Systematic study of the infamous IAT resistor mod - FirebirdV6.com/CamaroV6.com Message Board

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  • Systematic study of the infamous IAT resistor mod

    I know this topic has been discussed to death, but I think I drew some solid conclusions from my research, thus I am posting them for newbs to reference.

    I got bored yesterday so I got out the old autotap and bought $4 worth of resistors at radioshack. These were their values for temp:

    Actual IAT temp 41*F
    680 ohm 142*F
    3.3K ohm 70*F
    4.7K ohm 57*F
    10K ohm 30*F

    I wanted to get an 18K ohm as well, but they were sold out. Since it was 41*F outside, the 10K was the only resistor that would have a chance of improving my performance.

    I made several WOT runs at my secret test facility.

    First, the stock IAT values:

    As I made a couple passes, the IAT heated up to 50*F. The timing jumped around from 21* adv to 26* adv, but it averaged itself out at about 22* adv. The A/F ratio stayed consistent at 12.2, which is a little rich for peak performace. Best power ratio is between 13.5-14.0.

    Now, the 10K results:

    The IAT value stayed right at 30*F. The timing jumped from 25* adv to 29* adv, but it averaged itself out at about 27* adv. The A/F ratio fluctuated between 12.3-12.5.

    Conclusion:

    I gained about 5* of timing advance and leaned out by .1-.2. The slightly leaner condition should help the engine achieve best power ratio. Was there a SOTP gain? Definatley not. I do believe, however, that 5* is enough timing advance not to dismiss this super cheap mod as useless. Of course you need to use high octane fuel when attempting any timing advance.
    1999 red camaro v6 M5: with a turbo<br />13.52@107.99<br />No, seriously: Who Farted? <br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/600086\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/600086</a>

  • #2
    Nice try the 18ks to see what happens as well...

    you said you gained about 5* of timing... but you were going from a 41-50 degree base, think of others who go from a 60-70 or even sometimes 80-90 degree base... It will advance the timing several degrees, since it is thinking it is much colder.

    [ January 25, 2004: Message edited by: MustangEater8251 ]</p>

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    • #3
      I was going to continue doing tests today, but it started to rain, then sleet, then snow.

      I will test more when the roads clear up. It will probably be in about 2 weeks.

      I went ahead and posted what I had so far because I knew I would forget about it otherwise.
      1999 red camaro v6 M5: with a turbo<br />13.52@107.99<br />No, seriously: Who Farted? <br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/600086\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/600086</a>

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      • #4
        I'd be interested to see if the timing would stay at a lower value with say a 250 ohm resistor in there. This would be VERY useful for power adder guys to quickly and easily retard timing a couple degrees. I wonder if there's a certain value where the PCM thrws a service code, say if it is reading an equivalent of 215* F. [img]smile.gif[/img] Keep us updated!
        <a href=\"http://www.fullthrottlev6.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.fullthrottlev6.com</a> THE SOURCE!

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        • #5
          I will check that out when the weather here gets better.
          1999 red camaro v6 M5: with a turbo<br />13.52@107.99<br />No, seriously: Who Farted? <br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/600086\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/600086</a>

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          • #6
            any more new testing?

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            • #7
              <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by MustangEater8251:
              any more new testing?<hr></blockquote>

              HAHA I wish!!

              There is a 1" sheet of ice on the ground. My maro is tucked safely in the garage for at least the next couple of days.
              1999 red camaro v6 M5: with a turbo<br />13.52@107.99<br />No, seriously: Who Farted? <br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/600086\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/600086</a>

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              • #8
                You could all ways put resistors in series.
                If they don't have a 18K ohm resistor get a 10K and an 8K, problem solved.
                I was going to put a veritable resistor in series with my IAT and wire it into my car where I can ajust it when ever I want.
                \'85 Z28, T-tops new LG4 and TH700<br />\'85 3.4L 5-speed<br />mods: <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/oil_pan_4\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/oil_pan_4</a> the nitrous exhaust O2 safety, pg 3. <br />Areo space materal engineer wantabe

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                • #9
                  <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by oil pan 4:
                  You could all ways put resistors in series.
                  If they don't have a 18K ohm resistor get a 10K and an 8K, problem solved.
                  I was going to put a veritable resistor in series with my IAT and wire it into my car where I can ajust it when ever I want.
                  <hr></blockquote>

                  Putting them in series is a good idea. I will do that when the weather gets better.

                  I need better weather so I can do full throttle tests with the engine under a load. I really with the temperature would jump up to 50* for just one day. What is the point of simulating an intake air temp of 20* when the acutual temp is like 22*?
                  1999 red camaro v6 M5: with a turbo<br />13.52@107.99<br />No, seriously: Who Farted? <br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/600086\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/600086</a>

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                  • #10
                    Just see what hapens.
                    Wait you will just run lean and burn you exhaust valve like the time when I had my IAT more or less short out (it was showing 338'F at room temp).
                    Don't run lean for a long time.
                    "What is the point of simulating an intake air temp of 20* when the acutual temp is like 22*? "
                    \'85 Z28, T-tops new LG4 and TH700<br />\'85 3.4L 5-speed<br />mods: <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/oil_pan_4\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/oil_pan_4</a> the nitrous exhaust O2 safety, pg 3. <br />Areo space materal engineer wantabe

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                    • #11
                      I woudl run it pretty much track only not day in day out...

                      whenever I played with it KILLED my gas mileage...

                      by the way isn't therei a point where the o2s/MAF compensate for the lean ness of the car?

                      [ February 02, 2004: Message edited by: MustangEater8251 ]</p>

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                      • #12
                        My exhaust valves say no, the ECU need the IAT with it shorted out my car ran real lean.
                        They were burned real good.
                        \'85 Z28, T-tops new LG4 and TH700<br />\'85 3.4L 5-speed<br />mods: <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/oil_pan_4\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/oil_pan_4</a> the nitrous exhaust O2 safety, pg 3. <br />Areo space materal engineer wantabe

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                        • #13
                          Unless you're using a Wideband O2 to read the A/F ratio, it won't be accurate. Also, if you're running a 13.5 - 14.0 a/f ratio, be prepared to have some major knock. That is way to lean. Proper a/f ratio should be somewhere between 12.5 - 13.0 for an N/A application.

                          Chris
                          <b>2002 BSM TransAm WS.6 M6</b><br /><b>350rwhp, 365rwtq</b><br /><b>Stock:</b>13.455 @ 105.39 2.129 60\'<br /><b>Mod:</b>12.449 @ 113 1.832 60\'<br /><br /><b>2004 QSM GTO M6</b><br /><b>303rwhp, 329rwtq</b><br />Stock: 13.74 @ 102.14 2.1 60\'<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/silvertaws6\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cardomain.com/silvertaws6</a> <br /><br /><b>1984 Firebird S/E M5</b><br />2.8L

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                          • #14
                            <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by SilverTAWS6:
                            Unless you're using a Wideband O2 to read the A/F ratio, it won't be accurate. Also, if you're running a 13.5 - 14.0 a/f ratio, be prepared to have some major knock. That is way to lean. Proper a/f ratio should be somewhere between 12.5 - 13.0 for an N/A application.

                            Chris
                            <hr></blockquote>

                            could be compensated with higher octane right? maybe 93 or even 100

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                            • #15
                              <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by MustangEater8251:


                              could be compensated with higher octane right? maybe 93 or even 100
                              <hr></blockquote>


                              93, no way. Race gas with a race tune, possibly.

                              Chris
                              <b>2002 BSM TransAm WS.6 M6</b><br /><b>350rwhp, 365rwtq</b><br /><b>Stock:</b>13.455 @ 105.39 2.129 60\'<br /><b>Mod:</b>12.449 @ 113 1.832 60\'<br /><br /><b>2004 QSM GTO M6</b><br /><b>303rwhp, 329rwtq</b><br />Stock: 13.74 @ 102.14 2.1 60\'<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/silvertaws6\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cardomain.com/silvertaws6</a> <br /><br /><b>1984 Firebird S/E M5</b><br />2.8L

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