3.8 M5 1997 is what I have, I need to know if I should get the harlen window switch or the NOS RPM activated switch?
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NOS RPM or Harlen Window
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i like my harlan window switch
and this is the link to my wiring diagramhttp://www.geocities.com/motorhead69/window.html<b>Black 1996 Firebird</b><br /><b>Newest Edition: Harlan Window Switch</b><br />Nitrous Express Kit,ASCD big block hood, SLP Loudmouth, CATCO hi-flow cat, CAI, -Maf, LSD, Flameball Shifter<br /><b>Best N/A 1/4 in</b> 15.216 @ 89.82 <b>Best N2O 1/4 in</b> 14.352 @ 97.46 <--w/clutch slippage<br /><a href=\"http://www.geocities.com/motorhead69/\" target=\"_blank\">My homepage</a><br /><b>AIM:</b>MotorHead75068 <b>YIM:</b>MotorHead69
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No offense MotorHead, but I really don't like the way you have that wired! The pourpose of the Harlen is to supply the ground to the solenoids when you get to that certain RPM. Just like that SilverV62000 guy (messed up his name I'm sure) complained about...He said there was that delay after he had hit the master arming switch, and after 3000 rpms before the juice hit. IT'S BECAUSE YOU ARE RUNNING IT WRONG. The master arm switch is meant to be the total and complete switch for the juice. If it isn't armed then nothing happens. The harlen is just a safety switch, it operates AFTER the master switch.
The way yall have it run, your master doesn't send power until the window switch is set...doesn't make sense why yall do that. Somebody said in the thread james gave the link for "The window switch can only handle .5 amps of current so you can't ground a solenoid through it or anything" BS. A ground is a ground. You should run it so that after your master switch has power, your wide open throttle switch sends through 12V, and then your FPSS is good and sends through 12V, and THEN your window switch is met, is gives your solenoids the ground they need to fire. Sometime when I have more time at the EE lab, I'll draw a schematic for this, but I had to vent. People complain that there's an unneccesary delay before it hits, yet they won't fix the way it's wired to avoid that delay. /end rant/<a href=\"http://www.fullthrottlev6.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.fullthrottlev6.com</a> THE SOURCE!
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you know there is no delay w/mine it's quite simple... nitrous and racing is for the stip. I arm the switch before staging there is absolutly no delay.
So to everyone out there if your gonna street race and use nitrous only as a backup (ie. "oh know this honda is beating me", flip master switch, "okay i can beat him now") then don't use my schematic to wire your window switch.
as for using a relay to ground solenoids that is what harlan says in his instructions.
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>DO NOT try and directly ground external lights or solenoids with the module, you will fry it!<hr></blockquote><b>Black 1996 Firebird</b><br /><b>Newest Edition: Harlan Window Switch</b><br />Nitrous Express Kit,ASCD big block hood, SLP Loudmouth, CATCO hi-flow cat, CAI, -Maf, LSD, Flameball Shifter<br /><b>Best N/A 1/4 in</b> 15.216 @ 89.82 <b>Best N2O 1/4 in</b> 14.352 @ 97.46 <--w/clutch slippage<br /><a href=\"http://www.geocities.com/motorhead69/\" target=\"_blank\">My homepage</a><br /><b>AIM:</b>MotorHead75068 <b>YIM:</b>MotorHead69
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It's no coincidence that the solenoids can only handle a minimal amount of current, and that the window switch is the same. As long as your power wire going to the solenoids is on a relay to reduce the current hitting them, the harlen switch makes for a great way to ground them at a certain RPM. Sorry for my rant, if yours doesn't have a delay, then good. But that other guy griped about it for days, and he couldn't realize that it was all in his wiring. Happy juicing!<a href=\"http://www.fullthrottlev6.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.fullthrottlev6.com</a> THE SOURCE!
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