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  • Raised Air box?

    I've been checking mods on some of the top guns on this board. One that keeps coming up is a raised intake lid. How did you all do this? And why? All I can think of is that it would straighten out the pipe that runs from the lid to the throttle body. And does it make solid difference?

    Thanks in advance. :D
    99 White 5-speed camaro 3.8<br />K&N airbox+filter, RK sport ram air, NX Wet system 75hp shot Falken tires, red big attitude stripes, red cardon rear letters and front emblem

  • #2
    It creates a bigger air inlet. Yes, you can tell the difference if you get on it. I went one step further and cut out the rest of the bottom of the airbox, exposing more of the filter to the increased inlet size. Done by putting 2mm washers under the 2 outer bolts that hold the lid down, shooting for a height of 6mm. 7mm was the closest I could get. Do not reinstall the inner bolts. Design later revised to use 1/2 inch spacers instead of the washers. I'm still using the washers. Any of the parts can be found at home depot, lowe's, etc. Takes a whole 3 minutes to do.
    <b>1998 Firebird 3800 Series II, A4</b><br />Direct-Flo Lid,K&N Filter,DEE TB Spacer,TPS-TEC,ZZP Mini-AFC,Raised and Cutout Airbox 7mm,BMR STB & Boxed LCAs,KYB AGX Shocks,Drilled/Slotted Rotors,180* Thermo,2.5\" Catco Cat,Dynomax 2.75\" custom catback,Kumho Ecstas/245,Jet Stage 2,3.42,Edge Racing 2870 Stall,B&M Tranny Cooler,B&M Deep Tranny Pan,LSD,AAM Girdle,1LE DS,NX Wet Kit,MSD DIS-4,MSD Blaster Coil Packs,Taylor Spiro Pro 8mm Wires,NGK TR6\'S gapped .045,ZZP UD WP Pulley,SLP Fan Switch,TT II\'s<br />N/A: 15.6342 @ 88.44 (On stock converter. Strugglin\' to beat it.)<br />Nitrous 50 Shot: 14.7463 @ 93.49

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    • #3
      or, get a ram air hood and a ws6 ram air box. or at least lokk at the 2 lower parts of the boxes and compare. the ws6 has like 2 inches of air inlet height compared to our measly 1 in. stock. bolt patters are the same, so just save up for a hood and get the ws6 box.
      2001 Arctic White Firebird<br />T-Tops, 3.42 rear gear stock<br />Mods:K&N Air Filter,Whisper Air Induction Lid, maf screen removed, raised air box, Kumho Ecsta 712 255-50-ZR16 tires, BMR stb<br />Mods not installed yet: FTRA, SLP Lsd/Differential cover<br />Near Future Mods: HPP3, GMMG 3\" Exhaust , 1LE Swaybars, Transgo Shift Kit, MSD-DIS-4 w/ Accel Coil-Packs, Turquoise Blue Neon Underbody Kit, BMR Adj. LCA\'s, G2 Sfc\'s & V-braces, Pacesetter headers

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      • #4
        Pat and I are thinking similar on this issue, but…
        I'm not sure if the WS6 box will work with anything besides the WS6 hood. There are a few "WS6 Styled" hoods on the market, but I can't say that they are set up the same underneath as the real WS6 hood. I know that I've read a post on this board where a member said that it (the WS6 airbox) wouldn't work with aftermarket ram air hoods. Some of these WS6 styled hoods have the option of purchasing and airbox that works with them.
        In reference to the 2 inch inlet, raising our stock airbox, whether by washers or spacers, will gain you half an inch. That will bring your inlet space to 1 1/4 inches, which in my opinion is enough for a V6. This does not include the possible residual 1 inch total inlet space gained on the sides of the stock inlet. Cutting out the bottom of the box(part of the "free ram air" mod) will increase the size for approximately 40% of the airbox that was restricted to around a quarter inch inlet. This is easily done, and is very cost effective. Combine this with an SLP ram air hood(this is what I'm gonna do, check sig), or another hood which is designed to work with the factory airbox, and you have a potent, cost effective mod. Leaves a little money in the pocket for the next mod. Hope this helps.
        <b>1998 Firebird 3800 Series II, A4</b><br />Direct-Flo Lid,K&N Filter,DEE TB Spacer,TPS-TEC,ZZP Mini-AFC,Raised and Cutout Airbox 7mm,BMR STB & Boxed LCAs,KYB AGX Shocks,Drilled/Slotted Rotors,180* Thermo,2.5\" Catco Cat,Dynomax 2.75\" custom catback,Kumho Ecstas/245,Jet Stage 2,3.42,Edge Racing 2870 Stall,B&M Tranny Cooler,B&M Deep Tranny Pan,LSD,AAM Girdle,1LE DS,NX Wet Kit,MSD DIS-4,MSD Blaster Coil Packs,Taylor Spiro Pro 8mm Wires,NGK TR6\'S gapped .045,ZZP UD WP Pulley,SLP Fan Switch,TT II\'s<br />N/A: 15.6342 @ 88.44 (On stock converter. Strugglin\' to beat it.)<br />Nitrous 50 Shot: 14.7463 @ 93.49

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        • #5
          <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by AMinor65:
          In reference to the 2 inch inlet, raising our stock airbox, whether by washers or spacers, will gain you half an inch. That will bring your inlet space to 1 1/4 inches, which in my opinion is enough for a V6. This does not include the possible residual 1 inch total inlet space gained on the sides of the stock inlet. Cutting out the bottom of the box(part of the "free ram air" mod) will increase the size for approximately 40% of the airbox that was restricted to around a quarter inch inlet.
          .
          <hr></blockquote>

          So the original inlet size is .75"?? and the total would be 1 1/4 inch and not 2 inches??

          Anyone done this raised lid along with the FRA mod??

          [img]graemlins/burnout.gif[/img]
          1999 Pewter Camaro M5<br />Y87 Performance Package, Sport Appearance Package, Diamond Clears<br />Factory SS Hood, Free Ram Air Mod, Whisper Lid w/ K&N Air Filter<br />CarSound Cat 94009, B&B Tri-Flo w/ Quad Tips<br />BMR SFC, BMR STB, KVR Blank Rotors, Hawk HPS Pads<br />Black Painted Calipers w/ CAMARO Decal, 245/50 Dunlop SP Sport 5000<br />20% Rear 35% Side Tint, Red Reflective Inlays, Invincishield<br /><b>Young girls avert their eyes, weak men tremble, Ford dealers faint.</b>

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          • #6
            I found out and experienced having BOTH the FRA (or the kit) AND the raised air box defeats the purpose, because air is escaping.
            <b>99 Camaro Z28 A4</b><br />R.I.P. 00 Firebird 3.8<br />14.89 @ 90, 2.03 60\'

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            • #7
              Shortdog's right! It would kill the increased air velocity from the free ram air.
              <b>1998 Firebird 3800 Series II, A4</b><br />Direct-Flo Lid,K&N Filter,DEE TB Spacer,TPS-TEC,ZZP Mini-AFC,Raised and Cutout Airbox 7mm,BMR STB & Boxed LCAs,KYB AGX Shocks,Drilled/Slotted Rotors,180* Thermo,2.5\" Catco Cat,Dynomax 2.75\" custom catback,Kumho Ecstas/245,Jet Stage 2,3.42,Edge Racing 2870 Stall,B&M Tranny Cooler,B&M Deep Tranny Pan,LSD,AAM Girdle,1LE DS,NX Wet Kit,MSD DIS-4,MSD Blaster Coil Packs,Taylor Spiro Pro 8mm Wires,NGK TR6\'S gapped .045,ZZP UD WP Pulley,SLP Fan Switch,TT II\'s<br />N/A: 15.6342 @ 88.44 (On stock converter. Strugglin\' to beat it.)<br />Nitrous 50 Shot: 14.7463 @ 93.49

              Comment


              • #8
                I have a better way to raise it - 1/2" in fact.

                See my website for details.
                2002 5-spd NBM Camaro
                Details: www.1lev6.com

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                • #9
                  Free Ram Air kicks A S S...but you do have to do it aa little different than what it says on www.installuniverity.com..cut all that plactic crap off of the top of the radiator housing.it does nothin..I felt a major kick in the *** with this mod above 4000 RPM's.

                  I was at the exhaust shop gettin my 3 inch installed a few months ago and was lookin up near the air damn..and yeah from the bottom i could see my filter..air would deflect off the air damn and go stright into the filter..there no way it wouldnt work..

                  Jeff W

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                  • #10
                    <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by NBMA4V6:
                    Free Ram Air kicks A S S...but you do have to do it aa little different than what it says on www.installuniverity.com..cut all that plactic crap off of the top of the radiator housing.it does nothin..I felt a major kick in the *** with this mod above 4000 RPM's.

                    I was at the exhaust shop gettin my 3 inch installed a few months ago and was lookin up near the air damn..and yeah from the bottom i could see my filter..air would deflect off the air damn and go stright into the filter..there no way it wouldnt work..

                    Jeff W
                    <hr></blockquote>
                    Eh?

                    Yeah, I have the FRA for a while now and I definitely felt the difference. It was more free revving afterwards.
                    I wanted to raise the lid so I can block off the FRA to keep the filter cleaner.
                    [img]graemlins/burnout.gif[/img]
                    1999 Pewter Camaro M5<br />Y87 Performance Package, Sport Appearance Package, Diamond Clears<br />Factory SS Hood, Free Ram Air Mod, Whisper Lid w/ K&N Air Filter<br />CarSound Cat 94009, B&B Tri-Flo w/ Quad Tips<br />BMR SFC, BMR STB, KVR Blank Rotors, Hawk HPS Pads<br />Black Painted Calipers w/ CAMARO Decal, 245/50 Dunlop SP Sport 5000<br />20% Rear 35% Side Tint, Red Reflective Inlays, Invincishield<br /><b>Young girls avert their eyes, weak men tremble, Ford dealers faint.</b>

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Dominic:
                      I have a better way to raise it - 1/2" in fact.

                      See my website for details.
                      <hr></blockquote>

                      Yeah, I read that post of yours on page 7 or something....I guess I'll pay a visit to Lowes and try it out...
                      [img]graemlins/burnout.gif[/img]
                      1999 Pewter Camaro M5<br />Y87 Performance Package, Sport Appearance Package, Diamond Clears<br />Factory SS Hood, Free Ram Air Mod, Whisper Lid w/ K&N Air Filter<br />CarSound Cat 94009, B&B Tri-Flo w/ Quad Tips<br />BMR SFC, BMR STB, KVR Blank Rotors, Hawk HPS Pads<br />Black Painted Calipers w/ CAMARO Decal, 245/50 Dunlop SP Sport 5000<br />20% Rear 35% Side Tint, Red Reflective Inlays, Invincishield<br /><b>Young girls avert their eyes, weak men tremble, Ford dealers faint.</b>

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                      • #12
                        If you guys are worried about air escaping through the raised airbox, then cut out the nostrils in the hood. The forward pressure on the nostrils will be greater than the pressure from the free raim air. Currently, I have only done the passenger side nostril. It takes a dremel, silicon graphite cutting blades, and a hacksaw blade, unless you want to go through about 20 of them cutting disks at $6 for a set of five. And I would definitely recommend to cut any spare plastic in the air box (i.e. the crossmembers). No dyno, but I would like to see someone's results.

                        [img]graemlins/burnout.gif[/img]
                        Zaino; FireBatCave Decals; Red Inside<br /><br />K&N Filter & Lid; Removed MAF screen; FRA; Raised Air Box; 180°F Stat; BMR STB; 3\" Catco & S-pipe; Borla Cat-Back; O2 Sim; HPPIII; NGK TR55s; Taylor 8mm wires<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/cbass300\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/cbass300</a>

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