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Magnus did you notice any gains? Probably not- but...
I have a turbo getting ready to go in soon and if the exhaust gas is partially being robbed from the manifolds, that means less into the turbo- if it makes the exhaust gas hotter by blocking it off, then that's good because turbos do better with hotter air.
AIM: escalier deverre<br />\'02 Pearl Blue Metallic RSX-S (daily driver)<br />\'98 Black Firebird<br />98 V6 turbocharged to 02 LS1 swap<br />\'02 LS1/4L60E<br />LS6 Block, LS6 Intake Manifold, Thunder Racing 215/220 .600/.523/115 Cam, Titanium Retainers, Crane Double Valve Springs, 125 shot NX Wet Kit w/ NOS brand Purge, True Dual \"H\" Pipe w/ two chambers and dumps, 17x11(rear) and 17x9.5(front) Black Powdercoated ZR1 Replicas on 315 and 275 BFGoodrich Comp T/A\'s (Street)/ET Drags/Skinnies on Weldlites(Track), 3.42/LSD
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by xjarayax: Magnus did you notice any gains? Probably not- but...
...means less into the turbo- if it makes the exhaust gas hotter by blocking it off, then that's good because turbos do better with hotter air.<hr></blockquote>
There are no wot gains, because the egr doesn't work at wot anyway.
The airflow through the egr valve is probably not enough to be a factor, the turbo shouldn't notice the difference. And at wot (or near wot) the egr valve is going to close anyway.
I finally had to put mine back on, because even with it wired, but the tubing blocked off, the pcm still sets a code. And now, for emissions testing here, they check for codes (new feature as of this year).
I cleared the code right before testing, and their computer detected that my "monitors" weren't ready, meaning the car hadn't been run enough since the last time it was cleared. And once I ran it a little bit, the light came back. So I had to re-enable the egr on mine.
I have done the EGR reroute on my 2k1 with very good results in mid-range rpms. The engine is N/A.
To solve the code throwing problem I simply routed a tube from the IAT sensor opening in the air lid to the EGR so I still get adequate air flow to and through the EGR and it is filtered air.
In order to use a 160 thermo I hade to bridge the the IAT harness with a 18K resistor so I had no need for the IAT sensor and could use the sensor location for air pickup.
If interested, I can send you a pdf file with pictures that shows all better than I have described it here.
2001 Camaro M5 Coupe(1 of 2,737), no options, Whisper Lid, K&N Air Filter, Free Ram Air, MAFS Screen removed, SLP Manual Fan Switch, 160 thermo, DEE\'s T/B Spacer, EGR Block-off plate, IAT resistor, CAI to EGR air feed, B&M Ripper Shifter, SLP Replacement Grill, T/A Exhaust, SLP five spoke take-off wheels, BMR strut-tower brace, BMR Tunnel Brace, BMR 32/21 front & rear sway bars with poly, BMR Poly/Combo Rear Control Arms, Clear front & rear corners, HPP3 modified 87 Octane program.<p><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/red2k1\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/red2k1</a>
So my truck is finally getting some work done, after 17 years, Oil pressure sensor went out and it’s located under the lower intake manifold. Have to...
Hey guys. For starters I’ve always been a big car guy, I love all types of cars and can appreciate all types of engineering. I’ve always been a Chevy...
Has anyone used zzp gt1 cam if so is it worth the money and time
4 weeks ago
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