Looking into N20

[L32Projekt]

What needs to be checked when installing N20 on a 3.4l Camaro in regards to the fuel and ignition system to make sure everything is running at peak efficiency to avoid detonation due to lean conditions?

My guess:

Fuel system:
In-tank fuel pump
Fuel filter
Fuel lines (no kinks, deterioration, splits)
FPU
Injectors (clean, proper resistances)

Ignition system:
Alternator
Grounds
Coils
Wires
Plugs (New, one heat range colder, gapped between .030 and .035”)

Any other ideas? Before installing a N20 system, I’ll put on a few boltons, like CAI, pulleys, a LSD and 3.42s. Using a dry kit (NOS-5175) I plan on running a 50 shot at first for a few bottles, to make sure I don’t turn a small problem into a huge one, and slowly making progress to a 75 shot. Eventually I’ll get an MSD DIS-4, and new coils. Opinions?

Jon

[12secondv6]

Try a search cause it has been discussed 1 million times.

I tried to get the msd dis 4 to work and the car died :( I run stock ignition

[L32Projekt]

Any ideas on why the MSD DIS-4 didn't work for you? Do you not recommend an upgrade to the ignition system, aside from good maintenance? About my earlier question, I was wondering if I were on the right track. I've done searches, thank you. I knew nothing about nitrous before doing so, and now I know a marginal amount. At least I didn't come in here asking "Can my car take a 200 shot of NNNAAAAAWWWWWWZZZZZ?!!!?!?!?"

LOL

Jon

[L32Projekt]

I was going to post a new topic, but want to keep my posts in one location:

I was wondering about the best bottle mounting position. Since our trunks don’t accommodate the recommended mounting position, what’s the next best position? I was contemplating mounting the bottle upside down with the siphon tube removed on the driver’s side of the trunk. Also, how would the blow down tube mount in this case? I haven’t seen pictures of this type of install yet, so I wouldn’t know how it looks.

Next question: What RPM do we normally set our N20 system to activate? I know that setting the activation RPM too low causes some nasty stuff because the engine speed is too low, causing excessive cylinder pressure. Not sure what exactly goes on, but I guess at higher RPMs, the pressure doesn’t stay latent in the cylinder as long, reducing BMEP? Anyone else think that some of these 3.4s with an 85 dry shot of N20 went because of too low of an activation RPM?

Next question: When it comes to jetting the NOS-5175 system, how much flexibility do we have? What are the different jet sizes available? Thanks in advance.

Jon

[1998silverbird]

The only real upgrade for ignition is colder plugs and good wires.. You dont have to retard the timing while spraying a small shot.. on the street I spray about 3200 rpms.. on the dyno 3500rpms.. If you spray below 3000 I have seen some nasty backfires.. I have mine on WOT switch.. I have a 255lbhr walbro fuel pump, 8mm wires, and NGK plugs.. I change my oil every 3000 miles and with it my fuel filter just to be safe!! I have a les restritive exaust and ram air induction.. Only use 93 octane while spraying.. Dont use octane boosters and spray between 950- 1150 psi for optimal power..As for bottle mounting.. Mine is in my back passanger seat until the N20 Cup holder gauge is hooked up..

[ July 23, 2003: Message edited by: 1998silverbird ]</p>