I am looking into getting nitrous. A guys i was talking to yesterday told me that there is a kit he could get me that is all computerized or whatever where if I turn a switch on the nitrous is there to use when i hammer on it, he said but then if i dont plan on using it i can just turn the switch off and i wont be able to use it, he said this kit will not be able to harm my engine at all. He said the kits that when you are racing and then push the button for the nitrous are the bad kits, and that those are the ones that can ruin your engine. The kit that he was talking about is like its there if you want it, all you have to do is punch it, have any of you guys heard of this kit, is it a good idea??
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Nitrous question (new to it)
99 Firebird Vert, Pewter Metalic<br />Fast Toys Ram Air<br />Jet Stage 2 Chip<br />17x8 Mille Miglia Emotion II Plus\'<br />wrapped in 245/35/17 Yokohama A520<br />Rhino Perf. Exhaust<br />K&N air filter<br />check pics at:<br /><a href=\"http://www.fastrides.com/members/v6birdy/\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.fastrides.com/members/v6birdy/</a>Tags: None
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That sounds to me like the venom kit and from what I've heard they work but not all the time I guess they take into account some conditions and if they aren't correct it won't spray.
as far as that brand I don't even know if anyone on the board is running one. They are overpriced and N.O.S., NX, TNT, all of the others are probably better kits.
There are always risks running Nitrous even with the computerized "safety" but a engine thats in good tune/condition and not going overboard on the amount people have done hundreds of passes at the track without a problem!
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Venom is probably the computerized one he is talking about. But as stated it is way overpriced and as far as I know it's a fancy progressive controller. But I could be wrong. I have heard someone on this board say they know someone that ran one on a V-6 F-body and you couldn't feel it, probably because it's progressive. But someone once said someone they knew doesn't mean crap. If you have the money give it a try. Personally I would just go with a NOS 5175 kit and take all the safety precautions and if you want to spend a little more buy a jacobs progressive controler (think it'll work on our car) or another brand. Do some research on this board and you'll know most everything there is to know for the intermediate nitrous enthusiast and some advanced stuff. And the whole switch thing is nothing more than a WOT or TPS (wide open throttle or throttle position sensor) switch with an arming switch. Armed and pedal down=nitrous flowing pedal up=nitrous not flowing un armed=no nitrous. Look into the window switch too. Your main worry is grenading and just added wear from extra power. It's all on this board and has been discussed multiple times1998 Red RS 3.8l A4<br /> Whisper - K&N - N20 - 1LE Panhard - Ghetto STB - 255/50ZR16 Ecsta<br /> Removed grille - Limo tint - blackouts - A-pillar cf a/f ratio<br /> Panasonic DF88 - 1 12\" Eclipse 88120.4 - Eclipse 3322 amp<p><a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/raven_rs\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cardomain.com/raven_rs</a>
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First, does this guy have nitrous on his car?
If no, don't even bother listening to him.
From what you are describing it sounds like a venom *cough crap cough* kit :D
First try a search in this section because we have discussed the pro's and cons of dry and wet kits also what kit works good with my 3.8.
Try that and then whatever questions you have after that let us knowRace car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet
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120 dry shot on a nos kit 5175
I now am going faster with a 100 wet tnt shot :D
no new dyno #'s yetRace car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet
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