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Dynoed the bird on the bottle, reults within
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I will stay t a 100 sho level.
I have no need to push it.
This engine gives me 31 mpg.
It consistently starts up fine, runs strong, it is basically awesome.
No need to blow it up just for a number.
I'll wiat till next year for the new motor.
I think I'll come close with a 12.2 or 12.3 thoughRace car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet
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Sweet numbers.
I am heading back to the track Saturday to try to get some runs.Hope it don't rain all day like it did last Saturday.2000 Navy Blue Firebird <br />3.8 A4 Y87<br />Member of the MTFBA (Middle Tennessee F-Body Association)<br />Factory dual exhaust,Pontiac Decal on w/s Cutout,A/F Ratio & FP guages<br />K&N Filter Taylor Spiro-Pro plug wires and NGK TR6\'s<br />Whisper lid,NX Wet 50 shot<br />Hotchkis LCA\'s & Panhard,Michelin Pilot XGT Z4 245/50ZR16<br />SLP Strut Tower Brace<br />NA 1/4-15.132@89.29 2.194 60\'<br />N20 1/4-14.174@98.04 2.228 60\'<br />F-Body Gathering 5 Trophy Winner
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Nice! :D Much better than your results last time, those were a touch disapointing.
When you mentioned that you changed the fuel jets because you went lean it got me thinking. Last time I sprayed with good bottle pressure I got multiple missfires and when I posted it you said I went lean. Do you think I should go for a higher jet number in my bypass? Or is my fuel system at it's max? I don't remember the jet number but I'll go check next time I go out to my car. I wish I had been keeping an eye on my a/f gauge, stupid me1998 Red RS 3.8l A4<br /> Whisper - K&N - N20 - 1LE Panhard - Ghetto STB - 255/50ZR16 Ecsta<br /> Removed grille - Limo tint - blackouts - A-pillar cf a/f ratio<br /> Panasonic DF88 - 1 12\" Eclipse 88120.4 - Eclipse 3322 amp<p><a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/raven_rs\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cardomain.com/raven_rs</a>
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Well, with my nos kit 5175 jetted for 120 hp I used the exact same fuel 'jet' as the 85 hp rating and juiced happily for 2+ years.
The TNT kit and the new motor seems to be a hungry set up [img]smile.gif[/img]
Best thing to do (and now I have learned this) is spend the money and hop on a dyno and spray it w/ a wideband to find out your air/fuel ratioRace car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by RaVeN1469:
...you said I went lean. Do you think I should go for a higher jet number in my bypass? Or is my fuel system at it's max?<hr></blockquote>
You can get a little more fuel out of your system, by bumping the fuel pressure up. You will need a smaller bypass jet to do this, not a larger one. (sounds backwards doesn't it...?)
The line to your fpr normally has vacuum on it. Less vacuum at the port gives you more fuel pressure.
At idle the vacuum is high, and the fuel pressure is lower. When you go wot, the vacuum drops to nearly zero, and the fuel pressure goes up.
When you spray, you end up applying positive pressure to the port instead of applying vacuum, which bumps the fuel pressure up even more.
A smaller bypass jet will let less of the nitrous escape into your intake via that vacuum line, and will cause even more pressure to be applied to your fpr port, causing your fuel pressure to be even higher.
I took mine down to about a 30 jet and got another 7-8 psi on the fuel pressure.\'98 A4 Camaro v6->v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by John_D.:
You will need a smaller bypass jet to do this, not a larger one. (sounds backwards doesn't it...?)<hr></blockquote>
It's all coming back to me now, had a whole thread discussing this. I can't remember if I hooked it up the opposite direction or not, I'll have to go look. It's been way to long since I've seen my car :( A couple days now
What I really need is a fuel pressure gauge! I know the local F-body club has dyno days but I'm in a different city now
12sec: once you forge your engine how much from the direct port could you theoretically take? I know your goin 150 but what is the safest max?1998 Red RS 3.8l A4<br /> Whisper - K&N - N20 - 1LE Panhard - Ghetto STB - 255/50ZR16 Ecsta<br /> Removed grille - Limo tint - blackouts - A-pillar cf a/f ratio<br /> Panasonic DF88 - 1 12\" Eclipse 88120.4 - Eclipse 3322 amp<p><a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/raven_rs\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cardomain.com/raven_rs</a>
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Well, I gotta say my disclaimer, no amount of nitrous is safe buuuuuuuut
We shall start with a 150 shot.
In theory we can go up to 200 :eek:
I think 200 will be knocking on 10's, probably around an 11.2 or something?Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet
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