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  • Nitrous install in progress - lots of pictures

    I began putting on my nitrous setup about a week ago, but because of the weather I haven't been ablee to really get to it till today and class isn't helping. I finally got the bottle in, nitrous line run under the car, all the solenoids(N2O and fuel) secured and hooked up. I still need to do ALL the wiring(including bottle heater and window switch), drill and tap the throttle body for the nozzle, blowdown tube, and PSI guage(I will run the line for it off the bottle, see the pictures and you will see where), and put in the Taylor wires and NGK TR6's (gapped at .35, of course :D )

    This is a NOS-5175 dry kit converted to wet with Edlebrock fuel side. I can take more pictures on request but I think I covered just about everything.

    Let me know what you think, and any advice would be great. There is even a little video at the bottom that goes over the whole system.

    Nitrous Install
    Pictures are high resolution so give them a little bit to load.

  • #2
    Ok, please take this as constructive criticism k?
    Well, the system is not hooked up so you don't mind changing some things around right?

    I'll start from back of the car to the front:

    Why not mount the bottle in the spare tire wheel well? You could ditch the spare tire and jack in favor of a AAA card [img]smile.gif[/img] if this is not an option in your mind that is fine but I would turn the bottle so the knob faces the spare tire. Technically you want the bottle knob to face the nose though.
    Why do I say turn the bottle direction 180 degree's?
    Well under the hood I'm not liking the braided line placement.
    I would prefer to see the braided line run along the passenger side.
    Have the braided line enter the engine bay by the battery or computer.
    Go to my sig and you can see some placements of dry kit and wet kit solenoids.
    Right now you have the braided fuel line going from one side of the engine bay to the other across the engine and then you have to come back to where the throttle body is. This is just not needed.
    If you have all your solenoids mounted on the passenger side it seems to make things easier.
    Look for pics of my tnt wet kit for example

    The line off the fuel rail, just off the threaded area have a t fitting, one way supplies the fuel to the fuel solenoid and the other way has the fpss, see nitorus install pics.

    Please, don't take this the wrong way but I'm just not overly thrilled with the install. I'd prefer to see it on the passenger side to make all the braided line and solenoid placement easier.

    Also, ditch the stock intake set up, it is way restrictive.

    Take a look at all the bird pics in my sig, let me know if you prefer that type of set up.
    Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
    nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
    2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
    2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet

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    • #3
      is that the nossel in the intake tubing?

      thats a no no if its a wet kit spray after the maf sensor in the tb

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      • #4
        He hasn't drilled and tapped yet
        Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
        nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
        2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
        2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet

        Comment


        • #5
          Was your install professional? It looks very nice. I am doing this all myself with no prior experience so it was a lot of guess work. Really, I should have gotten some opinions before I screwed everything down. I had just gotten it all wired up when you replied so I am really not wanting to move anything. This is a daily driver so I really want to keep the spare on me for the time being.

          When you don't like the fuel line going across the engine, is that purely aesthetic, or is it hurting something? The install looks very sloppy, I will be the first one to say that, but it works.

          Thank you very much for your advice, I really appreciate it. It's just a little too late. At the moment I do not have the time to redo everything, but maybe over spring break or something I can redo it all.

          I still have not drilled and tapped the TB yet, but the solenoids are all working correctly. I got all my TR6's in today and I have scratched up arms and hands to prove it :D

          The only things left to do now are blowdown tube, purge lines, tidy up the wiring a little, and fill the bottle. [img]graemlins/burnout.gif[/img]

          Comment


          • #6
            Well hot fuel isnt more effiecnt and can cause KR whice can really hurt a motor
            <b><a href=\"http://www.sick-sixx.com\" target=\"_blank\">SICK-SIXX MEMBER</a></b><br />NA 14.345 with a 1.863 60 foot<br />Nitrous 13.03@99.5 with a 1.63 60 foot<br /><br />2000 Camaro 3.8L A4: USE TO HAVE Comp Cam 210/220 .535/.547 113lsa 111 I/C, Port and Polished Heads, NX Wet Kit 100 Shot, CPRA made by CP, RK Sport Headers

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            • #7
              Hey,

              Im not sure about your routing of the nitrous line from the rear to the front either. Running it over the muffler will expose it to alot fo heat. Now, the point of a purge is to get LIQUID nitrous to the solenoid, however, when you heat it up like that, its gonna turn into a gas.

              Also, your fuel line over the engine, liek others have said, is a bad idea. Ever hear of vapor lock on carb cars? Thats what your gonna get.
              1979 Z28 Camaro, 1 of 10,000 Factory 4 speeds. <br />1994 Camaro Sport Coupe, M5<br />Best ET: 15.31@91.5 (25 hp NOS)

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              • #8
                <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by camaro28:
                Hey,

                Im not sure about your routing of the nitrous line from the rear to the front either. Running it over the muffler will expose it to alot fo heat. Now, the point of a purge is to get LIQUID nitrous to the solenoid, however, when you heat it up like that, its gonna turn into a gas.

                Also, your fuel line over the engine, liek others have said, is a bad idea. Ever hear of vapor lock on carb cars? Thats what your gonna get.
                <hr></blockquote>

                I hate to disagree with you, but som of this is wrong. As soon as the nitrous elaves the bottle, it is in a much more low pressure place, and is already in the gas state. Try this, after you opn the bottle and purge (or not purge doesn't matter really), close the bottle back and unhook the feed line. What spews everywhere, gas or liquid? It is gas in the braided lines. I agree running the fee lines near high heat sources is a bad idea, you want it cool. As for vapor lock on carbed cars....his car is fuel injected, and I don't see it getting vapor locked because of his install, ever.
                <a href=\"http://www.fullthrottlev6.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.fullthrottlev6.com</a> THE SOURCE!

                Comment


                • #9
                  I like the nitrous line running on the driver side.. very easy to just follow the fuel lines up. This is how my setup was (which I sold to SkAchilles). I also would reccommend moving the fuel solenoid though. I had my nitrous solenoids in the same place as yours, but I put the fuel solenoid on the opposite side of the engine bay, in front of the battery. That setup actually looked pretty good as the two lines going to the nozzle came from opposite ends.

                  [ January 27, 2003: Message edited by: Skinny ]</p>
                  -<i>Travis</i><br /><b>99 Trans Am, Pewter, A4</b> Forged, stalled, and cammed<br /><b>85 Buick Regal WH1 T-Type</b> It\'d be cool if it ran...<br /><b>94 Camaro 3.4, Teal, M5</b> The daily beater

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                  • #10
                    Well, fuel line straight over a hot engine:
                    performance, hot fuel isn't as good for performance
                    Looks, kinda looks sloppy, but if it works then that is all that counts (my car is built for sheer perf, not looks, I have made some short cuts so I do understand)
                    I've had my car catch on fire so avoiding fuel over the engine is something that I would avoid [img]smile.gif[/img]
                    As for liquid and gas in the braided lines, well, nitrous is liquid in the bottle. Normally the nitrous in the braided line will be in a gaseous state. If the lines are routed away from heat then when you hit the purge it allows the liquid to approach the solenoid for a harder hit.
                    That is why racer's hit a purge at the beginning of their run.
                    If you sit there and idle for a while after purging then the nitrous will turn from liquid to gas very quickly
                    Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
                    nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
                    2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
                    2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      The fuel line is pretty far above the engine. http://www.skachilles.com/car/fuelline.jpg Its much further than the fuel rails are, and that is where the fuel is coming from, so isn't it already hot? As for the nitrous line, after driving, I have felt the line and it really doesn't warm up much. It's not like it is touching the muffler, it is about 5-6 inches above it.

                      I really am not concerned with how it looks, just that it works and I did it all myself. It's all wired up and running besides the bottle heater, but that isn't something I have to do right away. Thank you for all the comments on the install.

                      So, is the nitrous gas or liquid in the lines if you purge? Seems to be conflicting opinions on this one.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by SkAchilles:
                        So, is the nitrous gas or liquid in the lines if you purge? Seems to be conflicting opinions on this one.<hr></blockquote>
                        If you purge with a full bottle and good psi you should see a minimum of 1-2 inch white cloud coming out.
                        Colder and more humid weather makes the nitrous cloud MUCH bigger (mine has seen 20+ feet)
                        That is the liquid in the line turning to a gaseous state.

                        If you let the car sit there with nitrous in the braided lines then it turns to a gaseous state.

                        I'm just not thrilled with the lines going form one side of the engine bay to the other
                        Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
                        nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
                        2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
                        2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet

                        Comment

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