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I've been up under my car on my days off for the last 2 weeks trying to seal up all the leaks comming from where the Y-Pipe meets the Headers. Flanges keep backing the bolts off to the outside of the slot and it leaks. I tried swapping in for a 5/8 bolt and a lock washer, but that isn't working either. WTF do I need to do to get this crap to stop leaking!!! [img]graemlins/rant.gif[/img]
If you could not flame me for not searching, much appriciated. [img]graemlins/rofl.gif[/img]
Originally posted by WickEdSix9838: I wouldnt use the red loctite, try the blue first. The red stuff will make the threads strip a lot of the time when u try to take the bolts back out.
well i figured he wouldnt want them to ever come off again :D
i bought blue but then i took it to an exhaust shop to see what they say.. and they said no matter what locktite i put on there, they will probably still just loosen up so he just tightened them up then shock welded the thread so that the nut cant go down anymore, ****ty part is that if i wanted to take them off id have to cut the bolt.. but i dont plan on taking them off.
Even tho im still getting a tick.. but tahts been like that since i got the damn headers on and i cant figure out how to get it to stop.. its soo annoying.
99\' W68 Firebird<br />SLP Ram air kit,Whisper Air Lid, k&n, 8mm Taylor Wires, Bridgestone Potenzas RE950, BMR Red LCAs, Pacesetter Headers and 3\"in catalytic converter with 2.75\" Flowmaster Cat-back<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/501008\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/501008</a>
I feel your pain with the header flanges. What I did was buy all new shorter bolts, new washers, lock washers, locking nuts with teflon, and regular locking nuts.
Now your probably saying DAM thats a lot of crap well thats what it friggen takes to seal these things up. Sort of...
I put a bolt with washer in from the top, then another regular washer, then a lock washer, then the locking nuts w/Teflon(smoked a little), and then drove it around for a night. The next day I tightened them up again, added blue loc-tite and then a regular locking nut butted up against the teflon locking nut.
Another trick with these things is not to tighen down one side all the way and to not tighten down one whole flang before you hand tighten or loosely tighten the other side. Get it all snugged up evenly then crank those mothers down.
Hope that helps.....but I still have a SMALL tic nothing like before though.
Shane
Oh yeah, I also had a friggen hole on the top of the y-pipe, where the 2 pipes meet in the collector and go into the cat. Took me forever to find that.
Shane
were you guys tripping any 02 codes from your leaks? mines still leaking at the ypipe, and im getting o2 codes like crazy. will sims help? what about welding the ypipe to the headers?
I have a 3.4 and even I have bad leaks on the y pipe, it sucks *** when I get time to do it im gonna put some gasket around the ball joints hopefully that will stop.
I was thinking about welding the y pipe, but I was worried I might have to take it off later, so I guess it's a nono.
i have a question based on this thread.
i just ordered pacesetters, and now i am wondering if i should just have it welded since there seems to be problems.
i dont plan on taking the stuff off, so....
can i? is it a foolish thing to do?
3.8
Haven’t done anything on the Camaro, but put LEDs on my truck headlights . And my oil pressure sensor went out on the truck so going to fix that this...
Haven’t done anything on the Camaro, but put LEDs on my truck headlights . And my oil pressure sensor went out on the truck so going to fix that this...
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