dry kit vs. wet kit

[Patrick Javert]

i understand that a dry kit is good up to maybe 100 hp, and a wet kit is good up to 150 hp(on a near stock V6 engine). where are the NO2 jets placed in a dry setup, before, or after the tb, or in the manifold itself? where are the jets in a wet kit, combined w/ the fuel injector, or somewhere else? Thanks for the info.

[Jason]

Jets for a Dry kit are usually located BEFORE the MAF so that it can add the correct amounts of fuel. If you place them AFTER the MAF, youve got a problem.

you Place the nozzle AFTER the Maf in a wet kit because the kit is adding fuel along with nitrous already. SUPPOSED to be safer to use on our cars but ive heard after you go so high it can lead to the fuel puddling up in the intake and then one of those NASTY nitrous backfires can occur.

Hope that helps

[southern94]

he pretty much coverd it what u said is true about dry up to 100 and wet up to 150 but on stock internals 150 is very risky although MIN has been running it for a while now so up to u

[99Camaro99]

I'm not going to use the word "safe" since it's debatable with N2O, so...

What would you say the percentage of problems are with people running an 85-shot (dry) on stock internals

[12secondv6]

85 dry shot on a well tuned car I never had one problem.
With a dry kit you want to mount the nozzle as far away from the maf as possible.
I only recently came across this.
It makes for a softer hit but cools much more effeciently.
Wet kits must be mounted after the maf, drill right into the throttle body and viola.
Our engines have the maf built into the throttle body, that is why we kinda have problems with wet kits and nozzle locations
85-100 on a dry kit is 'safe'
120 can be done 'safely'
wet can go higher
safe is used extremely loosely

[99Camaro99]

ok thanks 12sec v6. I'm going with the dry shot because I don't want to drill into my TB with warranty still on my car. 85 dry will be done as soon as I finish my catback and throw shift kit.


12SECV6, ANOTHER QUESTION. I talked to Rich D and he says I shouldn't go with a 3" catback because that's way to big. He recommended 2.5" but I'm thinking that's kinda small. What do you say?

[BadassSleeper]

99camaro99, i'm in the same boat with you. i want to run about a 60 shot system, but i don't want to void the warranty. does anyone have any suggestion of how I could do this without the risk of someone finding out i have the system? thanks for all the help.

[slacker69]

Well if you run dry just take it all out. If you run wet do what im gonna do and buy another throttle body and replace the one you tapped the nozzle in with the one you bought.

[12secondv6]

OK as for exhaust:
Lots of people love 3 inch exhaust from the y pipe back.
I have 2.5 inch pipe from my headers, to y pipe, to cat to the s bend.
After the s bend mine then enlarges to 3 inch there, then it is 3 inch into the muffler and dual 2.5 pipes out back

As for installing a nitrous kit which is under warrenty:
Well, make the kit removable
Do not drill into anything or get spare parts that can be drilled.
Hide the switches.
You would have to remove the fpss each time.
Plugs would have to be switched from nitrous plugs to stock ones.
Nozzle and tap area would have to be removable. You could have an aftermarket lid tapped for the nitrous line and keep the stock one and toss it back on each time it goes to the dealer.
Do not officially mount the bottle, strap it down for easy removal.
A lot of work and a lot of hassle

[Patrick Javert]

so, would I mount everything before thet throttle body, or after it but just before the intake manifold? also, what does "direct port nitrous injection" mean? does it have anything to do w/ the new "NOS-zles"?

also, could a throttle body spacer be made to accept "wet" kit plumbing? I heard that someone is making spacers for our cars in another forum, and I just wondered if the spacer could be used and then removed if warranty work had to be done? just a thought.

[ May 03, 2002: Message edited by: Patrick Javert ]</p>

[12secondv6]

As for where to mount the nozzle(s).
If it is dry then as far away from the throttle body as possible.
If it is wet then you must have the nozzle just after the maf.
Our cars are odd, our maf's are built right into the throttle body so that is why wet kits are kind of a pian to set up, but they work well!!!

Direct port injection systems:
This is a wet kit. Let's say we have a v6. Each intake runner gets a y fitting drilled into it. After the y fitting there is a nitrous and a fuel line connected to it.
You would have 6 y fittings, 1 per cylinder.
Basically you inject the exact same amount of nitorus per cylinder and you inject the fuel and nitrous right into it.
NOSzles, do a search for more info. It is like a poor mans direct port system but you could probably do a direct port for the same if not cheaper price
TB spacer, sure.
But the original person became backed up or stopped it. Don't wait for it

[DeathBuzzz]

When I had my kit on and my car was still under warranty, I put the nozzle ( dry ) in the whisper lid ( well on the long part taht attaches to the MAF ). I could just unscrew it. I mounted my bottle on a piece of marine plywood ( just very smooth and strong wood ) and just set in the the bottom of the hatch when i used it. It worked great. The N2O line I ran inside that car ( I know this was a very bad idea now, and I wouldnt do it again ). The line ran along my amp power line under the plastic strip between the carpet and door area, through the grommet in the firewall.

When I took my car in for warranty issues ( i only had to once with the kit installed ) i just pulled the nozzle and the bottle and wrapped the N2O line behind the PCM. No problems at all.

~Brian

[ May 03, 2002: Message edited by: DeathBuzzz ]</p>