No i havent weighed the bottle before and after a fill i will start doing that and i will also let the bottle warmer get mor epressure before i make a pass. I ussally pull up snap the tires in the water box. Thn do a 20 sec burnout with laots of smoke time really depends if i dont see smoke i keep goin. Then i purge. Then i Pull up stall to 3000 rpms and the switch is setup on a WOT switch so i stopm on it and let it rip. I use MT ET streets 26x11.5/15 still good with plenty of tread. I might make a trip out to the track very soon to try some stuff. All mods are in the Sig only thing new is the subframe connectors i got for chrismas and a cam but i dont have those installed yet.
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Why cant i hit 12's on spray
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<b><a href=\"http://www.sick-sixx.com\" target=\"_blank\">SICK-SIXX MEMBER</a></b><br />NA 14.345 with a 1.863 60 foot<br />Nitrous 13.03@99.5 with a 1.63 60 foot<br /><br />2000 Camaro 3.8L A4: USE TO HAVE Comp Cam 210/220 .535/.547 113lsa 111 I/C, Port and Polished Heads, NX Wet Kit 100 Shot, CPRA made by CP, RK Sport Headers
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Looks like you might be losing sopme of that initial bottle pressure...Instead of just using your bottle warmer, put in a HOT bath tub or sink for about an hour or so before you head to the track. Make sure the water is evry hot to the touch, yur bottle pressure will get kind of high, but after that long drive, it'll be about right. As soon as you get in the car to go, put the warmer on it to try and keep the pressure. I use the bathtub method and "cycle" the warming to make sure all of it gets warm, not just the outside of the bottle. I see great top end all the time on the juice. HTH<a href=\"http://www.fullthrottlev6.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.fullthrottlev6.com</a> THE SOURCE!
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Stock 80,000 mile fuel pump on the 100 shot and also 2 passes on the 125 shot
I have the kenne bell boost a pump turned up to 50% and my computer was richened by superchips.
I would suggest the fuel pump though because it is safer.
Always weigh the bottle before and after.
My drive to the track is about 45-60 minutes. As soon as I leave my house I turn the warmer on, I keep the psi around 900-1000. I keep on turning it on and off
I do my burn out, stage (so the pre stage bulbs come on) purge and then roll to the stage bulbs are on and stall the converter
I have tried the warm bath water before.
I have seen no luck with it.
It does not hold psi, the electric warmer seems to work better.Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by xjarayax:
What all did you remove to get your car down to 3170 race weight w/o you?
Sam<hr></blockquote>
hehe I hit 3140 with jsut removing jack and spare...
My thoughts are the heads...
How ported are your heads don't magnus and 12 second have heads ported to hell for flow on the bottle?
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Only4U:
how many knocks per run? if you are getting less than 10 at 3-5 degrees, it's not too big of a deal...actually, that much knock for such a large nitrous shot i would think would be pretty normal. however, i wouldn't suggest running the 100+ octane on your car. a lot of cars won't even run with that high of octane gas. but i would buy an octane booster, and put about 1/3, or half in your gas tank before you race, maybe raise your 93 to about 97. i don't think it's a good idea to surpass 100 octane on our engines though, but to each their own.<hr></blockquote>
Man, don't give advice when you don't know what you are talking about. You obviously don't know what octane is or what it does. Duh, my car runs purdy on 93, Duh. You can run C16 aircraft fuel in your car if you were so inclined. Another thing, octane additives are crap, they do not add 4 points to the octane rating, the add .4 points or whatever there claim is, so 93 with octane booster would only get you 93.4 octane or so, not 97.
Back to slacker69, you need to get that KR under control. The way an obdII pcm works is that it pulls 3 degrees of timing advance for every 1 degree of KR. So when you see 3 degrees of KR, you are losing 9 degrees of timing advance. Hence, if your timing advance is 25 degrees, minus your KR, you are only seeing 16 degrees of total advance. Timing advance is the key to making power. In order to run the fastest you possibly can, you want to have the maximum timing advance, and leanest and lowest octane fuel with out preignition.
Lastly, Evan, don't hijack this thread now since I have dispelled your misconceptions. If you want to argue, take it somewhere else, if you want to learn, make a post and I'll be happy to share my knowledge.<a href=\"http://www.fullthrottlev6.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.fullthrottlev6.com</a><br /><a href=\"http://www.chitownracing.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.chitownracing.com</a>
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Yeah i think i will hit up the track maybe on Jan the 3rd i will try alot of things and see what happens i really like all the help and if anyone hijacks this thread i will delete the entire Topic so please help me if you can otherwise move on.<b><a href=\"http://www.sick-sixx.com\" target=\"_blank\">SICK-SIXX MEMBER</a></b><br />NA 14.345 with a 1.863 60 foot<br />Nitrous 13.03@99.5 with a 1.63 60 foot<br /><br />2000 Camaro 3.8L A4: USE TO HAVE Comp Cam 210/220 .535/.547 113lsa 111 I/C, Port and Polished Heads, NX Wet Kit 100 Shot, CPRA made by CP, RK Sport Headers
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Guys, please keep it nice in here.
Constructive criticism is appreciated, keep it at that only, thanksRace car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet
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hey slacker, you have a nx kiy, right? well from what i was told is the the bottle heater cuts off when your bottle psi reaches 950 psi. they do this for saftey reason i guess. sometimes i'lll heat mine up with the bottle closed to i can get it to 1100 psi which is the max i'll run at. i keep it closed to bypass the thermostat. this is dangerous i know but i keep a close eye. just trying to give you a help hint.. ;)
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by malloynx#2:
hey slacker, you have a nx kiy, right? well from what i was told is the the bottle heater cuts off when your bottle psi reaches 950 psi. they do this for saftey reason i guess. sometimes i'lll heat mine up with the bottle closed to i can get it to 1100 psi which is the max i'll run at. i keep it closed to bypass the thermostat. this is dangerous i know but i keep a close eye. just trying to give you a help hint.. ;) <hr></blockquote>
Yes, it will cut off at 950, I to had to by-pass it when I figured out what was going on [img]tongue.gif[/img] I usally run at 1050-1150. I to am on the stock fuel pump but I do have 24# injectors which really does no good without something to push them [img]tongue.gif[/img] Either Jan. 4th or the 5th I will be making my way back to the track, with intentions to keep uping the shot till she gives out on me(I am working on another motor) and see what kind of ET I can get out of her, I can only go up to 200hp jets, as thats all I have [img]tongue.gif[/img] Don't see her lasting past 150 maybe 175 if that :D I will be packing 2 bottles just in case, and I am sure there will be another there I can borrow ;) :D I have only a best of 14.5 N/A but I think my converter is more of a nitrous converter than a N/A converter, seems to scream through the 1/8th then just kinda settle off97 3.8L V6 Firebird <br />Former Board Name: RedBirdV6<br />Best N/A 1/4: 14.53@94 <br />Best Nitrous 1/4: 12.82@106
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by ssms5411Still trying to find oil leak on my Camaro, it’s a tough one. I think it is the oil pressure sender myself. Leaking when raving and going into boost....3 days ago
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