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After doing a search on the board for cutout locations I have determined that most people are running their cutout right before the rear axle, but no one has posted their gains. I have also heard that I should mount the cutout after at least 1 bend in the pipes to maintain the back pressure. any truth to this and if so I think the 3.42's will help with that. So what is the general consensus on cutout location for the best gains? right before the axle or after the cat?
Well in my case the only way to have a cutout monted on our cars is right before the axel since that is the place with the most room. Performace wise, i did not notice in difference (that is how good my muffler flows) and it sounds great (only when warmed up).
2004 Dodge Dakota 3.7 litres of raw power!!<br />Nothing but a 6!<br />Do you know for sure? John 3:18
my cutout is right before the muffler...there is a big SOTP feel when i uncap it...but, i have an un-mandrel bent 2.5" catback adn there are a few spots that squeeze down pretty tight...im never gonna have mine capped at teh track...
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by 12secondv6: Before the axle.
Open 282 rwhp and 335 tq
Closed 291 rwhp and 362 tq
Mine is closed all the time<hr></blockquote>
Thx for finally posting numbers hehe, being louder sometimes tricks us into thinking its faster, I do love that sound though (thank god i got a electric cutout)
Cutout placed right before the axle: 15.3 no spin
Closed cutout : 15.2 no spin
Cutout placed right after S-Pipe: 15.0 little spin
the 15.2 and 15.0 were run on hte same night, the 15.3 was on a warmer night, but still conditions of track were same. I am very satisfied with the cutout... best 35 bucks I have spent. should have been in 14's but the spin off the line took the .02 off the top end.
Had it by the axle, was a totally different sound and seemed to buzz and pop more.. there is absolutely no pops or backfires with the cutout where it is now.. also, YOU NEED intake mods to benifit from the cutout... this seems to be an endless debate about this stuff.. yes numbers were posted about HP and TQ, but some cars react to mods different than others... IF YOU ARE IN DOUBT... GET ONE, if you dont like it, A) Cap it up or B) cut it off and put a pice of pipe in its spot... You will only be outta 50 bucks MAX...
The loss of power must be a V6 thing. My friend with a '00 Z28 (lt headers, cam, catback) made right around 363 rwhp with the cutout closed and 386 rwhp with it open. No other mods between dynos either for that increase.
Gerry
<b>2001 Black Trans AM M6</b> <br />!Hood baffles,!CAGS,Mufflex Cat-bypass pipes,Borla y-pipe,TSP Rumbler cat-back,LGM lid,G2 springs,BMR SFC\'s,BMR STB,LGM billet pedals,Lou\'s short stick,Custom FRC\'s,Custom hood and side vents,Polished 18x9.5 Z06 wheels
ok understand that this is also @ 6000ft elevation
closed cutout 16.75
open cutout 16.42
a fairly large difference as you can tell but my cutout is also alot different then everyone elses out there it is homemade :D and it is before my glasspack
2002 M5 Bright Metallic Silver <br />*Fully loaded and modded<br /><br />2005 GSXR 750<br />*Micron Serpent Race Exhaust *K&N Filter *Power Commander *Trying to hit 200 MPH!<br /><br />1970 SS 454 Chevelle Cortez Silver<br />*It can pass anything but a gas station
If you already have a decent cat back, don't put one on. I am thinking about bypassing everything, but I don't want to loose my low end! I have always heard the less exhaust with n2o was better, but I guess not!
1997 Chevrolet Camaro v6 - 13.8@104MPH
1997 Dodge Viper GTS
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Pewter2K1: Cutout placed right before the axle: 15.3 no spin
Closed cutout : 15.2 no spin
Cutout placed right after S-Pipe: 15.0 little spin
the 15.2 and 15.0 were run on hte same night, the 15.3 was on a warmer night, but still conditions of track were same. I am very satisfied with the cutout... best 35 bucks I have spent. should have been in 14's but the spin off the line took the .02 off the top end.
Had it by the axle, was a totally different sound and seemed to buzz and pop more.. there is absolutely no pops or backfires with the cutout where it is now.. also, YOU NEED intake mods to benifit from the cutout... this seems to be an endless debate about this stuff.. yes numbers were posted about HP and TQ, but some cars react to mods different than others... IF YOU ARE IN DOUBT... GET ONE, if you dont like it, A) Cap it up or B) cut it off and put a pice of pipe in its spot... You will only be outta 50 bucks MAX...<hr></blockquote>
Sorry, a little new at this. Where is the S-Pipe? Is that the part that goes over the axle just before the muffler? I think I would like to try your version first. Doesn't seem like your losing much low end and it maybe sounds better. Any sound clips handy?
Just dynoed my car today with the cutout. I had it installed right before the axle. Anyways here are the results:
Previous Dyno (lid only)
305 rwhp 329 rwtq
Today (only difference was cutout on the same dyno and with pretty much same weather)
329 rwhp 351 rwtq
Granted this is on a LS1 but you get the idea that a cutout does help.
Gerry
<b>2001 Black Trans AM M6</b> <br />!Hood baffles,!CAGS,Mufflex Cat-bypass pipes,Borla y-pipe,TSP Rumbler cat-back,LGM lid,G2 springs,BMR SFC\'s,BMR STB,LGM billet pedals,Lou\'s short stick,Custom FRC\'s,Custom hood and side vents,Polished 18x9.5 Z06 wheels
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