I know there has been alot of speculation over this this mod and im hoping some peeps will discuss a few things with me. This mod basicly involves adding a resistor to your sensor to trick the computer into thinking the air is colder so it will add more fuel and advance the timing a few degrees. Most people seem to have bad luck because they bypass the sensor alltogether to give a constant temperature reading of either 36 degrees (8100 ohm resistor) or 57 degrees (4700 ohm). If the resistor was added in line with the IAT sensor then the temperature would still remain colder to the computer but not one set temperature as weather conditions may change then people would probably have better luck with this mod and better gains. Since most people add more air flow to their cars (high flow intake = less restriction in airflow) more fuel flow should also be added to obtain proper air/fuel ratio so this mod will increase the amout of fuel input to your motor (the colder the air is the more dense the air molecules are so more fuel molecules must be added to the 14.7/1 air to fuel ratio the computer seeks so when a resistor is added in series with the circuit the computer thinks the air is more dense). This mod can help detonation problems as more fuel is harder to ignite then less fuel. Another way to help detonation is to run high octane because it helps fight preignition. I have not done this mod yet but tomarrow I will buy my 4.7K resistor from rat shack and add it in line with my IAT sensor. I have a 95 3.4 With a custom cold air intake w/k & n filter, a custom built tb cooler, 3 inch pipe from cat to a raving muff into twin tips. My motor is constantly fighting dtonation problems because of the lean mixture these mods create and running 93 helps but im looking for a little more and nothing too expensive for the moment like high flow injectors, new fuel pump, ect. but I plan on getting everything when I open my exhaust some more with headers and a gutted cat.
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Free IAT mod
95 3.4 - Custom cold air with k&n, throttle body cooling system, 3.73, 3\" pipe after cat to raven with twin tips, All poly sway bushings, IAT resistor <br />Mods to come - Headers, high flow cat, high flow fuel rail, pump, and injectors.Tags: None
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Why you want to open up the exhaust so bad hehe, I got 2.5" pipes into a flowmaster 80 w/ cutout and Ilove it. I have the stock cats as well. As far as ive seen people have had little luck with the 3 " pipes let alone gutted cats, playing with fire but then again do it, I could be wrong and you could be in the 14's [img]graemlins/burnout.gif[/img] ne ways I just bought the SLP IAT sensor and I like it so far, especially since I lost the rubber gromet that the IAT hooks into on my whisper lid, I have the IAT hole covered and the SLP sensor taped to the side of the air box [img]graemlins/dunce.gif[/img]1998 Firebird 3.8, A4<br />Mods: Alum Ds, Yank TC 2800 stall, Rksport lid, FTRA, SLP air temp sensor, K&N, Flowmaster catback 2.5\" w/cutout, 3:42 gears w/LSD<br />Best E/T: 15.6 @ 86 mph (w/o gears / lsd or verter)<br />Best 60: 2.234<br /><a href=\"http://www.teamfoxfire.iwarp.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.teamfoxfire.iwarp.com</a> -- club site<p>To come?: l67 piston package hardened, turbo? spray? low 12\'s? well see
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Well I have the resistor in series with the IAT circuit and I can feel a little more power. Because we own v-6's our computers are set more for gas milage than performance and are therefor set to run on reg. unleded. This mod is allowing me to take advantage of high octane fuel. $1.04 at radio shack. Im allowing so much flow in my exhaust because I will be adding alot more air/fuel into the intake. Since I have a 3.73 gear I need to take advantage of everything on the top end.95 3.4 - Custom cold air with k&n, throttle body cooling system, 3.73, 3\" pipe after cat to raven with twin tips, All poly sway bushings, IAT resistor <br />Mods to come - Headers, high flow cat, high flow fuel rail, pump, and injectors.
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aha good reply [img]smile.gif[/img] Ill switch into 3" pipes when I spray it but not until then.1998 Firebird 3.8, A4<br />Mods: Alum Ds, Yank TC 2800 stall, Rksport lid, FTRA, SLP air temp sensor, K&N, Flowmaster catback 2.5\" w/cutout, 3:42 gears w/LSD<br />Best E/T: 15.6 @ 86 mph (w/o gears / lsd or verter)<br />Best 60: 2.234<br /><a href=\"http://www.teamfoxfire.iwarp.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.teamfoxfire.iwarp.com</a> -- club site<p>To come?: l67 piston package hardened, turbo? spray? low 12\'s? well see
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NO NO NO NO NO NO NO
Don't install that POS. In theory that makes sense, however I've tested it AT THE TRACK and I've always wound up .1sec slower than what I would typically run the rest of the night. This was tested MULTIPLE times on DIFFERENT DAYS AND in TWO different F-bodies and we received the same results. Plus your fuel economy goes to $hit. Don't bother...but hey if you want to try it, go for it. You'll just lose a couple pennies in your pocket and some extra fuel. :D
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Fuel cost is not much of a concern to me for the power I recieve. I actually had problems with the 4700 ohm resistor so im going to switch to a 2000 or so today. My motor would pull like hell just crusing around town but when I got on it I felt knock retard. I used to beat my friends car easy and he kept up with me last night. I can definetly feel the power up to 3500. all and all im only out another buck.95 3.4 - Custom cold air with k&n, throttle body cooling system, 3.73, 3\" pipe after cat to raven with twin tips, All poly sway bushings, IAT resistor <br />Mods to come - Headers, high flow cat, high flow fuel rail, pump, and injectors.
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