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  • am i a genius or not

    About a month ago i made a post saying i wanted some pictures of wot switches and didn't really find what i was looking for. Well i decided to research farther and came up with a solution......i went to a local electrical shop and tossed a few ideas at him and he said i got what you need for only 11 bucks, so he showed me a module that has an input of 4-5 volts(tps output wire) and an output of 12 volts(nos solenoid). Genius or not you tell me i didn't buy it yet? [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/thumbsdown.gif[/img]
    Xnenon headlight conversion<br />k&n cold air induction<br />85 shot of nitrous (NOS)<br />255 lph walbro fuel pump<br />80 series flowmaster<br />z rated 255/50\'s<br />misc. auto meter tach and a-pillar

  • #2
    If it's rated to handle the amp draw of the solenoid, sounds like it would work fine... [img]smile.gif[/img]

    As long as your tps is putting out the exact voltage this thing expects.

    Does it output the 12v only if the input hits 5v, or does it just step up the input no matter what. For instance, if the tps is at 2.5v, will this thing be putting out 6v to the solenoid?
    \'98 A4 Camaro v6-&gt;v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>

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    • #3
      something tells me this wont work that easily ;)

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      • #4
        If you think about it like a relay it's pretty basic, when there is anywhere from 4-5 volts (which is anywhere from three quater throttle to full) it will make the connection and let 12 volts through, no sooner. Good point about the amps i need to check, thanks.
        Xnenon headlight conversion<br />k&n cold air induction<br />85 shot of nitrous (NOS)<br />255 lph walbro fuel pump<br />80 series flowmaster<br />z rated 255/50\'s<br />misc. auto meter tach and a-pillar

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        • #5
          is it a step digital switch? like it will output zero until it senses a voltage of ~5V(WOT)? or does it output analog? thats the issue with it working.

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          • #6
            it's digital meaning the connection isnt closed between the 5 volt source(tps) and 12 volt source(battery)unless there is 5 volts. what it does is you plug 12 volt source into one side and 5 volt source into the other and when and only when it hits 5 volts it closes the link making a connection to let 12 volts through to an output slot.
            Xnenon headlight conversion<br />k&n cold air induction<br />85 shot of nitrous (NOS)<br />255 lph walbro fuel pump<br />80 series flowmaster<br />z rated 255/50\'s<br />misc. auto meter tach and a-pillar

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            • #7
              Just get a roller switch from the Shack, and place it on the metal behind the gas pedal, so that it will engage whenever you have the pedal floored.

              DK

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              • #8
                &lt;--- me after all this electrical talk
                Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
                nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
                2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
                2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet

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                • #9
                  <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by 12secondv6:
                  me after all this electrical talk<hr></blockquote>

                  and what was your excuse before the electrical talk... [img]smile.gif[/img]

                  (like I should talk, I still have not wired my bap or my bottle heater!)
                  \'98 A4 Camaro v6-&gt;v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>

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                  • #10
                    <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by John_D.:


                    and what was your excuse before the electrical talk... [img]smile.gif[/img]

                    (like I should talk, I still have not wired my bap or my bottle heater!)
                    <hr></blockquote>
                    [img]graemlins/rofl.gif[/img]
                    Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
                    nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
                    2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
                    2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      i already have a microswitch that works but makes my throttle stick wide open because the circle that the cable hooks into, gets stuck on the way back.
                      Xnenon headlight conversion<br />k&n cold air induction<br />85 shot of nitrous (NOS)<br />255 lph walbro fuel pump<br />80 series flowmaster<br />z rated 255/50\'s<br />misc. auto meter tach and a-pillar

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by nosv6:
                        i already have a microswitch that works but makes my throttle stick wide open because the circle that the cable hooks into, gets stuck on the way back.<hr></blockquote>


                        Um, stuck throttle WOT would be bad.
                        I think you may want to change that
                        Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
                        nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
                        2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
                        2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Why not just use a 5V relay? They sell them at Radio Shack, you'd use the 5V from the TPS sensor to transmit a 12V signal to the relay to activate the solenoids.

                          Another good place to mount a WOT switch is on the steering shaft under the dash, so the pedal hits it. That's where mine was.

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                          • #14
                            Just move around the WOT switch so it doesn't get stuck, if others have done it, you can do it. Especially if your a genius.

                            I would definately get a Flux Capacitator though... Can't live without one of those.
                            :D
                            1997 Chevrolet Camaro v6 - 13.8@104MPH
                            1997 Dodge Viper GTS

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                            • #15
                              the thing is i use to have it hooked up and it worked ok but i swapped motors and for some reason it just wont line up anymore, and i can't figure out how to take the cables out of that metal bracket. besides using a relay or this module im talking about would be a much cleaner install and is cheaper than the microswitch and i thought it was a good idea.
                              Xnenon headlight conversion<br />k&n cold air induction<br />85 shot of nitrous (NOS)<br />255 lph walbro fuel pump<br />80 series flowmaster<br />z rated 255/50\'s<br />misc. auto meter tach and a-pillar

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