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Planning on a NX wet kit, up too a 100 shot. I'm fairly new to this. Know i'll need an FMU, and all those miscellaneous toys to go along with it. Doesn't the wet kit hit harder, and tend to be safer? Will have stock internals, except a similar SSM cam (from comp) and ported/polished upper intake manifold. I think 100 shot will be good for now.
wet kits are safer because they spray the gas with the nos and you should not have to worry about running lean looks like your gonna have a nice ride there
1998 Jet Black Trans-am M6 T-tops<br />\"Ask, and it shall be given you; seek, and ye shall find: knock and it shall be opened unto you:-Matthew 7:7<br />Old car<br /><a href=\"http://matthew27529.tripod.com/getsome\" target=\"_blank\">http://matthew27529.tripod.com/getsome</a><br />NEW CAR<br /><a href=\"http://garnerebel.tripod.com/\" target=\"_blank\">http://garnerebel.tripod.com/</a>
hell yes! thanks, i'm lookin forward to put all this stuff on. big reason is that i got alot of friends talkin trash about my car, and a guy has a 97 WS6 that always says i have a girl car. his is stock except hypertech and a crappy sounding flowmaster catback. by the end of the school year he is going DOWN!!!!
I also remember seeing a little "toy" you can use with nitrous....something about how you can adjust the level of how hard it hits in a given amount of time, so you won't spin off the line and it comes on like a freight train! What is that called?
I'd run a master switch, bottle warmer, blanket, and what else am i forgetting?
i would suggest a fuel pressure gauge and air/fuel guage i got mine from: www.nordskogperformance.com
but they are on summit that is where i ordered mine plus they are cheaper from summit that is the company though
i am not sure if you will need a fuel pressure saftey switch since you are running a wet ask ironman24 or magnus they can tell you what all you will need they have nice wet setups and know there stuff good luck !
1998 Jet Black Trans-am M6 T-tops<br />\"Ask, and it shall be given you; seek, and ye shall find: knock and it shall be opened unto you:-Matthew 7:7<br />Old car<br /><a href=\"http://matthew27529.tripod.com/getsome\" target=\"_blank\">http://matthew27529.tripod.com/getsome</a><br />NEW CAR<br /><a href=\"http://garnerebel.tripod.com/\" target=\"_blank\">http://garnerebel.tripod.com/</a>
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Scott Black: I also remember seeing a little "toy" you can use with nitrous....something about how you can adjust the level of how hard it hits in a given amount of time, so you won't spin off the line and it comes on like a freight train! What is that called? <hr></blockquote>
It's called a Progressive Nitrous Timer.
There are two types; one is time-based, you adjust the amount of juice that hits immediately, and then how much is added over a five second period. As with most nitrous setups, you have to be at WOT.
The other is a little different, and you DON'T have to be at WOT to use it. The throttle controlled setup taps into the throttle position sensor and increases the amount of nitrous as you push the go pedal down furthur.
Either one should be helpful in schooling the WS6 braggart.
I hate to be the bringer of bad news but I feel I must tell you. There are some dangers with a wet kit. Our intakes are not designed to flow fuel, only air. There are some very big differences between a carb intake and an EFI intake. If some of the fuel you spray in sticks the the walls of the intake....BOOM. This has happened before to a few LS1 and LT1 guys I talk to. Now this does not always happen infact it is very uncomin but it is still a risk. Here is a little information that you might want to read about the dangers of both setups: N20 tech
White 98 Camaro with t-tops leather and Y87. For more info on mods just ask.<br />1/4=14.9<br />2002 Xterra V6 A4
Wouldn't the ported and polished intake help to decrease that? That is what i plan on doing along with it. It would be from Supersix, not home ported (not to dog Mike's work).
Dry vs wet, both kits have goods and bads
Wet has a nice perfect mixture of fuel and air in the intake manifold begging for a spark to ignite it.
Dry systems can go lean due to lack of fuel of course :D
Wet kits typically hit harder and generate more torque to the rear wheels.
From what I've read comparing my nos dry kit vs tnt wet kit:
120 dry is similar to 100 wet (Wet will make more torque though)
You probably will not need a fuel management unit.
Magnus has a bigger pump and maf, i run an afpr, modifed computer, and boost a pump
Nitrous progressive controllers are kinda hard core.
I'm guessing at $600 just for the unit.
It is really an incredible unit though.
Adjust how much is sprayed and at what time delay, cool huh?
Ported intake will not stop the potential intake backfire
Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet
Low rpm hits can cause it.
Most of the time it will not happen.
It could possibly happen but it is rare.
I usually just let people know of all the potentials.
Don't let that be the only thing that is holding you back.
We have a lot of wet kit owners who have never had an intake backfire
Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet
Yup, direct port sends the same amount of fuel and nitrous into each cylinder through the intake runners, not the intake.
Lots of $$$$
That upgrade on my system was quoted at $1000
Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet
Not much going on, replaced my Kenwood double din stereo with a Pioneer double din, the Kenwood had problems. Then replaced my power inverter for my reverse...
4 weeks ago
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