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  • So I checked all my plugs....

    (This is in reference to my previous post about the misfires when spraying)
    I pulled them all out and they all looked good. I regapped them all to .035 (were at .040). I took it out for a test drive. I punched it and got a good kick, after less than 2 secs I let off, saving the 1 good race worth of nitrous for an unsuspecting LT1 that I might happen upon [img]graemlins/evilgrin.gif[/img] (it was sat night). I went out and drove around for a bit, but no fishies bit. On my way home I hit it one last time, and it started acting weird on me. No misfires this time, but it was very, very weak. As soon as the WOT switch was hit, I heard a loud clicking noise that repeated very quickly, kind of making a buzzing noise. This noise seemed to come from directly in front of me, on the other side of the firewall: right where the nitrous solenoids are. The whole time I had it floored (no more than 8 seconds), it never stopped pulling, but for brief instances it pulled harder than the rest of the time, kind of making it jumpy. I might have mistaken this for a misfire last time. There was no SES light this time either. I had my second FPSS bypassed, so the fuel and nitrous solenoids both got their ground from the one FPSS thats set somewhere between 35 and 40 psi I think. I'll verify this tomorrow if I can. What now?
    -<i>Travis</i><br /><b>99 Trans Am, Pewter, A4</b> Forged, stalled, and cammed<br /><b>85 Buick Regal WH1 T-Type</b> It\'d be cool if it ran...<br /><b>94 Camaro 3.4, Teal, M5</b> The daily beater

  • #2
    if the fpss is running correctly then could it be the microswitch on your wot switch may be dying out?
    where i used to work, we used microswitches on pumps that would go out after a while of use, i dont know what kind of microswitch is on your WOT switch but you might check it just to make sure its getting a good signal
    R.I.P \'99 Firebird, you will be missed<p>New toy - 2001 GSXR-750, Yoshimura Exhaust, Power Commander, Rebuilt Airbox

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    • #3
      If i am not mistaken, don't you want to just go ahead and give your fuel solenoid a good ground. You want the fuel to open up and then the FPSS to verify this and open the nitrous solenoid. The FPSS maybe going haywire because if the fuel solenoid is open it will be on, but it can't open unless the fuel pressure is up. Try just running the fuel solenoid to a plain ground, and let me know what happens.
      1997 Chevrolet Camaro v6 - 13.8@104MPH
      1997 Dodge Viper GTS

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      • #4
        <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by AZ3.8Camaro:
        If i am not mistaken, don't you want to just go ahead and give your fuel solenoid a good ground. You want the fuel to open up and then the FPSS to verify this and open the nitrous solenoid. The FPSS maybe going haywire because if the fuel solenoid is open it will be on, but it can't open unless the fuel pressure is up. Try just running the fuel solenoid to a plain ground, and let me know what happens.<hr></blockquote>

        That didn't make alot of sense to me... maybe I'm missing something. Here's how my setup is wired:

        First, +12V comes from the nitrous relay to the fuel and nitrous solenoids. Ground for the fuel solenoid comes from FPSS1 (located before the fuel solenoid). The fuel solenoid opens and pressurizes the line from the fuel solenoid to the nozzle. Then the ground for the nitrous solenoid is provided by FPSS2 (located after the fuel solenoid).

        The first FPSS is to make sure the fuel system has adequate pressure to run the nitrous system. The second FPSS is to make sure the fuel solenoid opens. If I simply grounded the fuel solenoid, then the first FPSS would be useless, as it would not provide a ground to anything. Then there would be know check on the fuel system pressure. Most systems (which only use one FPSS) wire the nitrous solenoid to this first FPSS (or sometimes both solenoids in a wet setup). If I was to wire it this way, then the second FPSS would be useless as it would not provide a ground to anything.

        [ September 11, 2002: Message edited by: 96BeastV6 ]</p>
        -<i>Travis</i><br /><b>99 Trans Am, Pewter, A4</b> Forged, stalled, and cammed<br /><b>85 Buick Regal WH1 T-Type</b> It\'d be cool if it ran...<br /><b>94 Camaro 3.4, Teal, M5</b> The daily beater

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        • #5
          Clogged solenoid?
          Or problem with plunger or spring inside?
          You might be having a similar problem like I did with my TNT solenoid, but mine was worse.
          I am sending mine back to TNT for them so service.
          You might want to think about doing that.
          Check to see if it is partially clogged first, cause you can still feel full power right?
          Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
          nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
          2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
          2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet

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          • #6
            I thought you said you have the 2nd FPSS bypassed? I was just saying to hook the first FPSS to the nitrous solenoid, not the fuel solenoid, sorry it was so confusing. Now that I read it back. I asked NOS where they recommend putting it, and they said on the nitrous solenoid. If you have 2 running, then its a different story.
            1997 Chevrolet Camaro v6 - 13.8@104MPH
            1997 Dodge Viper GTS

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            • #7
              it could be the FPSS activating i know when mine comes on it feels like the car is surgeing.
              <b><a href=\"http://www.sick-sixx.com\" target=\"_blank\">SICK-SIXX MEMBER</a></b><br />NA 14.345 with a 1.863 60 foot<br />Nitrous 13.03@99.5 with a 1.63 60 foot<br /><br />2000 Camaro 3.8L A4: USE TO HAVE Comp Cam 210/220 .535/.547 113lsa 111 I/C, Port and Polished Heads, NX Wet Kit 100 Shot, CPRA made by CP, RK Sport Headers

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              • #8
                Maybe he is getting inconsistant bottle pressure. Do you have a bottle heater?

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                • #9
                  <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by pgriffith:
                  Maybe he is getting inconsistant bottle pressure. Do you have a bottle heater?<hr></blockquote>

                  I was thinking the same thing

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                  • #10
                    He lives in florida. It COULD be a cold bottle, but i wouldnt think so in the summer. You never know.
                    1997 Chevrolet Camaro v6 - 13.8@104MPH
                    1997 Dodge Viper GTS

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                    • #11
                      <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by pgriffith:
                      Maybe he is getting inconsistant bottle pressure. <hr></blockquote>

                      Negative. Got a bottle heater and she keeps it at a good 1000 to 1100 psi when the bottle's full. On this last particular night, the bottle was getting close to empty. Pressure was at 900psi and maintained to 850psi throughout the spray.

                      <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by 12secondv6:
                      Check to see if it is partially clogged first, cause you can still feel full power right? <hr></blockquote>
                      No, on my last spray I could not feel full power at all. Felt more like 25% power.

                      <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by AZ3.8Camaro:
                      I thought you said you have the 2nd FPSS bypassed?<hr></blockquote>
                      Correct. I had forgotten about that (duh!). I currently have both the nitrous and fuel solenoids recieving ground off the first FPSS.


                      I don't have class or work tomorrow, so I will check the pressure on both FPSS's and make sure the solenoids aren't clogged. I also have 2 nitrous solenoids in line, so that in case one doesn't close the other will. I will test both solenoids individually, and remove one of them from the system. Also filling up the bottle tomorrow. I'll update in the afternoon.
                      Thanks everyone. [img]graemlins/burnout.gif[/img]
                      -<i>Travis</i><br /><b>99 Trans Am, Pewter, A4</b> Forged, stalled, and cammed<br /><b>85 Buick Regal WH1 T-Type</b> It\'d be cool if it ran...<br /><b>94 Camaro 3.4, Teal, M5</b> The daily beater

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Update us asap.
                        We gotta get you juicing again :D
                        Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
                        nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
                        2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
                        2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Ok, here's the update:
                          I pulled out the solenoids and they didn't seem to be clogged. I did the little "put-yer-mouth-on-it-n-blow" test to see if they were clogged. Yeah, so that's not the most accurate way to do it, but I don't think it's clogged. I think the problem is with the ground, which is coming from the FPSS, so my problem lies there. When I was testing out the solenoids, I noticed how loud the solenoid was when it opened. I also drug the ground wire across a grounded screw (to simulate an erratic ground) and I noticed how it opened and closed very fast, making a buzzing sound. I think this explains the buzzing noise that I was hearing. I'm waiting for the fuel pressure to drop out so I can put my fuel pressure tester on to set the FPSS. After I get that set, I'm going to fill up my bottle then hopefully she'll run all better. [img]graemlins/burnout.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/burnout.gif[/img]
                          -<i>Travis</i><br /><b>99 Trans Am, Pewter, A4</b> Forged, stalled, and cammed<br /><b>85 Buick Regal WH1 T-Type</b> It\'d be cool if it ran...<br /><b>94 Camaro 3.4, Teal, M5</b> The daily beater

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