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  • My install...few questions

    Ok here's how it goes so far. The bottle is in the wheelwell where the spare tire once was. The brackets aren't secured to the ground but the thing is so heavy and it slides in so nicely that it still sits at about 15* angle. I drilled a hole in the sidewall of this compartment and ran the line out and through the hole I drilled. I still need a blowdown tube though.

    Next part: Ran the line and zip tied it off under the car, run closest to the brake lines if anything. The only part I'm worried about on there is the braided steel line sits on top of the heatshield over the cat. Is this heatshield going to get too hot, or would the line touching it not be effected (I hope). I don't want to have warm fuel, and the pressure expansion could hurt the solenoid if the line gets too hot...I'm just not sure how well the heatshield insulates.

    Then it comes up the engine compartment and that's where I stopped for now. I don't want to get into the solenoids just yet. I am not spraying anything until I install a blowdown tube, FPSS, and window switch. I have a WOT switch now that I know needs to be installed inline with the arm switch and the relay, but what does the arm on the WOT switch do? My TB has an electronic throttle with no linkage...do I need a Throttle position switch to read the voltage signal instead?

    Also, does anyone have a diagram for wiring the relay? I know what wires need to go into it, but I'm not sure which terminals the wires connect to.

    Thanks for the help this far whoever responds, I need it. I wish I had some pictures. I'll take some when it's "finished" but before I use a drop.

    BTW: Iknow if sparks touch the braided line then the teflon coating is compromised so it's no good, but what if I pulled it through a peice of metal and the metal rubbed on the braided line, would that also remove the teflon coating like using a fork in a teflon pan. There were no sparks made but should I be concerned about a nitrous leak?

    [ March 04, 2003: Message edited by: 6shooter ]</p>
    7\"TV, DVD player, WW ground effects<br />2800 stall, aluminum DS, NX wet kit<br />15.39 (G-tech) stock w/3.42 LSD

  • #2
    <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by 6shooter:
    ...The only part I'm worried about on there is the braided steel line sits on top of the heatshield over the cat.

    ...I have a WOT switch now that I know needs to be installed inline with the arm switch and the relay, but what does the arm on the WOT switch do? My TB has an electronic throttle with no linkage...do I need a Throttle position switch to read the voltage signal instead?

    ...what if I pulled it through a peice of metal and the metal rubbed on the braided line, would that also remove the teflon coating like using a fork in a teflon pan. There were no sparks made but should I be concerned about a nitrous leak?
    <hr></blockquote>

    I would try to get the line so it is not touching the heatshield. Tie it up a little higher or something if you can. You might be ok, but an air gap would be even better.

    The arm on the WOT switch... You mean the arm that sticks out of the switch? That is the handle of the switch. Or do you mean what is the function of the WOT switch, as in it is armed? (the WOT switch allows the nitrous solenoid to open only when you are at WOT, in addition to having the arming switch turned on) If you use it on a throttle by wire car, you will have to figure out how to get it to activate off the throttle, or connect it to your gas pedal.

    I haven't seen a throttle position switch, but I have heard people ask about them. Just don't know on this one for sure... It would be a little cleaner install if you could find one.

    You should be ok on pulling the braided line through the metal hole, as long as you didn't cut or tear the braiding.
    \'98 A4 Camaro v6-&gt;v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>

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    • #3
      Well, TNT and I think NX and maybe another company or so make an electronic TPS for our cars. It is pretty expensive. What I did and have seen others in your position do is mopunt your WOT switch under your gas pedal. Kind of a tricky thing to get it just right, but can be done for sure.
      <a href=\"http://www.fullthrottlev6.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.fullthrottlev6.com</a> THE SOURCE!

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      • #4
        I would think the braided line is o.k. too. I'm just going to check for leaks when the bottle is filled.

        I'm going to cover the top of the CAT's heatshield in a layer of heat protective coating to insulate heat from the nitrous line.

        I am kind of skeptical about the WOT switch under the gas pedal, just because I may not have it at WOT and it will still depress the lever enough to spray. For example if I spray without a WOT switch, the nitrous will spray the second I hit the gas pedal? And when will it stop. I'm still using a FPSS and a window switch. Without the WOT, It would still spray between 3K and 6K RPMs (provided that window corresponds to the pills in the window switch) whether I'm at wide open throttle or not? How dangerous is this and what would you recommend. This WOT issue is the only other question I'm having about the install.

        Also anyone know where to find the red covered aircraft switches...I've seen them in Jegs or JCWhitney but they were like $30 each.
        7\"TV, DVD player, WW ground effects<br />2800 stall, aluminum DS, NX wet kit<br />15.39 (G-tech) stock w/3.42 LSD

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        • #5
          The wot switch needs to be adjusted so it only closes when you are truly at wot. If you let off between gears, but the rpms don't drop below 3k, the nitrous will still be flowing full blast into the intake tubing. Then when you open the throttle back up, it will probably bog and die, or you could get an intake backfire or blown headgasket.

          I saw a tps switch on tbyrne or thunderracing this morning, that would be the ideal setup, although there are people who have figure out how to mount the switch correctly under the pedal.

          The only other thing that comes to mind for the covered switches would be a military surplus store, or maybe Radio Shack...
          \'98 A4 Camaro v6-&gt;v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>

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          • #6
            thanks alot John
            7\"TV, DVD player, WW ground effects<br />2800 stall, aluminum DS, NX wet kit<br />15.39 (G-tech) stock w/3.42 LSD

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            • #7
              <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by 6shooter:
              thanks alot John<hr></blockquote>

              You're welcome!

              I just realized I didn't exactly answer part of your earlier question. Although you probably figured it out from what I said earlier anyway.

              If you don't have a wot switch, then if you hit the arming switch and you're above 3000 rpms, you'll be spraying immediately. Or if you are armed, as soon as you get above 3000 rpms you'll start spraying, even if you are just holding the gas pedal down a little bit.

              The first time you hit it, you are really going to like it!! (and the times after that too...)
              :D
              \'98 A4 Camaro v6-&gt;v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>

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              • #8
                The braided line should NOT be on top of ANY part of your exhaust. You will run into TOO many problems in the future.

                Reroute it, trust me.

                Don't bother heat wrapping it, I've tried this in the past and run into problems


                TNT has a WOT switch for Non calbe electronic throttle bodied car's like yours.
                Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
                nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
                2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
                2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet

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