About a month ago i made a post saying i wanted some pictures of wot switches and didn't really find what i was looking for. Well i decided to research farther and came up with a solution......i went to a local electrical shop and tossed a few ideas at him and he said i got what you need for only 11 bucks, so he showed me a module that has an input of 4-5 volts(tps output wire) and an output of 12 volts(nos solenoid). Genius or not you tell me i didn't buy it yet? [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/thumbsdown.gif[/img]
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am i a genius or not
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am i a genius or not
Xnenon headlight conversion<br />k&n cold air induction<br />85 shot of nitrous (NOS)<br />255 lph walbro fuel pump<br />80 series flowmaster<br />z rated 255/50\'s<br />misc. auto meter tach and a-pillarTags: None
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If it's rated to handle the amp draw of the solenoid, sounds like it would work fine... [img]smile.gif[/img]
As long as your tps is putting out the exact voltage this thing expects.
Does it output the 12v only if the input hits 5v, or does it just step up the input no matter what. For instance, if the tps is at 2.5v, will this thing be putting out 6v to the solenoid?\'98 A4 Camaro v6->v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>
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If you think about it like a relay it's pretty basic, when there is anywhere from 4-5 volts (which is anywhere from three quater throttle to full) it will make the connection and let 12 volts through, no sooner. Good point about the amps i need to check, thanks.Xnenon headlight conversion<br />k&n cold air induction<br />85 shot of nitrous (NOS)<br />255 lph walbro fuel pump<br />80 series flowmaster<br />z rated 255/50\'s<br />misc. auto meter tach and a-pillar
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it's digital meaning the connection isnt closed between the 5 volt source(tps) and 12 volt source(battery)unless there is 5 volts. what it does is you plug 12 volt source into one side and 5 volt source into the other and when and only when it hits 5 volts it closes the link making a connection to let 12 volts through to an output slot.Xnenon headlight conversion<br />k&n cold air induction<br />85 shot of nitrous (NOS)<br />255 lph walbro fuel pump<br />80 series flowmaster<br />z rated 255/50\'s<br />misc. auto meter tach and a-pillar
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by 12secondv6:
me after all this electrical talk<hr></blockquote>
and what was your excuse before the electrical talk... [img]smile.gif[/img]
(like I should talk, I still have not wired my bap or my bottle heater!)\'98 A4 Camaro v6->v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by John_D.:
and what was your excuse before the electrical talk... [img]smile.gif[/img]
(like I should talk, I still have not wired my bap or my bottle heater!)<hr></blockquote>
[img]graemlins/rofl.gif[/img]Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet
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i already have a microswitch that works but makes my throttle stick wide open because the circle that the cable hooks into, gets stuck on the way back.Xnenon headlight conversion<br />k&n cold air induction<br />85 shot of nitrous (NOS)<br />255 lph walbro fuel pump<br />80 series flowmaster<br />z rated 255/50\'s<br />misc. auto meter tach and a-pillar
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by nosv6:
i already have a microswitch that works but makes my throttle stick wide open because the circle that the cable hooks into, gets stuck on the way back.<hr></blockquote>
Um, stuck throttle WOT would be bad.
I think you may want to change thatRace car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet
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Why not just use a 5V relay? They sell them at Radio Shack, you'd use the 5V from the TPS sensor to transmit a 12V signal to the relay to activate the solenoids.
Another good place to mount a WOT switch is on the steering shaft under the dash, so the pedal hits it. That's where mine was.
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the thing is i use to have it hooked up and it worked ok but i swapped motors and for some reason it just wont line up anymore, and i can't figure out how to take the cables out of that metal bracket. besides using a relay or this module im talking about would be a much cleaner install and is cheaper than the microswitch and i thought it was a good idea.Xnenon headlight conversion<br />k&n cold air induction<br />85 shot of nitrous (NOS)<br />255 lph walbro fuel pump<br />80 series flowmaster<br />z rated 255/50\'s<br />misc. auto meter tach and a-pillar
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