preparing header bolts for removal?

[BLLDOGG]

for the guys who have taken there stock headers off.....what did you guys spray on them so they didnt break cause of rust or whatever?

[Turbo V6 Camaro]

i took my car for a drive let it cool for about 45 mins (up and ramps and hood up) and then just took the bolts out

her i wrote this about year ago

Posted: Sat Jul 19, 2003 1:41 am
Post subject: 1997 3800 Header install Deatails, read

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Hello Everyone, I just install PaceSetter Headers on my 97 3800 heres the details

what you need
Metric tools, weches and sockets,
3 inch extention, 6 inch extention
plyers. welder, saw, few other things
swivil, 2 PEOPLE

1 frist drive the car then let it cool about 45 mins, HINT PUT YOU HOOD UP cool faster

2 pull it up on ramps, block back tire e-break all that, saftey

3 get old Y pipe off there undo bolts and cut away from cat then, this gives you more room

4get the plug wires out of the way, then the plugs, Manofolds are still hot!! use gloves

5 no im not crazy your working while it cools this is why, start on the manifold bolts ASAP, when car warm they come out easy, i only had trouble with the vary last one i took out, driver side, 3rd bolt, bottom. theres studs with nuts on them, on that bolt the nut was free from the stud, then i got stud out after 15mins of playing with it. NOTE i had to put a stock stud in this hole, i dont know why but new ones would not go in

It wiil take longer to get stock manifolds out then the new headers in

6 the pass manifold will drop out the bottom, take the driver side out the top tricky but it will go. NOTE you need 2 people 1 under car and one under hood. you can take off the heat sheilds on the manafolds it helps a little. (have to anyway to get the O2 senors out)

7. as you take stock out have person thats not under car get out the O2 senors (or have new ones ready) mine came out easy 19mm. TAKE OFF HEAT SHEILDS. Then put them in the headers were they go.

8. most tricky part of the header install is getting the driver side in there, dont be fooled bye room on the driver side, the drive side will take longer to do almost everything, dont look like it. trust me it goes in, without removing any thing, from the bottom
had to dent the frame a about 1/2 back to slip it in, NO BIGY

9. sealing, DO NOT GET THE FEL-PRO GASKETS THEY SUCK, I was frustrated with the leaks,so I tried stock ones, drive side sealed up, pass side did not , i cut my own gasket and used stock to get it to seal (yes both). if i had more time i would have got new stock ones from GM, call them they have exact ones you just took out, PARTS DEPOT at any gm dealer i would have those new ones before you start. use those. if does leak, it only takes about 20 min to take header off and move gasket a little, I SAY: make sure gasket is as far to the top as it can as this is were all me leaks was, top and just to left when looking at them.

I got a sheet from autzone and tried making my own gaseket, it almost worked this is how i know were it was leaking, but with my homeade gasket and the stock one it sealed, with new stock, you should not have problem.

new headers are easy to bolt in just start in the center and work outwards, then back to center till everything is snug. put ypipe on snug up bolts, weld to cat. thats about all, i used old lug nuts as spacers on the flang bolts so i could make it tighter helps ALOT

ADVIES TO GET NEW HIGH FLOW CAT , I HAVE CATCO, AND 2 1/2 CAT BACK PIPES, CAMARO V8 80 SERIES FLOWMASTER FROM SUMMIT 3 INCH IN AND DUAL 2 1/2 OUT, SOUND LIKE V8 TILL ABOUT 3500RPM

Pros
more top end power, lol, i can cherp going into 4 gear!!!! WOW
better sound
even with 195 thermo temp stay at 180 now
cleans up bay
change spark plugs and wires in 20-40 mins, YES I SAID 20 MINS, i had a miss took out every plug and checked it in 20mins, From the top only!!!!!
O2 replacement is snap
BETTER GAS MILeAGE
NO CODES
loooks great
LUB LUB LUB LUB LUB GRR GRR LUB LUB KILL LUB THE GRR RICE LUB LUB OH YEAH
headers have pulation and O2 hook up built in. came with new header bolts and flang bolts
cant think of any cons, ones there are only for install
using gtech pro 3 runs showed gain of 13-29 RWHP

CONS
costly TO BUY
need time
freaking polution cotroll on driver side is hard to seal, cut one out from the sheet i got at auto zone WORKS GREAT NO LEAK
center plug on pass side, shave down a 5/8 socket till you can get over the plug, or bye shorty plugs no biggy
ummm cant really think of any more
umm
ahh
you get my point


gaskets are meltle, you can take haeders on and off till you get seal,

any qestions why i did or did not do something please ask, or if you need more detail on certan things let me know, e-mail or im me viper03af@aol.com

[BLLDOGG]

thanks anyone else do spray anything on there bolts. im not sure if mine r rusted or not.

[malice10985]

PB blaster works pretty well for rusty bolts.

[hawgs]

If you go to AutoZone and look around this question should answer itself [img]smile.gif[/img]

If it were me... I'd park the car the night before where you plan on working on it, soak the gaskets in water overnight, and spray down the bolts that night and in the morning.

[BLLDOGG]

thanks.

[95Batmobile]

you can buy penetrating lube if you're worried about them being rusted on. My car is 5 years older than yours and I didn't have any problems.
Also didn't soak the gasket, just cleaned the flanges, cleaned the heads, and used some GM High temp silicone. No leaks..