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well me and my buddy my sophmore year in high school decided we were man enough to take apart his 3.4 and replace a head gasket...bad idea, i dont know what happened but it ran like crap and then locked up. im just sayin it takes experience.
Team NoVa
2000 Firebird- Intake, Pacesetters, !cat, full 2.5 to flowcrapster, 1.9 rockers, LS6 springs and Intense modded retainers, WS6 speedlines, T/A bumpers and hatch, 5 spd swapped, SOON TO BE nitrous'd and cammed.
I've been reading some other threads about this and I noticed a few people had problems with bolts breaking. Should I try to find some extras to have on hand? If so, where can you get them? Thanks!
well me and my buddy my sophmore year in high school decided we were man enough to take apart his 3.4 and replace a head gasket...bad idea, i dont know what happened but it ran like crap and then locked up. im just sayin it takes experience.
agreed you can mess it up. I've just seen it happen to where someone has had the egine apart and then had to take it apart 20k miles later to do the head gasket. It's really up to the person though
Car expresses who you are. If you have a ****ty car, you must be a ****ty person;)<br /><br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/ride/995979\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/ride/995979</a>
agreed you can mess it up. I've just seen it happen to where someone has had the egine apart and then had to take it apart 20k miles later to do the head gasket. It's really up to the person though
thats the point.. i am a HUGE believer of "if it aint broke, dont fix it" but that usually deals with stuff that can give you headaches in the future.. like if your rear main seal isnt leaking, there is no reason to remove the transmission just to replace the rear main, because when you put everything back together it might start leaking on you
if you are going to tear the engine apart to the point there the lifters are right in front of you, i sure as hell would replace them, it takes literally 10 minutes to get them out and put them back in, and you never know when a lifter is gonna start tapping, or collapse.. especially on a high mileage engine, then you are gonna have to tear it all back apart again, AND replace the gaskets again.
for instance, when i changed my clutch, i changed everything, including the pilot bearing, and TO bearing/slave cylinder, there was no way i wanted to drop the trans, change the clutch, put everything back together then have the slave fail 10k miles later
I've been reading some other threads about this and I noticed a few people had problems with bolts breaking. Should I try to find some extras to have on hand? If so, where can you get them? Thanks!
i did both heads on my car and didnt break a single bolt. the bolts that normally break are on the exhaust side from being heated to extreme then cooled repeatedly.
Team NoVa
2000 Firebird- Intake, Pacesetters, !cat, full 2.5 to flowcrapster, 1.9 rockers, LS6 springs and Intense modded retainers, WS6 speedlines, T/A bumpers and hatch, 5 spd swapped, SOON TO BE nitrous'd and cammed.
Cool. Do I really need to replace my valve cover grommets? Also are the upper and lower injector orings the same? Autozone has two diff part#'s fo upper and lower and they only come in packs of four. Plus my haynes manual says they are black and brown orings for top and bottom. Also do I use the blue locktite? Oh yeah I just changed my oil 300 miles ago. After I finish this do I really need to change it again?
thanks!
personally i woul use the assembly stuff, and not locktite, since it can give you false torque readings.. thats just what i have read throughout the years though..
anyways, yes i would change the oil, just incase some dirt got somewhere where it shouldnt be
Oh. I read in the repair manual where it said to use locktite on the bolts for the upper and lower intake manifold. I was just wondering if I should use the red or blue locktite or use something else.
Lifters mentioned being swapped... what's the valvetrain adjustment after install?
Extra attention to detail! :twak: Write it down.
Black \'96 RS Camaro, 3.8 V6 Series II, M5, Stock 200 HP, 204K miles! Stock \'91 Firebird 3.1 V6 automatic w/ overdrive. 266,400 miles on it. \'83 Pontiac Trans Am,305 LG4, Cowl Induction,Borg Warner 5 Speed,T-Tops,Gale Banks Exhaust System:$800 obo
Just FYI, I wouldn't recconmend getting the lifters from autozone
Car expresses who you are. If you have a ****ty car, you must be a ****ty person;)<br /><br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/ride/995979\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/ride/995979</a>
I didnt use loctite on the bolts when i did mine. the one and only thing you need to remember..
Use a GOOD torque wrench. not some cheap *** one. make sure you follow the directions to the "T" when it comes to putting it back together and having the torque right, because if not, you will end up having gaps, and gaps mean blown gaskets. All in all the hardest part of the whole process was having that damn hood in the way and bending over. other than that, it was pretty simple. But would of been easier if the motor wasnt so far back. Just remember where everything goes. I'd use the lighter loctite I think its the red...
make sure nothing falls into the valvetrain, and keep it all clean. everything else will fall into place.
for any reason you do replace your lifters. use assembly lube. it'll prevent problems later
Ok thanks everyone for all your advice. I have all the parts I need now except getting a good torque wrench. I have one of those cheap great neck ones. I'll have to borrow a good one from my uncle. I am going to start on this Thursday when I get off of work. I'll be off for a week so I should have plenty of time lol! I'll post some pics when I get done.
also autozone rents a pretty nice torque wrench. It's $100, but you get all your money back. it's also fairly accurate
Car expresses who you are. If you have a ****ty car, you must be a ****ty person;)<br /><br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/ride/995979\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/ride/995979</a>
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