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  • When to retard timing with a nitrous system

    Any time you increase cylinder pressure, power increases and ignition timing needs to be re evaluated.
    Nitrous creates a much quicker burn rate in the cylinder so it is always best to retard the timing to compensate.
    Greater nitrous loads require less total timing.
    But when to reduce?????

    Hp Increase (aka shot level) Timing Retard
    up to 100 0-2 degrees
    101-150 2 degrees
    151-200 4 degrees
    201-325 6 degrees
    326+ :eek: 8 degrees

    I've seen the question asked here and there so I thought I would post some info on it
    Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
    nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
    2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
    2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet

  • #2
    <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by 12secondv6:

    101-150 2 degrees
    <hr></blockquote>

    Thanks for the info!

    Did you have to retard your timing when you ran a 120 dry shot...?

    When I get my maf issues ironed out, I'm thinking about this next level. :cool:
    \'98 A4 Camaro v6-&gt;v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>

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    • #3
      Bone stock timing w/ 120 dry and 100 wet
      Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
      nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
      2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
      2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet

      Comment


      • #4
        james you are sooooo retarded!!! weeeeeeee! :D
        96 wht. firebird 5sd. rk sport headers,3in.catco, spintech catback,CAI,FRA,3.42/lsd 180*t-stat, centerforce dual friction clutch, ls1 driveshaft, polyurethane trans. mount.<br />01 blk. z28 m6, borla exht, lid, k<br />+n, sfc., chrome 18in. y2k c5 wheels.

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        • #5
          <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by 12secondv6:
          Any time you increase cylinder pressure, power increases and ignition timing needs to be re evaluated.
          Nitrous creates a much quicker burn rate in the cylinder so it is always best to retard the timing to compensate.
          Greater nitrous loads require less total timing.
          But when to reduce?????

          Hp Increase (aka shot level) Timing Retard
          up to 100 0-2 degrees
          101-150 2 degrees
          151-200 4 degrees
          201-325 6 degrees
          326+ :eek: 8 degrees

          I've seen the question asked here and there so I thought I would post some info on it
          <hr></blockquote>

          James, do these numbers apply to both wet and dry shots? or should there be different numbers for wet and dry?

          Comment


          • #6
            Wet and dry for the timing retarding
            Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
            nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
            2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
            2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet

            Comment


            • #7
              I think timing should be retarted even more.

              On my 12.3 pass the autotap log showed around 12 degrees of KR or so and a total timing advance of 13. 13 degrees of timing advance all the way down the track opposed to the 30 I try to push NA.

              I think the tables should look more like this:

              000-100 4 degrees
              101-150 6 degrees
              151-200 8 degrees

              Combustion happens so fast on nitrous you don't need to pre-ignite the mixture so soon...

              At least that what I think. *shrug*

              - Keith
              Keith - Chicago<br /><a href=\"http://www.hptuners.com\" target=\"_blank\">HP Tuners - PCM Reprogramming</a><br /><a href=\"http://www.dxsoftware.com/magnus/\" target=\"_blank\">97 Firebird V6 to LS1 swap</a><br /><b>V8 9.967@132.78</b> 1.322 60\' NA Heads/Cam<br /><b>V8 10.295@128.48</b> 1.363 60\' NA Cam Only<br /><b>V8 10.987@119.31</b> 1.422 60\' NA Stock Internals<br /><b>V6 13.674@98.22</b> NA<br /><b>V6 12.394@104.91</b> N20 100HP

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              • #8
                Well I posted a rough figure.
                You did it right, ran the car, and got feedback from it.
                I still haven't scanned my bird when I'm juicing so I dunno.
                I will have to do that one of these days.
                Hmmmm, see, you always get me thinking :D
                Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
                nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
                2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
                2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet

                Comment


                • #9
                  I have been told to retard timing 2 deg.* for every 50 HP, so 75 would be retard 3*, 100=4* 200=8* etc.....

                  Is this not correct?

                  I read this on the net somewhere, I cant remember the site. I tried finding it but failed. This method looks pretty close to what magnus has said above.

                  [ July 22, 2002: Message edited by: pgriffith ]</p>

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