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  • Is there a ready hot wire for bottle heater on our cars?

    I ordered my bottle heater today, and was just wondering if we already have a switched hot wire back there in the spare tire well to power the thing... That is a large enough gauge.

    I did a search on here, and no luck...

    I can probe them and find out, but figured if someone already knew, I would just ask, and save myself from re-inventing that wheel.

    p.s. I got a couple of smaller jets ordered too, so I can start spraying again, I drilled my original one out too much. So I'm about to be happy with my nitrous again!! (happy by nitrousing the car that is, in case anybody was getting the wrong idea from that remark...) :D
    \'98 A4 Camaro v6-&gt;v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>

  • #2
    I used that wire for a while but i dont think it is good enghough cause sometimes the warmer would work and sometimes it wouldnt maybe it was just the way i wired it
    <b><a href=\"http://www.sick-sixx.com\" target=\"_blank\">SICK-SIXX MEMBER</a></b><br />NA 14.345 with a 1.863 60 foot<br />Nitrous 13.03@99.5 with a 1.63 60 foot<br /><br />2000 Camaro 3.8L A4: USE TO HAVE Comp Cam 210/220 .535/.547 113lsa 111 I/C, Port and Polished Heads, NX Wet Kit 100 Shot, CPRA made by CP, RK Sport Headers

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    • #3
      I don't think there is.I had to run mine from the back of the radio.Mine was a fairly small gauge 16g I think.You need to put a bigger guage(12g) on the constant power that goes to your bottle heater relay, thats were your power comes from. ;) [img]smile.gif[/img]
      2000 Navy Blue Firebird <br />3.8 A4 Y87<br />Member of the MTFBA (Middle Tennessee F-Body Association)<br />Factory dual exhaust,Pontiac Decal on w/s Cutout,A/F Ratio & FP guages<br />K&N Filter Taylor Spiro-Pro plug wires and NGK TR6\'s<br />Whisper lid,NX Wet 50 shot<br />Hotchkis LCA\'s & Panhard,Michelin Pilot XGT Z4 245/50ZR16<br />SLP Strut Tower Brace<br />NA 1/4-15.132@89.29 2.194 60\'<br />N20 1/4-14.174@98.04 2.228 60\'<br />F-Body Gathering 5 Trophy Winner

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      • #4
        You COULD wire it into your amp's power supply if you wanted to, that is IF you have an aftermarket stereo system in your car. Don't use th remote wire, it'll only warm your bottle when the radio is on, but instead the main one that feeds your amp...PLEASE if you do this, use a relay to control the current, otherwise you'll burn up your wires and blanket! I'd just run a wire to the front like your radio, or cigarette lighter.
        <a href=\"http://www.fullthrottlev6.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.fullthrottlev6.com</a> THE SOURCE!

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        • #5
          Eh, electrical stuff.
          Sorry man, I know nothing about it.
          I just catch things on fire and hurt myself.
          Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
          nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
          2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
          2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet

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          • #6
            There's two wires that supply power to the heater, one is the remote wire so that the heater only works when the key is on so you don't forget about and come back and have your battery dead. The other wire supplies the power that runs the heater, this wire should be hooked up directly to the battery because it draws alot of amps and I don't think you'd like to start a fire.
            91 Firebird 3.1<br />SC12 Supercharger<br />LSD w/ 3.73s<br />NOS 80hp wet shot<br />AKA: Phoenix<br />\"If Speed Kills...Consider Me Dead.\"

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            • #7
              Thanks for all the feedback everyone!

              If I do find the wires I need, I'll post back.

              Sounds like I'll probably just need to run my own though.

              Since there are some other wires back there in the stock harness, I think for a cd changer, amp, etc, I might get lucky. Since neither of those things are installed.
              \'98 A4 Camaro v6-&gt;v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>

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              • #8
                <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by North Cali Autocrosser:
                The other wire supplies the power that runs the heater, this wire should be hooked up directly to the battery because it draws alot of amps and I don't think you'd like to start a fire.<hr></blockquote>


                I gotta ask what you mean here!? Why would you run almost anything straight to the battery so it DOES have more current flowing in it? 500A can't be good for a heater. Use a relay to simmer it down some, or use a small current source like your stereo's power wire.
                <a href=\"http://www.fullthrottlev6.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.fullthrottlev6.com</a> THE SOURCE!

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                • #9
                  You must have a relay.From the relay you run a ground,remote power,constant power(from battery) and one wire goes to your heater.The other wire from the heater is also a ground. [img]smile.gif[/img]

                  [ February 03, 2003: Message edited by: Barry ]</p>
                  2000 Navy Blue Firebird <br />3.8 A4 Y87<br />Member of the MTFBA (Middle Tennessee F-Body Association)<br />Factory dual exhaust,Pontiac Decal on w/s Cutout,A/F Ratio & FP guages<br />K&N Filter Taylor Spiro-Pro plug wires and NGK TR6\'s<br />Whisper lid,NX Wet 50 shot<br />Hotchkis LCA\'s & Panhard,Michelin Pilot XGT Z4 245/50ZR16<br />SLP Strut Tower Brace<br />NA 1/4-15.132@89.29 2.194 60\'<br />N20 1/4-14.174@98.04 2.228 60\'<br />F-Body Gathering 5 Trophy Winner

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                  • #10
                    See #2 in this link
                    http://www.camarov6.com/cgi-bin/ulti...c&f=3&t=001038
                    Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
                    nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
                    2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
                    2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet

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                    • #11
                      James has a good point but on my install I tried running the constant power to a switched source and it was pulling too much current causing everything to short out(radio,dash lights,headlights,etc.etc.).A relay is designed for purposes like this.Just my 2 cents.
                      2000 Navy Blue Firebird <br />3.8 A4 Y87<br />Member of the MTFBA (Middle Tennessee F-Body Association)<br />Factory dual exhaust,Pontiac Decal on w/s Cutout,A/F Ratio & FP guages<br />K&N Filter Taylor Spiro-Pro plug wires and NGK TR6\'s<br />Whisper lid,NX Wet 50 shot<br />Hotchkis LCA\'s & Panhard,Michelin Pilot XGT Z4 245/50ZR16<br />SLP Strut Tower Brace<br />NA 1/4-15.132@89.29 2.194 60\'<br />N20 1/4-14.174@98.04 2.228 60\'<br />F-Body Gathering 5 Trophy Winner

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                      • #12
                        What if you were to connect your constant power supply to a separate fuse block? I have one for a DVD player that holds 6 12v fuses and can handle up to 15 amps per circuit. I have one from JCWhitney that I was hoping I could use to run to all components of the nitrous system.
                        7\"TV, DVD player, WW ground effects<br />2800 stall, aluminum DS, NX wet kit<br />15.39 (G-tech) stock w/3.42 LSD

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                        • #13
                          Sorry man, I dunno electrical questions, anyone else??
                          Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
                          nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
                          2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
                          2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Ok, if you run a wire straight from the battery inside your car...if you plan to run anything electrical, you will need a relay. If you run it thru a fuse block, that's good thinking, but they will pop INSTANTLY. Your battery oputs out WAY too many amps of current for most electrical devises in your car. A relay takes that big current source, and makes it a more managle smaller source, perfect for your radio, bottle heater, window switch, etc. A fuse doesn't make it possible to run something straight to your battery..IE: a 20A fuse. As soon as 21 amps run thru that fuse, it is designed to pop. That's what fuses are for, to protect your electrical equipment. USE A RELAY, or use an already low current source like the power wire to your radio, or cigarette lighter.
                            <a href=\"http://www.fullthrottlev6.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.fullthrottlev6.com</a> THE SOURCE!

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                            • #15
                              Relay is the best bet.It would take forever to heat your bottle pulling from a source other than straight from your battery.That is why most N20 system manufacturers send relays with there bottle heaters and selinoids.

                              :cool: :D
                              2000 Navy Blue Firebird <br />3.8 A4 Y87<br />Member of the MTFBA (Middle Tennessee F-Body Association)<br />Factory dual exhaust,Pontiac Decal on w/s Cutout,A/F Ratio & FP guages<br />K&N Filter Taylor Spiro-Pro plug wires and NGK TR6\'s<br />Whisper lid,NX Wet 50 shot<br />Hotchkis LCA\'s & Panhard,Michelin Pilot XGT Z4 245/50ZR16<br />SLP Strut Tower Brace<br />NA 1/4-15.132@89.29 2.194 60\'<br />N20 1/4-14.174@98.04 2.228 60\'<br />F-Body Gathering 5 Trophy Winner

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