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rk sports are known to leak and just be a hassle, but I'm told they are "better" if you can get past all those problems.
pacesetters are cheaper and have no imidiate problems.
I'm glad you started this thread, and so far I'd choose pacesetter.. but maybe this will help out
All you have to do for the RKSport's is get the headers/ypipe connection welded or get a new y pipe custom made. I love my RKSports even though I lived with them leaking for about 3 months until I decided to get them fixed for about $125.00 at Mienikie If you want to hear my exhaust Click Here
These previous posts are good, but they fail to mention it's the 3.8L RK Sport headers that have a leaking problem. If you have a 3.4L the RK Sports don't leak so you can go either way, Pacesetter or RK Sport. I personally will be going with the Pacesetter headers because they're cheaper, and I don't need the "Bling-Bling" coating on them either. As for where to get them, you can go to www.ammperformance.com
Jon
[ July 17, 2003: Message edited by: L32Projekt ]</p>
Check out my stable of supercharged W-Bodies <a href=\"http://www.fullthrottlev6.com/forums/vbgarage.php?do=view&id=136\" target=\"_blank\">HERE</a><br /><b>\'97 Pontiac GP GTP Coupe</b><br /><b>\'98 Regal GS | L67 3800 Series II</b>
Ive got the rksport headers and i think they look sweet as hell and sound sweet as hell. I may have a small leak but it doesnt even bother me. cant really even hear it. I think they gave me maybe a 5hp gain. The ceramic coating is a must, but i think either company makes it that way, Id go with the pacesetters again if I could do it over. I dont think there is that much difference in performance
SLP CAI, RK Sport headers, P&Ped heads and intake, GT2 cam, Upgraded valvetrain, Z28 rear axle with 4.10s Tx Spd tune, Z06 rims, 2.5\" exhaust to flowmaster, 160* thermo, B&M ripper, upgraded ignition, rockford fosgate 12\" with sony xplode amp and HU.
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by 317indy: All you have to do for the RKSport's is get the headers/ypipe connection welded or get a new y pipe custom made.<hr></blockquote>
What's the point of wasting $500 just to get another Y pipe made?
from information i've gathered.. headers need to be able to flex at the connecting points, and since you have to get rk's welded to not leak. it wont let them flex.
pacesetters are working wonderfully on my car, the y pipe fits perfectly with no welding needed.
i choose pacesetters over RK sport
96 Camaro M5. Dark metallic gree (?dont know the offical color name)<br />Home made Intake :: Headers, 3inch headers back to Flowmaster muffler :: spec stage 3 clutch Now installed, waiting for 3.42\'s and LSD next month<br /><a href=\"http://photobucket.com/albums/y192/RiceEatingCamaro/?action=view¤t=newcar.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">My Car</a> <br /><br />Totalled Car.<br /><a href=\"http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/k/sk8er305/\" target=\"_blank\">96 CamaroRS</a>
My headers didnt cost me that much. I think I got them for 400. The custom y pipe wasnt made for 125$ I also got a my hi flo cat installed and 3'' "s" pipe made also.
it will be extremely loud..and have a VERY NICE IDLE.
96 Camaro M5. Dark metallic gree (?dont know the offical color name)<br />Home made Intake :: Headers, 3inch headers back to Flowmaster muffler :: spec stage 3 clutch Now installed, waiting for 3.42\'s and LSD next month<br /><a href=\"http://photobucket.com/albums/y192/RiceEatingCamaro/?action=view¤t=newcar.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">My Car</a> <br /><br />Totalled Car.<br /><a href=\"http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/k/sk8er305/\" target=\"_blank\">96 CamaroRS</a>
magnus even agreed with this one or maybe it was dominic but regardless we concluded that the best setup for sound for the 3.8 waas the rk sport headers with a 2.5" pipe all the way thru with no cat and an 80 series flowmaster
SLP CAI, RK Sport headers, P&Ped heads and intake, GT2 cam, Upgraded valvetrain, Z28 rear axle with 4.10s Tx Spd tune, Z06 rims, 2.5\" exhaust to flowmaster, 160* thermo, B&M ripper, upgraded ignition, rockford fosgate 12\" with sony xplode amp and HU.
well today i finaly finished puting the pasesetter headers on and let me tell you it was a pain in the ars first problem getting those darn heat shilds of is a femal dog you realy need 2 people for that one on top and one on botom i didnt use a single swivel but i realy could use one. another must have Would of ben my side winder wrench that my brother lost its got a twist handel to tighten up hard to get to bolts.
problems with the headers drivers side header did not line up right after an hour or so pushing pulling twisting the headers by habd i got a woden handel stuck it in the opening and pushed up and two the front and the bolts went right in. the drivers side o2 sensor with the new heders will not reconect the wires sre just two short hsve to get a extension for that. where the ega (i think thats what it is called the flex pipe that runds to the smog pump) is not threded and you have to bolt that on (one is not in the kit nor is there any thing in the instructions on it).
the y pipe is on now with no leaks that i could find but the bolts are not threded far enought to tighting it down any more the bolt is all the way up and it could use a turn or two. and the 3" outlet is that 3 inches goes around the stock cat great but the midas had a hell of a time geting it on the carsound hi flow cat. over all the problems where able to deal with and it was all made better when i turned the key and heard her per like a kitten. im shure im leaveing some stuff out and i will right a more detailed post leater 12 hours on your back tends to where you out a bit
99 firebird 3.8<br />ftra,custom made air box, pacesetter headers, 3500 pi vig verter 3.73lsd trans-go stage ii shift kit corvett servo flowmaster cat back dees tb spacer <p>_ ___soon___ _ <br />P&P heads 3 angle valve job and a nice cam to go with i
Hello Everyone, I just install PaceSetter Headers on my 97 3800 heres the details
what you need
Metric tools, weches and sockets,
3 inch extention, 6 inch extention
plyers. welder, saw, few other things
swivil
1 frist drive the car then let it cool about 45 mins, HINT PUT YOU HOOD UP cool faster
2 pull it up on ramps, block back tire e-break all that, saftey
3 get old Y pipe off there undo bolts and cut away from cat then, this gives you more room
4get the plug wires out of the way, then the plugs, Manofolds are still hot!! use gloves
5 no im not crazy your working while it cools this is why, start on the manifold bolts, when car warm they come out easy, i only had trouble with the vary last one i took out, driver side, 3rd bolt, bottom. theres studs with nuts on them, on that bolt the nut was free from the stud, then i got stud out after 15mins of playing with it. NOTE i had to put a stock stud in this hole, i dont know why but new ones would not go in
note it wiil take longer to get stock manifolds out then the new ones in
6 the pass manifold will drop out the bottom, take the driver side out the top tricky but it will go. NOTE you need 2 people 1 under car and one under hood. you can take of the heat sheilds it helps a little.
7 as you take stock out have person thats not under car get out the O2 senors (or have new ones ready) mine came out easy 19mm TAKE OFF HEAT SHEILDS. and put them in the headers were they go.
8. most tricky part of the header install is getting the driver side in there, dont be fooled bye room on the driver side, the drive side will take longer to do almost everything, dont look like it. trust me it goes in, without removing any thing, from the bottom
had to dent the frame a about 1/2 back to slip it in, NO BIGGY
9. sealing, DO NOT GET THE FEL-PRO GASKETS THEY SUCK, I was frustrated with the leaks, i tred stock ones, drive side seald up, pass side did not , i cut my onw gasket and used stock to get it to seal yes both. if i had more time i would have got new stock ones from GM, call them they have exact ones you just took out, PARTS DEPOT at any gm dealer i would have those new ones before you start. use those. if does leak seal only takes about 20 min to take header off and move gasket a little, to me make sure gasket is as far to the top as it can as this is were all me leaks was, top and just to left when looking at them.
I got a sheet from autzone and tried making my own gasekt, it almost worked this is how i know were it was leaking, but with my homeade and the stock it sealed, with new stock you should not have problem.
new headers are easy to bolt in just start in the center and work outwards, then back to center till everything is snug. put ypie on snug up bolts, weld to cat. thats about all
ADVIES TO GET NEW HIGH FLOW CAT , I HAVE CATCO, AND 2 1/2 CAT BACK PIPES, CAMARO V8 80 SERIES FLOWMASTER FROM SUMMIT 3 INCH IN AND DUAL 2 1/2 OUT, SOUND LIKE V8 TILL ABOUT 3500RPM
Pros
more top end power, lol, i can cherp going into 4 gear!!!! WOW
better sound
even with 195 thermo temp stay at 180 now
cleans up bay
change spark plugs and wires in 20-40 mins, YES I SAID 20 MINS, i had a miss took out every plug and checked it in 20mins, From the top only!!!!!
O2 replacement is snap
BETTER GAS MILeAGE
NO CODES
loooks great
LUB LUB LUB LUB LUB GRR GRR LUB LUB KILL LUB THE GRR RICE LUB LUB OH YEAH
headers have pulation and O2 hook up built in. came with new header bolts and flang bolts
cant think of any cons, ones there are only for install
using gtech pro 3 runs showed gain of 13-29 RWHP
CONS
costly TO BUY
need time
freaking polution cotroll on driver side is hard to seal, cut one out i did from that sheet.
center plug on driverr side, shve down a 5/8 socket till you can get over a plug, or bye shorty plugs no biggy
ummm cant really thinck of any more
umm
ahh
you get my point
gaskets are meltel, you can take haeders on and off till you get seal,
any qestions why i did or did not do something please ask, or if you need more detail on certan things let me know, e-mail or im me
www.turbov6camaro.com 1997 3800 Series II Camaro 4600 Stall for my ride to the mall :chug: 7.18 @ 99.77 1/8 -1.8x sixty (current quickest v6 fbod) 11.23 @ unk 5 1/4 - 7.19 1/8 - 1.83 sixty
So my truck is finally getting some work done, after 17 years, Oil pressure sensor went out and it’s located under the lower intake manifold. Have to...
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