get a device
to modify the maf signal to alleviate the rich condition, it is highly probable that you will also see a decrease in timing. This would basically nullify any performance increases achieved with the IAT mod.
The MAFT+ is about twice as much as the Mini-afc. If you're gonna stay N/A, just get the mini-afc and toss the IAT mod. Running a slightly leaner mix should still show a performance increase. Hope this helps.<b>1998 Firebird 3800 Series II, A4</b><br />Direct-Flo Lid,K&N Filter,DEE TB Spacer,TPS-TEC,ZZP Mini-AFC,Raised and Cutout Airbox 7mm,BMR STB & Boxed LCAs,KYB AGX Shocks,Drilled/Slotted Rotors,180* Thermo,2.5\" Catco Cat,Dynomax 2.75\" custom catback,Kumho Ecstas/245,Jet Stage 2,3.42,Edge Racing 2870 Stall,B&M Tranny Cooler,B&M Deep Tranny Pan,LSD,AAM Girdle,1LE DS,NX Wet Kit,MSD DIS-4,MSD Blaster Coil Packs,Taylor Spiro Pro 8mm Wires,NGK TR6\'S gapped .045,ZZP UD WP Pulley,SLP Fan Switch,TT II\'s<br />N/A: 15.6342 @ 88.44 (On stock converter. Strugglin\' to beat it.)<br />Nitrous 50 Shot: 14.7463 @ 93.49
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so the mini afc doesnt allow timing changes? just fuel? that sux because what if someone has a really built setup n/a and has their pcm programmed for this then wants to run nitrous so they will most likely have to retard the timing?Longtubes, true duals, ram air, caspers tps tec, ls1 26lb injectors, supersix powerpack, heads milled .020, comp cam .507 220/224 114 ls, forged internals and chromeoly pushrods, bored .030 over, tb spacer, tranny built with stiffer springs and kevlar bands, bigger servo, transgo stage 3 shift kit, edge 3600 stall, 1 pc aluminum ds, 3.73 superior gears, lsd rear ,custom pcm tuning, walbro 255 in tank,
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by SLOWBRAEATER:
so the mini afc doesnt allow timing changes? just fuel? that sux because what if someone has a really built setup n/a and has their pcm programmed for this then wants to run nitrous so they will most likely have to retard the timing?<hr></blockquote>
Right, its just fuel.2002 5-spd NBM Camaro
Details: www.1lev6.com
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I have both. Since I have a custom MAF setup, I get it in the ballpark with the mini-afc and then I do the fine tuning(WOT) with the MAFT+. My car likes extra timing and the big advantage the MAFT has over the MAFC is that WOT setting.
But if I had more money, I would go with the ICCU, it is far superior to both of these!
If I had a L36, I would definately opt for the MAFT+. Go the track, throw in some race fuel, bump up the timing a few degrees and lose a few tenths on your time....
DEE1997 GTP(13.3@104)-Sold<br />1999 Trans Am M6
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