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I got the Harlan window switch in the mail today and just finished installing it. It wasn't hard. I went and bought a relay for the switch to ground, which supplies the 12v for the nitrous relay. It is set to 6cyl mode with a low rpm of 3000 and a high rpm of 5500. It works perfectly! I highly reccomend this switch for those who are looking to use a window switch with the stock ignition.
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Bruce<br />2000 Silver 3.8L V6 Camaro M5<br />183.1 rwhp / 220.5 rwtq -
What does it wire into?2002 5-spd NBM Camaro
Details: www.1lev6.com -
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Dominic:
What does it wire into?<hr></blockquote>
The switch needs a switched 12v source, a ground, a tach signal, and it grounds an external device through a fourth wire. Instead of just a switched source I spliced into my master switch so that the window switch only gets power when the system is armed. Then I spliced into the tach line coming from the computer (on the top plug #54 on my 2000). The window switch can only handle .5 amps of current so you can't ground a solenoid through it or anything. I bought a relay which I have set up to provide the external 12v supply to the relay which activates the nitrous system when the master switch is armed. The window switch grounds that relay.
To test it I set the lower range at 3000 and the upper range at 5200 to give myself some room. Then I went out on the road, got up to 2500 rpms, activated the system, and hit the gas. The nitrous sprayed at exactly 3000 on the tach and shut down at exactly 5200. I have since moved the upper rpm to 5500.Bruce<br />2000 Silver 3.8L V6 Camaro M5<br />183.1 rwhp / 220.5 rwtqComment
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Really?
Sweeet.
I'm not an electrical person so all that stuff means nothing to me.
If it works then that is awesome!!!!Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yetComment
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How much was it and where did you buy it?
Anyone else use a window switch?Whisper Lid/K&N Intake, NOS 5175 Kit w/ Polished Bottle, Moser 3.42\'s w/ Auburn LSD, SLP Ram Air H.O. Hood, Pacesetter Ceramic Coat Headers-3\" in/out hi-flo cat, 3\" I-pipe, Edelbrock Muffler, Boyd Coddington Smoothie Two\'sComment
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I think beast v6 uses one. Hey tried and tried on the MSD switch but I think he gave up and bought a harlan.
I would use one, but as of now I see no need. I am careful.1997 Chevrolet Camaro v6 - 13.8@104MPH
1997 Dodge Viper GTS
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by IronMan:
How much was it and where did you buy it?
Anyone else use a window switch?<hr></blockquote>
http://www.harlan-engineering.com/store/store.htmlBruce<br />2000 Silver 3.8L V6 Camaro M5<br />183.1 rwhp / 220.5 rwtqComment
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by AZ3.8Camaro:
I would use one, but as of now I see no need. I am careful.<hr></blockquote>
Famous last words... [img]smile.gif[/img]
Yeah, I only had the window switch in for 3 passes at the track, then I stripped the car to sell. The switch did work well. Only thing with mine is that it had kind of a "delayed reaction" for me. I think the reason for that was because I was using it to provide a ground for the FPSS (thru a relay) instead of providing a +12V to something else (nitrous relay maybe). I had the switch set on at 3000, and it would come on around 3100. Off at 5700 came out more like 5850 or 5900.-<i>Travis</i><br /><b>99 Trans Am, Pewter, A4</b> Forged, stalled, and cammed<br /><b>85 Buick Regal WH1 T-Type</b> It\'d be cool if it ran...<br /><b>94 Camaro 3.4, Teal, M5</b> The daily beaterComment
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Your probably right about that. Well maybe you could throw in the switch if you decide to sell some of that stuff to me!
I just didn't ever want to hassle with it because I saw how much trouble you had with it. But if the harlan one works... then good times.1997 Chevrolet Camaro v6 - 13.8@104MPH
1997 Dodge Viper GTS
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by 96BeastV6:
Famous last words... [img]smile.gif[/img]
Yeah, I only had the window switch in for 3 passes at the track, then I stripped the car to sell. The switch did work well. Only thing with mine is that it had kind of a "delayed reaction" for me. I think the reason for that was because I was using it to provide a ground for the FPSS (thru a relay) instead of providing a +12V to something else (nitrous relay maybe). I had the switch set on at 3000, and it would come on around 3100. Off at 5700 came out more like 5850 or 5900.<hr></blockquote>
I haven't noticed any delay with mine. According to the tach it activates and deactivates where it is supposed to. The only thing I have noticed is that the switch takes a moment to power up. Since mine only has power when the master switch is armed there is a delay of a couple seconds before the nitrous sprays if I have the car over 3000 rpms and floored and then flip the switch.Bruce<br />2000 Silver 3.8L V6 Camaro M5<br />183.1 rwhp / 220.5 rwtqComment
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Good to hear.I have had mine for a couple months but I have not got around to installing it.
Thanks for the info.2000 Navy Blue Firebird <br />3.8 A4 Y87<br />Member of the MTFBA (Middle Tennessee F-Body Association)<br />Factory dual exhaust,Pontiac Decal on w/s Cutout,A/F Ratio & FP guages<br />K&N Filter Taylor Spiro-Pro plug wires and NGK TR6\'s<br />Whisper lid,NX Wet 50 shot<br />Hotchkis LCA\'s & Panhard,Michelin Pilot XGT Z4 245/50ZR16<br />SLP Strut Tower Brace<br />NA 1/4-15.132@89.29 2.194 60\'<br />N20 1/4-14.174@98.04 2.228 60\'<br />F-Body Gathering 5 Trophy WinnerComment
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I should be getting my Harlan switch for Christmas. Of course there's a little delay off the line before it hits, that's the point. As far as an electrical delay, like the current taking a few moments to get to it destination and make things kick in....Shouldn;t be noticeable at all, unless like one uy said he is using it to trigger a ground, that COULD take a bit more time, but I wouldn't expect more than a split second. Also, any window switch is gonna have a bit of error in the RPM it activates at. MSD, Harlen, Mallory, they all have this. It's because your RPM's are climbing pretty fast, and it just closes the circuit when you hit that RPM...Takes a split second after that RPM to actually feel the hit...The nitrous has to travel about a foot before it's in the cylinder to do its job.<a href=\"http://www.fullthrottlev6.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.fullthrottlev6.com</a> THE SOURCE!Comment
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by OneQuickV6:
Of course there's a little delay off the line before it hits, that's the point.<hr></blockquote>
I'm not saying off the line, I'm saying that before the window switch if I was driving along with the car floored above 3000rpms and I flipped the master switch the nitrous would activate immediately. Now it takes a couple seconds. The switch takes a second or two to power up. The delay could be eliminated I am sure if I wired the switch to a 12v supply that was on all the time. I have mine wired so that it only gets power when the master switch is armed.Bruce<br />2000 Silver 3.8L V6 Camaro M5<br />183.1 rwhp / 220.5 rwtqComment
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AHH! gotcha. I was just wondering why you wired it so that you are still kind of using the master switch like that....It seems like it is still kind of the "go" button, but the harlan switch is now just a safety device. I wouldn't have thought to ever wire it that way, I want current ready to pass thru any of the switched at a moment's notice, and as soon as the condition is met, it's go. My bad, I misunderstood you.<a href=\"http://www.fullthrottlev6.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.fullthrottlev6.com</a> THE SOURCE!Comment
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by OneQuickV6:
AHH! gotcha. I was just wondering why you wired it so that you are still kind of using the master switch like that....It seems like it is still kind of the "go" button, but the harlan switch is now just a safety device. I wouldn't have thought to ever wire it that way, I want current ready to pass thru any of the switched at a moment's notice, and as soon as the condition is met, it's go. My bad, I misunderstood you.<hr></blockquote>
Basically I wired it that way because it was convenient, and I didn't have to worry about finding a switched power source. I knew the wire from the master switch only had power when the master switch was armed. I don't use the switch as the "go" button anymore though. That was just one of the things I tried as part of my testing. With the window switch I just leave the system armed and the nitrous will only spray when it is supposed to. I can't wait to get to the track with it next month.
People seem to be talking a lot about having the window switch to avoid spraying during a missed shift. When I was looking to get the switch I never even considered missed shifts. I was thinking about the dangers of hitting the speed limiter or the rev limiter, or maybe of having the system armed and spraying at too low of an rpm. It seems to me that if you missed a shift the thing that would save you would be the wot switch, and then only if you didn't floor the car in combination with missing the shift. Even if the car was in neutral, with it floored or even at part throttle the window switch conditions could be met.
Unless a "missed shift" means you forget to shift at all in which case it would work to keep you from spraying at the rev limiter.Bruce<br />2000 Silver 3.8L V6 Camaro M5<br />183.1 rwhp / 220.5 rwtqComment
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