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  • #16
    Um, That doesn't make sense from what I'm looking at under my hood. The vacuum I have coming off the intake doesn't even go the the FPR, it goes into some black thing then circles around the back of the engine then up the drivers side to a fuel line with a service port in it (green cap, tag says don't exceed 1psi max pressure)? (not exactly sure, the lines are hard to follow)

    The vacuum line off the FPR is a 1/8" line that runs around the back of the engine and to a sensor of some sort towards the back of the intake manifold (passenger side), then it leaves that sensor and enters a large wire loom so I have no idea from there.
    1998 Red RS 3.8l A4<br /> Whisper - K&N - N20 - 1LE Panhard - Ghetto STB - 255/50ZR16 Ecsta<br /> Removed grille - Limo tint - blackouts - A-pillar cf a/f ratio<br /> Panasonic DF88 - 1 12\" Eclipse 88120.4 - Eclipse 3322 amp<p><a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/raven_rs\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cardomain.com/raven_rs</a>

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    • #17
      <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by RaVeN1469:
      The vacuum line off the FPR is a 1/8" line that runs around the back of the engine and to a sensor of some sort towards the back of the intake manifold (passenger side), then it leaves that sensor and enters a large wire loom so I have no idea from there.<hr></blockquote>

      My internet access has been gone since Friday morning...

      Ok, you are on the right track, whether you realize it or not. [img]smile.gif[/img] The line attached to the fpr is the one.

      There is not vacuum coming from the fpr. The vacuum originates from that black thing on the intake, and is delivered to the fpr. The other line coming out of the black thing doesn't matter. I think it goes into the passenger compartment to feed the hvac controls.

      So you will need to replace that line from the black thing to the fpr. The base of the tee, with the jet, will go toward the black thing. The 2 sides of the tee will go to the fpr and to the blue regulator.

      Hope this helps clear it up. That black thing on the side of the intake confuses the whole picture, it does look like a sensor... But it's just a vacuum source coming off the intake. It probably contains some sort of check valve to prevent a backfire from rupturing the fpr.
      \'98 A4 Camaro v6-&gt;v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>

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      • #18
        Ok, I called NOS Tech just to see what they had to say. He said remove the vacuum line from the FPR and hook it to the bottom of the Tee. Then run a line from one side of the Tee to the FPR and the other side to the Nitrous regulator. I think thats basically what your saying.

        Seriously the line that goes from the intake to that black thing never goes to the FPR. The line from the FPR goes to a sensor that looks just like my AIC valve on the TB but it's towards the back of the manifold. Then a line goes out of that into a wire loom.
        1998 Red RS 3.8l A4<br /> Whisper - K&N - N20 - 1LE Panhard - Ghetto STB - 255/50ZR16 Ecsta<br /> Removed grille - Limo tint - blackouts - A-pillar cf a/f ratio<br /> Panasonic DF88 - 1 12\" Eclipse 88120.4 - Eclipse 3322 amp<p><a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/raven_rs\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cardomain.com/raven_rs</a>

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        • #19
          Sorry guys, brain hurts lately.
          OK, vacuum set up, you are all on the right track.
          The diagrams that john has are perfect.
          Now, the main question is where do I place my t fitting, for the vaccum supply for my nitrous system, on the factory vaccum set up???
          OK, there is a very thin black tube, it goes from the stock fuel pressure regulator on the passenger side, it then comes out of that and kinda heads towards the firewall for 3 inches, it then makes a 90 degree bend to follow the upper intake manifold and now it travel's towards to drivers side of the car, it travels for 5+ inches and then makes another 90 degree bend, it now travels towards the front of the car and connects to a thingee (my bird is still at the shop so I don't know the name of it :D )
          This is the line where you want to run (splice or insert) your t fitting.

          I hope that explains the location of the t fitting.

          Now, nozzle placement:
          Dry kits should be as far away from the throttle body as possible. Mounting in the air box is good. You will get a softer hit. You will really benifit from the cooling effect more.
          Wet kits should be as close to the throttle body as possible. Harder hit :D
          Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
          nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
          2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
          2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet

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          • #20
            Sure your brain isn't still hurting 12sec? FPR is on the drivers side unless I'm smoking crack. :D

            So you replace the vacuum line with the Tee and some more vacuum line. And the blue nut goes towards the thingy, one towards the FPR and one to the Nitrous regulator? I hope so cause thats how I did it yesterday along with my wiring, that means I'm a bottle mounting and a new jet away from spraying.
            [img]graemlins/fluffy.gif[/img]

            Shouldn't a wet kit be behind the MAF?

            When did you get the title NOS moderator? Thats sweet! Shouldn't it say nitrous though?
            [img]graemlins/burnout.gif[/img]
            1998 Red RS 3.8l A4<br /> Whisper - K&N - N20 - 1LE Panhard - Ghetto STB - 255/50ZR16 Ecsta<br /> Removed grille - Limo tint - blackouts - A-pillar cf a/f ratio<br /> Panasonic DF88 - 1 12\" Eclipse 88120.4 - Eclipse 3322 amp<p><a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/raven_rs\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cardomain.com/raven_rs</a>

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            • #21
              Wet behind the maf yes.
              As for nos moderator, hey, it was given to me, I'm happy :D
              Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
              nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
              2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
              2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet

              Comment


              • #22
                <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by RaVeN1469:
                So you replace the vacuum line with the Tee and some more vacuum line. And the blue nut goes towards the thingy, one towards the FPR and one to the Nitrous regulator? I hope so...<hr></blockquote>

                Yep. Same as the August 5 post:

                "Ok, you are on the right track, whether you realize it or not. The line attached to the fpr is the one...

                you will need to replace that line from the black thing to the fpr. The base of the tee, with the jet, will go toward the black thing. The 2 sides of the tee will go to the fpr and to the blue regulator."

                So when do you get the jet, and mount the bottle?! Let us know how it works out!!! You'll like it... :D
                \'98 A4 Camaro v6-&gt;v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>

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                • #23
                  One more question I have that isn't vacuum but I don't think worthy of another topic.

                  I have an SES light and have had it for quite some time ever since I tried a ghetto air silencer removal which was a nightmare in itself. But when I finally got my lid I had the code read and cleared. Code came back 10 minutes later and it says the IAC valve has been reset or turned off (can't remember which) by PSP, failed on or something. Ok so I replace the IAC, nope light still on. Thats all fine and dandy, this isn't the board for that, I know I have a topic in the intake section which no one yet knows what to do. What I'm wondering if either of you think this should keep me from flipping the switch? The IAC is like the Idle Air Control valve or something, so if it just handles idle I should have no problem with nitrous considering I'm always at WOT. As soon as I get the go ahead I'm running downtown to a local ricer shop to get a jet and fill the bottle. If you think otherwise I'll get this solved first.

                  Thanks for all the help, now that I know what was supposed to have been done things make more sense now that I reread them, I just had a bit of a misscommunication problem. But hey at least now theres a thread on Vacuum. Again thanks for the help.
                  1998 Red RS 3.8l A4<br /> Whisper - K&N - N20 - 1LE Panhard - Ghetto STB - 255/50ZR16 Ecsta<br /> Removed grille - Limo tint - blackouts - A-pillar cf a/f ratio<br /> Panasonic DF88 - 1 12\" Eclipse 88120.4 - Eclipse 3322 amp<p><a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/raven_rs\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cardomain.com/raven_rs</a>

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                  • #24
                    Vacuum thread was good [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]
                    As for the check engine light, I would not juice until it is gone, this is just me.
                    I don't want to chance it and I don't want to see a new nitrous user chance it and then later find out there was a problem that he didn't know that caused his engine to grenade.
                    Have someone w/ a scanner scan it or dealer assist you.
                    Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
                    nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
                    2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
                    2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet

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